2013~2016 CX-5 Brake Rotor and Pad recommendations?

When you bleed your brakes, get a clear tube that fits tightly over the bleeders. Use a small hose clamp if you have to. The other end should go down into a clear and clean coke bottle or similar. What I do is drill a hole in the cap to hold the tube securely, then a smaller hole next to it to let the bottle vent. The tube should extend all the way to the bottom, and be submerged in about an inch of clean brake fluid.

Now, with that set up, pump away until you see clean fluid in the tube! You don't even need a second person! (But it still helps). Just make sure the reservoir stays topped off. It's super satisfying to see the fluid turn from black to clear. :)
 
When you bleed your brakes, get a clear tube that fits tightly over the bleeders. Use a small hose clamp if you have to. The other end should go down into a clear and clean coke bottle or similar. What I do is drill a hole in the cap to hold the tube securely, then a smaller hole next to it to let the bottle vent. The tube should extend all the way to the bottom, and be submerged in about an inch of clean brake fluid.

Now, with that set up, pump away until you see clean fluid in the tube! You don't even need a second person! (But it still helps). Just make sure the reservoir stays topped off. It's super satisfying to see the fluid turn from black to clear. :)
Here I've been using open bottles the whole time. Nice trick.

To add to this, if you have one of those old cooler cup holders the type you throw in freezer... It adds weight and works well to hold the catch bottle from tipping over. Don't know if they still sell them now that everyone got Yeti's.
 
I'll have a second person so this will go well it sounds like. Thanks, will pick up 2 quarts just to be safe.
 
I do have another question then. How many quarts do I need to do a brake fluid change?
I haven't done it myself on my CX-5. Had it power flushed/bled after the place installed new tires. At that point it was 6 years since build date. The fluid was amber and clear with no black swirling around in the reservoir. No brake problems.
To answer your question, on previous cars a quart was sufficient but had an additional small bottle on hand for backup. Sometimes I used a 6 liter Mityvac fluid extractor to vacuum bleed the brakes. It did an acceptable job but used more fluid than pumping.
An advantage to this is if you do it alone you are at the caliper being bled and can see the fluid condition and when any air bubbles stop. Doing it alone and pumping through the bottle it's basically impossible to see these from the drivers seat. I got tired of running back and forth to open and close bleeders so used the vacuum method if going it alone.
I know you will have help but thought to mention the vacuum method if it needs to be done ASAP and no help available.
 
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When you bleed your brakes, get a clear tube that fits tightly over the bleeders. Use a small hose clamp if you have to. The other end should go down into a clear and clean coke bottle or similar. What I do is drill a hole in the cap to hold the tube securely, then a smaller hole next to it to let the bottle vent. The tube should extend all the way to the bottom, and be submerged in about an inch of clean brake fluid.

Now, with that set up, pump away until you see clean fluid in the tube! You don't even need a second person! (But it still helps). Just make sure the reservoir stays topped off. It's super satisfying to see the fluid turn from black to clear. :)
I get what you are saying and hopefully the fluid won't be black or at least much of it.
 
I like this bottle. Didn't cost much. Used with cheap endoscope bluetooth camera so I could see how much fluid was coming out while I bled the brakes by myself:

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And here's the view from the camera:

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That might've been me as I had the Akebono ProACT Ultra's for about a year or so and I hated it. Each time I tried to brake/brake hard, it felt like it did not generate enough force to stop the car even though I was pressing my foot fully as if it was taking its time. I swapped over to the Raybesto Element 3's and it is MUCH better in wet/dry conditions but I still think the OEM's are the best even though I can vividly remember how they felt as that was like 3 years ago. I do recall that when I braked with OEMs for emergency stopping, it was effortless and stopped on a dime.

Has anyone tried the BECK/ARNLEY pads? They are supposedly "OE Pads" based on what is listed on Rock Auto and they typically make OE equivalent components for most manufacturers or at least they claim to. I'm currently using Raybesto Element 3's and I like them but I would prefer semi-metallic instead next time for full stopping power. OE pads are definitely a little pricey since you would need to buy the hardware and pads separately and BECK/ARNLEY is a fraction of that cost with all of the hardware included.

That 'somebody' might have been me. And yes, MMDV (My Mileage Did Vary). Those ProAct's were the most expensive pads I ever bought and they sucked majorly.
Sorry they didn’t work out for you! Mine still stop very well after 4 years and nearly 40k miles. That’s a bummer to hear.

With that, I think I’m taking an indefinite hiatus from the forum. It really doesn’t matter what you post on a car forum (and this is most certainly one of the better ones!), but it’s just not worth it to me anymore. Got some ridicule back before it was cool to drain and flush the skyactiv transmission fluid. Posted my experience and review on some KYB complete struts and shocks I installed and folks will chime in with how it won’t feel like the manufacturer intended. Recommend a tire and get a response how that manufacturer had a class action lawsuit decades ago. Recommend a brake pad and it’s total garbage to somebody else. I’m done all, it’s been good.
 
Sorry they didn’t work out for you! Mine still stop very well after 4 years and nearly 40k miles. That’s a bummer to hear.

With that, I think I’m taking an indefinite hiatus from the forum. It really doesn’t matter what you post on a car forum (and this is most certainly one of the better ones!), but it’s just not worth it to me anymore. Got some ridicule back before it was cool to drain and flush the skyactiv transmission fluid. Posted my experience and review on some KYB complete struts and shocks I installed and folks will chime in with how it won’t feel like the manufacturer intended. Recommend a tire and get a response how that manufacturer had a class action lawsuit decades ago. Recommend a brake pad and it’s total garbage to somebody else. I’m done all, it’s been good.
Not sure what happened but you shouldn't let other posters dictate your actions. Everyone has their preferences but it's good to learn about alternatives.

Some people recommend brakes that stop on a dime. Not for me...I don't need to stop that fast. And i've just used plain old napa brakes in a pinch.

Tires ...I like Michelin's for all-season but I still find myself driving on Firestone AT despite the fact they had lawsuits decades ago and alot of people hate Firestone tires. Apparently they haven't driven on all terrains to know Firestone has one of the best all around all-terrain tire... Quiet yet functional on highway and offroad. Now if I was using all seasons, I would agree with most posters and go with Michelin's.

If you have different opinions on certain thread, just leave that thread for awhile. I've found that is usually best to pop off threads that get heated discussion. Unless it's your thread. And if facts show your right. Facts are facts. Preferences are opinions and everyone will have different opinions. Shouldn't be offended by others opinions. Good luck.
 
And, for what it's worth, KYB's are straight up AWESOME on our cars! And yes, they ride and feel pretty much like the stockers do. (But don't get me started on Monroe. Oof.)
 
... With that, I think I’m taking an indefinite hiatus from the forum...

Don't go away, it's better with you here. Your opinions and experiences are just as relevant as someone else's.

As they say, "hater's gonna hate" lol (<--- says "that one guy" who drives the diesel :p )
 
Sorry they didn’t work out for you! Mine still stop very well after 4 years and nearly 40k miles. That’s a bummer to hear.

With that, I think I’m taking an indefinite hiatus from the forum. It really doesn’t matter what you post on a car forum (and this is most certainly one of the better ones!), but it’s just not worth it to me anymore. Got some ridicule back before it was cool to drain and flush the skyactiv transmission fluid. Posted my experience and review on some KYB complete struts and shocks I installed and folks will chime in with how it won’t feel like the manufacturer intended. Recommend a tire and get a response how that manufacturer had a class action lawsuit decades ago. Recommend a brake pad and it’s total garbage to somebody else. I’m done all, it’s been good.
I mean, I guess I can understand different people having differing experiences with the same product. I wouldn't take any of it personally unless people are outright attacking you, but I don't see that with the brake pad one at least. I like reading your posts.
 
Sorry they didn’t work out for you! Mine still stop very well after 4 years and nearly 40k miles. That’s a bummer to hear.

With that, I think I’m taking an indefinite hiatus from the forum. It really doesn’t matter what you post on a car forum (and this is most certainly one of the better ones!), but it’s just not worth it to me anymore. Got some ridicule back before it was cool to drain and flush the skyactiv transmission fluid. Posted my experience and review on some KYB complete struts and shocks I installed and folks will chime in with how it won’t feel like the manufacturer intended. Recommend a tire and get a response how that manufacturer had a class action lawsuit decades ago. Recommend a brake pad and it’s total garbage to somebody else. I’m done all, it’s been good.
I posted my experience with the ProActs because after the expense and effort for all 4 wheels replacing pads, rotors, calipers and brake hoses that my braking was less than satisfactory and matched what Digbicks1234 posted. That was my experience. Your experience sounds much more positive. They work for you and that's great.
Just remember, someone else's experience or opinion does not invalidate yours. And you can't take differing opinions or experiences as a personal attack.
Stay with us, we value your contribution.
 
Reporting back. Replaced all rotors and pads today as well as replacing the brake fluid and a few observations.

The shop (BrakesPlus) who last worked on the brakes didn't bother to properly lubricate some of the caliper pins on the rear and they were extremely difficult to remove. Rear pads had very noticeable uneven wear. Front pads actually still had plenty of life, but went ahead and just did them all.

While bleeding the rear driver brake line, there was some crud in the line that came out. Didn't notice any crud coming out of the others. That said, fluid was definitely browning so I probably should have at least got the fluid changed sooner than I did. Went with Prestone DOT4 and used almost the entire 32oz bottle.

Once we bedded in the brakes and cooled back down, braking performance was fantastic. The Bosch pads are not overly bitey, but applying gradual pressure did result in good gradual braking. Felt very much like the OEM feel to me when new. I am happy with them as an OEM replacement. If you want immediate sharp bite with a little peddle press, these aren't it. I personally like the feel of the OEM style so these are perfect for that, and coming out of doing the job, my braking performance is vastly improved from what it was, but can see that being a combo of the new parts plus much needed fluid change.

Anyway, should be a good option if you like OEM pads.

Will also note that pads came with all proper clips and hardware needed. Looked like both boxes of pads came with silicon lubricant as well.
 
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