CX-5 Collision repair advice

Hello,

My 2020 CX-5 was hit by another vehicle while parked on the street. The body doesn't look affected but the car hit my wheel with enough force to move my car forward a couple feet and slant the vehicle diagonally into the curb. The left wheel was impacted causing both wheels to over extend clockwise horizontally (about 70-80 degree angle) and the left side mirror was smashed and is not responding. I have not attempted to drive the car (clearly not safe) but when I attempted to turn the steering wheel or move the car slightly forward or back there was a loud metal on metal clacking sound and pressure exhaust sound.

My question is - (and I know this is limited information) can this kind of impact cause frame damage and/or long term suspension/alignment/safety issues? I'm going to have the car inspected for insurance purposes and want to get some understanding of what the potential damage to the vehicle could be. Would this most likely be determined as totaled or repairable? My main concern is long term safety issues even after being repaired as a result of this. I just bought this car new!

Thanks
 
Hello,

My 2020 CX-5 was hit by another vehicle while parked on the street. The body doesn't look affected but the car hit my wheel with enough force to move my car forward a couple feet and slant the vehicle diagonally into the curb. The left wheel was impacted causing both wheels to over extend clockwise horizontally (about 70-80 degree angle) and the left side mirror was smashed and is not responding. I have not attempted to drive the car (clearly not safe) but when I attempted to turn the steering wheel or move the car slightly forward or back there was a loud metal on metal clacking sound and pressure exhaust sound.

My question is - (and I know this is limited information) can this kind of impact cause frame damage and/or long term suspension/alignment/safety issues? I'm going to have the car inspected for insurance purposes and want to get some understanding of what the potential damage to the vehicle could be. Would this most likely be determined as totaled or repairable? My main concern is long term safety issues even after being repaired as a result of this. I just bought this car new!

Thanks
Main frame damage is very unlikely. Most likely not gonna be totalled.

Maybe the A-arm(control arm) might be damaged or some suspension/steering and wheel components might be damaged.
Damages could be control arm, ball joints, tie rods, steering knuckles and if hit hard enough maybe the transmission too.
When younger, during a winter storm, and sliding into a curb on ice at a fairly good speed, I was lucky enough to only need to replace a control arm and cv joints. Nothing like DIY work in sub zero freezing temperatures.
Car drove fine for few years after that until it's demise.
It really depends on how hard your car was hit and at what angle and speed the wheels hit the curb, etc.

Replacing the a-arms and whatever other suspension components may be damaged should fix the vehicle. Make sure you have a good shop that will point out to insurance company any other damages that come up after the teardown that is additional to the insurance adjuster quote.

Your transmission is probably ok but you never know. You did say the car moved a couple feet while it was parked. Did you have parking brake on? did your car leave skid marks? May have damaged the pawl or internal gearing.
Will be hard to completely check transmission if the car is currently undrivable.

If possible, have the repair shop test the transmission after the vehicle is driveable.
After the work is done, you could always take it to AAMCO for a full and complete transmission evaluation and go back to insurance company for any transmission fixes.
Again the transmission is probably ok but never hurts to have it checked out.
 
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Hello,

My 2020 CX-5 was hit by another vehicle while parked on the street. The body doesn't look affected but the car hit my wheel with enough force to move my car forward a couple feet and slant the vehicle diagonally into the curb. The left wheel was impacted causing both wheels to over extend clockwise horizontally (about 70-80 degree angle) and the left side mirror was smashed and is not responding. I have not attempted to drive the car (clearly not safe) but when I attempted to turn the steering wheel or move the car slightly forward or back there was a loud metal on metal clacking sound and pressure exhaust sound.

My question is - (and I know this is limited information) can this kind of impact cause frame damage and/or long term suspension/alignment/safety issues? I'm going to have the car inspected for insurance purposes and want to get some understanding of what the potential damage to the vehicle could be. Would this most likely be determined as totaled or repairable? My main concern is long term safety issues even after being repaired as a result of this. I just bought this car new!

Thanks
My 2020 was in a collision a few months after I bought it. There was no frame damage and it was surprisingly nowhere near being written off.
Of course, it's all situation-specific (how hard you were hit, what was hit, etc..).

Take it to a reputable (VERY IMPORTANT) shop to get it assessed. Ask around in your friends group, work peeps to see what shops are around where you are and how good of a job they do.

I've yet to find a place that does a good repair job and I've been to 3 different ones. This crash was around $15-17K repair, I can't exactly remember.

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Thanks for the input from both of you. Yeah - it's a tough call because there are clearly mechanical issues with the wheel being bent and alignment out. Accidents usually go to auto body shops, but the most important repair for my vehicle is mechanical so I'm deciding between going to auto body or mechanic. The local dealer doesn't do auto body, and the local autobody doesn't do mechanical. Leaning towards just going to dealer to make sure mechanical is done right. Thoughts?
 
Thanks for the input from both of you. Yeah - it's a tough call because there are clearly mechanical issues with the wheel being bent and alignment out. Accidents usually go to auto body shops, but the most important repair for my vehicle is mechanical so I'm deciding between going to auto body or mechanic. The local dealer doesn't do auto body, and the local autobody doesn't do mechanical. Leaning towards just going to dealer to make sure mechanical is done right. Thoughts?

Since your car is probably still under warranty, I'd take it to the dealer for repair. They should be able to handle the mechanical, then send the car to one of their trusted auto body shops. Or you can take the car to a shop of your choice after the mechanical work has been completed. You should not have to pick and choose, which is what it sounds like you think you have to do based on what you wrote (if I misinterpreted, please correct me). Your insurance should cover all repairs, even if that means multiple invoices from different shops.
 
Since your car is probably still under warranty, I'd take it to the dealer for repair. They should be able to handle the mechanical, then send the car to one of their trusted auto body shops. Or you can take the car to a shop of your choice after the mechanical work has been completed. You should not have to pick and choose, which is what it sounds like you think you have to do based on what you wrote (if I misinterpreted, please correct me). Your insurance should cover all repairs, even if that means multiple invoices from different shops.
I'm not sure what the warranty has to do with a collision repair. Otherwise, I agree. When I've had body work done over the years a dealer recommendation has not steered me wrong--the shop to which they send their own work.

It so happens in my case the local dealers did not have their own body shops. Some do and those would be at the top of the list of possibilities for me.
It's a tough call because there are clearly mechanical issues with the wheel being bent and alignment out.
In one instance, a $6,000 repair on my 2014 Sienna, a dealer recommended body shop handled that work as well as rebuilding the right side suspension, replacing a bent engine cradle, and other stuff down to running a new line to the rear window washer. The only exception was the alignment which they sent back to the dealer as the last step. I don't believe this is atypical. So, ask the dealer what they do vs. the recommended body shop. The tow may be to the body shop.
 
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I'm not sure what the warranty has to do with a collision repair. Otherwise, I agree. When I've had body work done over the years a dealer recommendation has not steered me wrong--the shop to which they send their own work to.

It so happens in my case the local dealers did not have their own body shops. Some do and those would be at the top of the list of possibilities for me.

In one instance, a $6,000 repair on my 2014 Sienna at a dealer recommended body shop handled that work as well as rebuilding the right side suspension, replacing a bent engine cradle, and other stuff down to running a new line to the rear window washer. The only exception was the alignment which they sent back to the dealer as the last step. I don't believe this is atypical. So, ask what they do.
I think the reasoning was, and this is why I use dealer body shop as well, if they have a chance to find and fix damages under insurance claim, then all should be fixed. If you have transmission problems a few months/ years after and they would try to claim it was caused by the accident and is not a warranty item, you can say "But you fixed it !!!"
 
Yes, my reasoning is exactly what Jack mentioned above.
 
I think the reasoning was, and this is why I use dealer body shop as well, if they have a chance to find and fix damages under insurance claim, then all should be fixed. If you have transmission problems a few months/ years after and they would try to claim it was caused by the accident and is not a warranty item, you can say "But you fixed it !!!"
That would be a matter to be taken up with the insurance company. If nobody touched the engine or transmission then there won't be a "But you fixed it." That's a matter of an issue overlooked. If such problems arise in a matter of years, good luck with that.

In reading the OP again, he said no evident damage to body panels or bumper, his work might be done as a mechanical repair at the dealer. If the mirror does not come pre-painted that would go to a paint shop if the dealer does not have one. Questions are to asked.
 
That would be a matter to be taken up with the insurance company. If nobody touched the engine or transmission then there won't be a "But you fixed it." That's a matter of an issue overlooked. If such problems arise in a matter of years, good luck with that.

In reading the OP again, he said no evident damage to body panels or bumper, his work might be done as a mechanical repair at the dealer. If the mirror does not come pre-painted that would go to a paint shop if the dealer does not have one. Questions are to asked.
It sets up the perfect trifecta lawsuit. Your car is damaged . They fix some suspension components , bodywork, etc. under the insurance claim

Then a year or two later you have engine or tranny problems. Dealer and Mazda try to claim it was due to the accident.

Insurance won't fix it now because they think it's warranty related.

So you sue everybody. Dealer, manufacturer and insurance company. All you have prove is that you engine/tranny is damaged/defective. You enter your dealer repair records showing what they fixed back then. You the have an independent shop testify as to what they think caused it.. maybe they testify that it is 70% due to defective parts and 30% due to impact that weakend the parts further, etc. Then you sit back and let the defendants duke it out against each other and call in their experts. Someone will have to pay and maybe even both of them pay a share. so long as its not you.

For bumper to bumper items. Its not worth a lawsuit. But for engine/tranny repair, you betcha.
 
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It sets up the perfect trifecta lawsuit. Your car is damaged . They fix some suspension components , bodywork, etc. under the insurance claim

Then a year or two later you have engine or tranny problems. Dealer and Mazda try to claim it was due to the accident.

Insurance won't fix it now because they think it's warranty related.
I see your point. At some point in the process the vehicle could go to the dealer and have them check if it's throwing engine or trans codes. There's no guarantee they won't claim a problem down the line was not a residual affect of the collision but I guess having that diagnostic in your pocket cannot hurt.

If the assessment of the adjuster is that it should go to a body shop, and when you get the car back there are issues with engine and trans performance, then back to the insurance company you go. That's assuming the body shop did not flag the issue when they test drove it at which point I'd question whether I picked the right shop. If it comes out of the body shop running great then an argument may need to be made about whether precautionary engine / diagnostics should be covered.

Given the critical scenarios all seem to be unlikely, impact solely to the wheel, a frame inspection on a lift would seem to be first things first.
 
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By the way, It sure is hard to picture how a wheel could be struck that hard and the mirror smashed without any body panels or bumper damaged. A closer inspection is in order.
 
OP, if you want to keep this vehicle and if I were you, I would bring it to an i-car gold mazda certified body shop first( like madar said) and have them do an extensive teardown and inspection of every single body weld and structural component in addition to the mechanical components that attaches to the body. The vehicle needs to go on a frame pulling rack to check if there has been any misalignment or tweaking of the unibody as a result of the impact. There are points to measure, put there by the manufacturer for this purpose. You have no idea just by looking at the outside damage if this critical aspect has been affected. Vehicles today are designed to absorb impact and flex and bend out of shape to do so. If the unibody is off spec even by just a small amount, the vehicle will never drive straight and replacement mechanical components will never fit correctly. The entire drive train will not function as designed and can fail prematurely due to extra stress. You need to focus on the structure being perfect first before any new mechanical components are installed or you will run into future headaches.

Now, after this is evaluated and the shop determines the extent of the damage, your choice is either to keep the vehicle if there is no unibody damage, or if there is damage and it can be fixed safely. If there is damage, I would personally trade the vehicle in or sell to carvana or carmax or similar while prices are still higher before the used car market completely tanks and then purchase a new one now or in a few months. You can get deals on them now but better deals by the end of the year and yes that is what the market dictates right now.
 
Hi everyone, thanks very much for your responses, this is confirming my fears that there could be problems later on with the vehicle due to an impact like this. This is what the insurance has sent me in terms of repairs, I am still waiting for the dealer service to confirm and send me their final assessment.

Thanks for the information regarding the structural integrity. It went to the dealer service first, but it sounds like I should have an I-car gold Mazda certified autobody shop look at it before any work is done. Here is what they are proposing - perhaps these repairs can indicate the type of damage that was caused and the likelihood of this kind of damage causing more serious issues with drivetrain down the line.

Here are some pictures - as you can see it's very hard to see from the naked eye what is going on. The picture in the dark is night of the impact, the rest are the next day after I straightened out the car to get it out of the street. You can see the right wheel is straight while left is bent in. The video is of noises the car is making when changing the gears. Thanks for all the help, this entire process has really stressed me out.

Insurance proposed fixes
Wheel

3 102194 Alloy Wheel Remove /
Install
Mechanical* 0.3r Existing

4 900501 LT FRONT
1 102194 Alloy Wheel Remove /
Install
Mechanical* 0.3r Existing

2 900501 RT FRONT

Front Suspension
5 102209 L Frt Susp Steering Knuckle
-M

Remove /
Install
Mechanical 2.0r# Existing

6 101709 L Lwr Frt Susp Control Arm
Assy -M

Remove /
Replace
Mechanical 0.5# Aftermarket
New

OREILLY Part #:
102-8131

1 $245.75* Yes

7 102856 L Frt Susp Shock Absorber -
M

Remove /
Replace
Mechanical 0.6# New KN4C-34-900B 1 $185.82 Yes

8 AUTO L Cowl Top Grille Remove /
Install
Mechanical* 0.6#

9 102861 Frt Susp Stabilizer Bar -M Remove /
Install
Mechanical 3.6r# Existing

Front Drive Axle
10 101598 L Frt Drive Axle Shaft Assy -
M

Remove /
Install
Mechanical INC# Existing

11 101968 L Frt Drive Axle Shaft -M Remove /
Replace
Mechanical 0.6# New FTH7-25-60X 1 $588.14 Yes

Front Steering Linkage / Gear
12 101220 L Otr Steering Tie Rod -M Remove /
Install
Mechanical 0.3r Existing

Engine / Body Under Covers
13 101529 Frt Underbody Floor Under
Cover

Remove /
Install
Mechanical* 0.4r Existing

14 101530 Engine Under Cover Remove /
Install
Mechanical* 0.4r Existing

Special / Manual Entry
15 900500 SUSPENSION AND WHEEL
ALIGNMENT

Remove /
Replace
Mechanical* 0.5* Sublet 1 $140.00*

16 900500 CV GREASE CLEANUP Additional
Labor
Mechanical* 0.5* Existing

17 900500 PRE REPAIR SCAN Additional
Labor
Mechanical* 0.5* Existing

18 900500 POST REPAIR SCAN Additional
Labor
Mechanical* 0.5* Existing

19 900500 PUT VEHICLE ON LIFT Remove /
Replace
Mechanical* 0.5* New 1 $0.00* Yes
 

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Hi everyone, thanks very much for your responses, this is confirming my fears that there could be problems later on with the vehicle due to an impact like this. This is what the insurance has sent me in terms of repairs, I am still waiting for the dealer service to confirm and send me their final assessment.

Thanks for the information regarding the structural integrity. It went to the dealer service first, but it sounds like I should have an I-car gold Mazda certified autobody shop look at it before any work is done. Here is what they are proposing - perhaps these repairs can indicate the type of damage that was caused and the likelihood of this kind of damage causing more serious issues with drivetrain down the line.

Here are some pictures - as you can see it's very hard to see from the naked eye what is going on. The picture in the dark is night of the impact, the rest are the next day after I straightened out the car to get it out of the street. You can see the right wheel is straight while left is bent in. The video is of noises the car is making when changing the gears. Thanks for all the help, this entire process has really stressed me out.

Insurance proposed fixes
Wheel

3 102194 Alloy Wheel Remove /
Install
Mechanical* 0.3r Existing

4 900501 LT FRONT
1 102194 Alloy Wheel Remove /
Install
Mechanical* 0.3r Existing

2 900501 RT FRONT

Front Suspension
5 102209 L Frt Susp Steering Knuckle
-M

Remove /
Install
Mechanical 2.0r# Existing

6 101709 L Lwr Frt Susp Control Arm
Assy -M

Remove /
Replace
Mechanical 0.5# Aftermarket
New

OREILLY Part #:
102-8131

1 $245.75* Yes

7 102856 L Frt Susp Shock Absorber -
M

Remove /
Replace
Mechanical 0.6# New KN4C-34-900B 1 $185.82 Yes

8 AUTO L Cowl Top Grille Remove /
Install
Mechanical* 0.6#

9 102861 Frt Susp Stabilizer Bar -M Remove /
Install
Mechanical 3.6r# Existing

Front Drive Axle
10 101598 L Frt Drive Axle Shaft Assy -
M

Remove /
Install
Mechanical INC# Existing

11 101968 L Frt Drive Axle Shaft -M Remove /
Replace
Mechanical 0.6# New FTH7-25-60X 1 $588.14 Yes

Front Steering Linkage / Gear
12 101220 L Otr Steering Tie Rod -M Remove /
Install
Mechanical 0.3r Existing

Engine / Body Under Covers
13 101529 Frt Underbody Floor Under
Cover

Remove /
Install
Mechanical* 0.4r Existing

14 101530 Engine Under Cover Remove /
Install
Mechanical* 0.4r Existing

Special / Manual Entry
15 900500 SUSPENSION AND WHEEL
ALIGNMENT

Remove /
Replace
Mechanical* 0.5* Sublet 1 $140.00*

16 900500 CV GREASE CLEANUP Additional
Labor
Mechanical* 0.5* Existing

17 900500 PRE REPAIR SCAN Additional
Labor
Mechanical* 0.5* Existing

18 900500 POST REPAIR SCAN Additional
Labor
Mechanical* 0.5* Existing

19 900500 PUT VEHICLE ON LIFT Remove /
Replace
Mechanical* 0.5* New 1 $0.00* Yes
Nothing indicates frame damage.

Components to be replaced are the left shock, left control arm and left drive-axle.

Once that's replaced the vehicle should be fine.

Once the repair shop tears it apart, they should be able to assess any damage that might have occured to the transmission spool/gear teeth where the axle splines and tranny meet. Doubtful there is any damage, again it depends on the speed , angle and impact of the collision. You should have the tranny evaluated afterwards just for peace of mind.

Once it's at the shop of your choosing they can also assess any frame damage that might have occured.

Again, my vehicle was rear-ended at high speed, and the i-car gold shop did not find/or fix any frame damage...
all that was replaced was the bumper impact bar/reinforcement that (thick steel beam that was cracked in half from the impact) and bodywork/body panels.

It is doubtful your vehicle had frame damage but always good to have it checked.
 
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