2013~2016 CX-5 Brake Rotor and Pad recommendations?

>service mode

I find it laughable that Mazda created a stupid answer (electric emergency brakes) to a question literally no one was asking.
This right here. My nephew is having issues with his 2018 CX-5 relating to the Cylinder Deactivation. Don't know the details, but car is basically limp mode, but having issues replicating at the dealer. I'm more leaning into @yrwei52 camp that it was a pointless addition, much like the EPB.

Anyway these are coated rotors. I didn't realize how much of a size difference there was between the rear and front pads/rotors. No wonder the rears wear out faster, they are tiny compared to the front pads. And again, 2014, so no maintenance mode.
 
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The service mode is for 2016 and newer which have the EPB. My 2014 requires the rear caliper piston to be rotated back into the caliper.
Oh, I'm well aware, with my 2017 it was able to be depressed once I put it in service mode. A friend of mine broke a C Clamp trying to depress the caliper on his Honda before he found out he needed the special tool.
 
If it's not too late, I like EBC discs, if they are on sale. DON'T buy slotted, dimpled or drilled discs; they are just cheese graters for your pads. I like and run plain Centric discs, too. I am running Porterfield carbon Kevlar pads, now. R4-1s on my Miata, ~2x the friction coefficient of typical pads and they destroy a disc in under 20k street miles. On my CX-5 I'm running R4-S pads. R4-S lasts longer, about the same as OEM, have a tiny bit less initial bite and greater brake torque when hot than OEM. Other than OEM pads, or Porterfield pads, I would run EBC pads.
Current brakes are good but will probably need replaced before winter.

Starting to compare brake pads and this helped a lot. Your assessment seems wise.

In past, usually ran OEM or Napa or adaptive one brake pads on other vehicles.

However am thinking about going with OEM or EBC red this time. The reds are ceramic, low dust and will look good on the machine gray. Was also looking at EBC green but they appear to be dusty and not sure want the green accents.

After driving this SUV, it really doesn't need any more over-the-top stopping power than the OEM already provide.
As you get older, stopping on a dime is hard on the body not to mention maybe getting rear-ended from the car behind that couldn't stop.

As far as rotors, have seen drilled rotors that were completely cracked and falling apart, pretty much disintegrated... Not too safe to have your rotors fall apart while braking.

Will be sticking with basic OEM type rotors or maybe EBC slotted but no drilled.

May research the porter-fields pads as well.

Looked at the porter-fields and may be more stopping power than I need. Their spec sheet makes them look alot more aggressive than OEM. Look great for anyone who drives fast and needs to stop super fast. May need to get specs on OEM and compare.

Are the OEM made by Akebono ?

Does anyone know who makes the OEM?
 
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Ended up getting the Bosch Quietcast rotors and pads as they all shipped from the same place with one shipping charge and got that for under $300 for fronts and rears.

Will be sure to update on how these feel after this is done. Will probably go over there next weekend or the weekend after.

Had also looked at the Powerstop kits they had, but was not interested in drilled/slotted rotors.
How are the Bosch after a couple weeks ?
 
Current brakes are good but will probably need replaced before winter.

Starting to compare brake pads and this helped a lot. Your assessment seems wise.

In past, usually ran OEM or Napa or adaptive one brake pads on other vehicles.

However am thinking about going with OEM or EBC red this time. The reds are ceramic, low dust and will look good on the machine gray. Was also looking at EBC green but they appear to be dusty and not sure want the green accents.

After driving this SUV, it really doesn't need any more over-the-top stopping power than the OEM already provide.
As you get older, stopping on a dime is hard on the body not to mention maybe getting rear-ended from the car behind that couldn't stop.

As far as rotors, have seen drilled rotors that were completely cracked and falling apart, pretty much disintegrated... Not too safe to have your rotors fall apart while braking.

Will be sticking with basic OEM type rotors or maybe EBC slotted but no drilled.

May research the porter-fields pads as well.

Looked at the porter-fields and may be more stopping power than I need. Their spec sheet makes them look alot more aggressive than OEM. Look great for anyone who drives fast and needs to stop super fast. May need to get specs on OEM and compare.

Are the OEM made by Akebono ?

Does anyone know who makes the OEM?
My OEM pads were Akebono. Had the "AK" stamped on them.
 
I like the Akebono ceramic ProAct brake pads and the CarQuest Premium Painted rotors I installed about 30k miles ago. The new pads came with the required hardware. They stop better imo and generate less dust than OEM despite having a smaller surface area than the original pads. The pedal was notably more firm after installation and still is. Just my 2 cents. Somebody awhile back said they found Akebono was the worst pad they’ve ever used lol. YMMV.
That might've been me as I had the Akebono ProACT Ultra's for about a year or so and I hated it. Each time I tried to brake/brake hard, it felt like it did not generate enough force to stop the car even though I was pressing my foot fully as if it was taking its time. I swapped over to the Raybesto Element 3's and it is MUCH better in wet/dry conditions but I still think the OEM's are the best even though I can vividly remember how they felt as that was like 3 years ago. I do recall that when I braked with OEMs for emergency stopping, it was effortless and stopped on a dime.

Has anyone tried the BECK/ARNLEY pads? They are supposedly "OE Pads" based on what is listed on Rock Auto and they typically make OE equivalent components for most manufacturers or at least they claim to. I'm currently using Raybesto Element 3's and I like them but I would prefer semi-metallic instead next time for full stopping power. OE pads are definitely a little pricey since you would need to buy the hardware and pads separately and BECK/ARNLEY is a fraction of that cost with all of the hardware included.
 
That might've been me as I had the Akebono ProACT Ultra's for about a year or so and I hated it. Each time I tried to brake/brake hard, it felt like it did not generate enough force to stop the car even though I was pressing my foot fully as if it was taking its time. I swapped over to the Raybesto Element 3's and it is MUCH better in wet/dry conditions but I still think the OEM's are the best even though I can vividly remember how they felt as that was like 3 years ago. I do recall that when I braked with OEMs for emergency stopping, it was effortless and stopped on a dime.

Has anyone tried the BECK/ARNLEY pads? They are supposedly "OE Pads" based on what is listed on Rock Auto and they typically make OE equivalent components for most manufacturers or at least they claim to. I'm currently using Raybesto Element 3's and I like them but I would prefer semi-metallic instead next time for full stopping power. OE pads are definitely a little pricey since you would need to buy the hardware and pads separately and BECK/ARNLEY is a fraction of that cost with all of the hardware included.
Agree. For OEM, the braking power is great . They got that part right.
Chrome wrong. Brakes right.
 
So going to be doing this brake work this Saturday. Also figured might as well do the brake fluid too. What kind do I get?
 
DOT 3/4 works fine. I use the inexpensive Valvoline from Advance Auto Parts in all of my cars, and I've never had a problem. Don't get DOT5, as it's completely incompatible with 3/4.
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I like the Akebono ceramic ProAct brake pads and the CarQuest Premium Painted rotors I installed about 30k miles ago. The new pads came with the required hardware. They stop better imo and generate less dust than OEM despite having a smaller surface area than the original pads. The pedal was notably more firm after installation and still is. Just my 2 cents. Somebody awhile back said they found Akebono was the worst pad they’ve ever used lol. YMMV.
That 'somebody' might have been me. And yes, MMDV (My Mileage Did Vary). Those ProAct's were the most expensive pads I ever bought and they sucked majorly.
 
That might've been me as I had the Akebono ProACT Ultra's for about a year or so and I hated it. Each time I tried to brake/brake hard, it felt like it did not generate enough force to stop the car even though I was pressing my foot fully as if it was taking its time. I swapped over to the Raybesto Element 3's and it is MUCH better in wet/dry conditions but I still think the OEM's are the best even though I can vividly remember how they felt as that was like 3 years ago. I do recall that when I braked with OEMs for emergency stopping, it was effortless and stopped on a dime.

Has anyone tried the BECK/ARNLEY pads? They are supposedly "OE Pads" based on what is listed on Rock Auto and they typically make OE equivalent components for most manufacturers or at least they claim to. I'm currently using Raybesto Element 3's and I like them but I would prefer semi-metallic instead next time for full stopping power. OE pads are definitely a little pricey since you would need to buy the hardware and pads separately and BECK/ARNLEY is a fraction of that cost with all of the hardware included.
Same experience here with the ProAct's (bad) and the Element 3's (very good). I went with the Element 3's to improve upon OEM stopping power and feel. For not being full ceramic, the E 3's don't generate much dust at all. My wheels are a lot cleaner than with any semi-metallic I've had in the past.
 
DOT 3/4 works fine. I use the inexpensive Valvoline from Advance Auto Parts in all of my cars, and I've never had a problem. Don't get DOT5, as it's completely incompatible with 3/4.
View attachment 311147
This Valvoline good stuff. Label used to say DOT 4 ( not 3/4). All I used for years. Maybe it's all in my head but I swear that stuff gave the firmest brake pedal after bleeding compared to DOT 3. Remember paying $6/qt.
 
DOT 3/4 works fine. I use the inexpensive Valvoline from Advance Auto Parts in all of my cars, and I've never had a problem. Don't get DOT5, as it's completely incompatible with 3/4.
View attachment 311147

This Valvoline good stuff. Label used to say DOT 4 ( not 3/4). All I used for years. Maybe it's all in my head but I swear that stuff gave the firmest brake pedal after bleeding compared to DOT 3. Remember paying $6/qt.

I do have another question then. How many quarts do I need to do a brake fluid change?
 
I do have another question then. How many quarts do I need to do a brake fluid change?
Depends on how much your gonna bleed out.

Technically you should be able to bleed the system with about one 1 quart, if everything goes right.

But, usually 1 to 2 quarts or 4 to 6 smaller bottles.
If you get a quart, maybe get one extra small bottle for oopsies.

I always like to have extra in case :
you bleed more out, it leaks, the bleeder sticks and won't screw back in, Your assistant keeps pumping the brakes after you yell stop, someone knocks over the bottle, etc. Something will always go wrong, like kids will start playing wherever you're at and hit the bottle with basketball, etc.

If you don't use it, it should keep as long as you don't break the seal or you could return it in unopened.
 
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