Dealer says it needs repairs, independent mechanic says no (2016 CX-5)

Well good morning sir. My apologies for questioning your temporal location and not being clear. I see now that I neglected to mention using a grease needle to administer the 5 or 6 shots of grease right through the boot. One is probably best to use polyurea grease to ensure compatibility with the original grease in sealed joints.
With 16 zerks on your ride I'd be preaching to the choir about attending to lubrication. Speaking of trucks, I remember asking co-workers if they ever dropped the plastic underbody panel(s) on their (relatively new) pickup's to lube the front driveline. They weren't aware of any lube points there and had their oil changed somewhere. Don't know if they ever did get greased.
 
Instead of the grease needle through the boots, did you consider giving those joints a good greasing before sealing up the rips in the boots?

Most of the 16 zerks on my truck are easy to get at, 6 are not. Those 6 require contortions and an extended flex hose on the grease gun, and gloves. lol
 
Instead of the grease needle through the boots, did you consider giving those joints a good greasing before sealing up the rips in the boots?

Most of the 16 zerks on my truck are easy to get at, 6 are not. Those 6 require contortions and an extended flex hose on the grease gun, and gloves. lol
Decided against greasing before sealing because I cleaned the inner surface of the 'lips' of the crack (CRC non residue electronic cleaner + Q-tip) and applied sealer there. Then covered with sealant externally. Really globbed it on. Didn't want excess grease making the job more difficult.
If you've never used the Permatex Adhesive Sealant it's good to have a tube on hand. The stuff is considerably stronger than regular RTV and sticks well. I've used it to repair small holes in CV boots (and it held), seal around car windows, reattach body side molding. Applied it to fastener threads to protect against corrosion and keep a nut from backing off. The list goes on.


The last tube I got was at Walmart (good price) instead of the auto parts store and the package number was 75150 but the tube was marked 81158, same as in the Permatex ad. Maybe Walmart has their own number.

Your use of the word 'contortions' exactly describes what I went through to grease the replacement tie rod ends on a previous vehicle at every oil change. Never again, that's why I got sealed units for the CX-5. It would have been less painful to remove the wheel to get access but that wasn't going to happen.
 
If those were mine, I'd replace all of the joints with cracked boots and call myself lucky they did not wear until the steering got loose or it began to wobble.
 
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