I'm going to shorten my ATF change interval

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12 MZ5 13 CX-5
2012 Mazda5. Did my 120,000 mile service today which consists of a through suspension, brake, and undercarriage inspection, rotating the tires, oil change, and ATF oil and filter change.

Upon removing the old ATF, it looked a lot darker than I would like. My normal ATF schedule is drain and fill every 30k miles, pan drop and filter change every 60k.

Now that the old girl is getting a few miles on her, and because I use a Wix 58113 filter which comes with a silicone gasket instead of having to use RTV, I'm going to shorten the time between my ATF service to a filter change every 15k. I also use OEM Mazda M5 fluid. This time it took exactly 4 quarts to full on the stick at 149°F. I verified the ATF temp with my Autel scan tool. Took about 10 minutes idling (I guess, didn't actually time it) to get to that temp.

Oil and filters are cheap. Transmissions are not. I've already relocated the TCM to the firewall, too. I am meticulous in my car maintenance, because cars are expensive!

Just my 2¢, and if it can help someone else out, I'm glad to have done it.
 
I had the same problem using Mazda fluid as well. I've recently started using Castrol Transmax (data sheet) but it's too early for me to tell how it's doing.

You may want to consider adding a transmission cooler with an in-line filter. People say that is a good way to increase the maintenance interval
 
Recently, I did a second drain and refill of the ATF in my Mazda Premacy (known as Mazda 5 in certain markets). The mileage was just under 100,000km. I calculated that the second change resulted in about 72% new ATF and 28% old fluid. I used Penrite ATF FS Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid, as it had performed really well in my previous car, a Toyota. This fluid renewal has made my transmission shift very smoothly, and improved my car's acceleration :)
 
Recently, I did a second drain and refill of the ATF in my Mazda Premacy (known as Mazda 5 in certain markets). The mileage was just under 100,000km. I calculated that the second change resulted in about 72% new ATF and 28% old fluid. I used Penrite ATF FS Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid, as it had performed really well in my previous car, a Toyota. This fluid renewal has made my transmission shift very smoothly, and improved my car's acceleration :)
I'm wondering what math you did that came to that? Did you take a line off and run the transmission to get additional fluid out?
 
@juniorsenior How's the Castrol Transmax working out? Have you noticed any smell at stop lights, etc?
Car shifts fine 🤷‍♂️ Probably have around 5-10,000 on mine. I just did a drain and fill (3quarts) so most of it is still Mazda fluid.

No smells. In my experience that only happens with part failure or when someone is a little careless during the filling
 
I'm wondering what math you did that came to that? Did you take a line off and run the transmission to get additional fluid out?
These MYTH dilution formulas have been circulating for years. They don't work and a simple oil analysis verifies and debunks the dilution MYTH. When you only do a pan fluid change you contaminate the new fluid 100%. The primary purpose for dropping the pan is to change the filter and inspect the pan and pan magnet, look at the valve body and wipe those areas with a white clean lint free rag to get a better clue about the transmission health.
I no longer use MAZDA transmission fluid mostly because of cost and that it is not RED. Call me old school about the color. I have had my fluid analyzed several times and have no ill effects. I also ran my transmission on the Transmission service machine that measure fluid pressure and TCM operation. PERFECT as per MAZDA service diagnostic procedures and even more that MAZDA never even list to look for any possible issues because of using none MAZDA fluid. The fluid I do use is approved compatible?
Thats just me you all can decide what works best for you and like theBlooms I am also of the belief to use his words that..... Oil and filters are cheap. Transmissions are not. I am meticulous in my car maintenance, because cars are expensive!
 
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These MYTH dilution formulas have been circulating for years. They don't work and a simple oil analysis verifies and debunks the dilution MYTH. When you only do a pan fluid change you contaminate the new fluid 100%. The primary purpose for dropping the pan is to change the filter and inspect the pan and pan magnet, look at the valve body and wipe those areas with a white clean lint free rag to get a better clue about the transmission health.
I no longer use MAZDA transmission fluid mostly because of cost and that it is not RED. Call me old school about the color. I have had my fluid analyzed several times and have no ill effects. I also ran my transmission on the Transmission service machine that measure fluid pressure and TCM operation. PERFECT as per MAZDA service diagnostic procedures and even more that MAZDA never even list to look for any possible issues because of using none MAZDA fluid. The fluid I do use is approved compatible?
Thats just me you all can decide what works best for you and like theBlooms I am also of the belief to use his words that..... Oil and filters are cheap. Transmissions are not. I am meticulous in my car maintenance, because cars are expensive!
You did not answer my question about how you came to determine you have "72% new ATF" and "28% old".

I feel like I'm going to get argumentative here but I'll keep it basic.

1. These "MYTH" dilution formulas are based off basic math.
2. Your dilution result is very odd, which makes me believe YOUR number is the one that is a MYTH.
3. Did I ask what the difference between draining and filling, dropping the pan and replacing the filter, or having a transmission flush does? No. Maybe you could use one of those lint free clothes to wipe your glasses off.
4. Dirty or bad fluid can still have good pressure. Dirty or bad fluid can still allow the TCM to function. Dirty or bad fluid is going to cause premature wear of the transmission.
5. You base your new ATF fluid based on color? Mazda ATF is not "RED", like the way it used to be? You do know that ATF is not naturally red, right? It is dyed for easier identification.

Your arguments all point toward me knowing you largely do not know what you are doing, though you may (on accident) get a couple things right. That's what they say about broken clocks too, I guess.
 

juniorsenior wow dude? You clearly are not reading my response very well. I mean really, I gave no % values and hinted about the acquisition of getting empirical data and information. LOL​

;)


:ROFLMAO:

Hope that you have AAA or a good towing insurance policy with your really bad information. About the only thing I can see is correct is the color RED ATF.

BTW the reason that fluids even now have specific assigned colors is back in the day like before you parents were likely even born, the few gas stations that were around employees and owners not really having any taught levels of basic service experience would mistakenly place the wrong fluids. So a somewhat universal standard to identify fluids was established.

All in all you get the daily reward of Best DIYNEN (do it yourself no experience necessary.) This reward often goes to people that have no cluse how things work on their vehicles. :LOL:
But I understand because you are even confused what to call yourself a JR or a SR? :cool:
 

juniorsenior wow dude? You clearly are not reading my response very well. I mean really, I gave no % values and hinted about the acquisition of getting empirical data and information. LOL​

;)


:ROFLMAO:

Hope that you have AAA or a good towing insurance policy with your really bad information. About the only thing I can see is correct is the color RED ATF.

BTW the reason that fluids even now have specific assigned colors is back in the day like before you parents were likely even born, the few gas stations that were around employees and owners not really having any taught levels of basic service experience would mistakenly place the wrong fluids. So a somewhat universal standard to identify fluids was established.

All in all you get the daily reward of Best DIYNEN (do it yourself no experience necessary.) This reward often goes to people that have no cluse how things work on their vehicles. :LOL:
But I understand because you are even confused what to call yourself a JR or a SR? :cool:
:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Well I was wrong on the percentage calculation. That was another user just before you.

Thank you for mansplaining why ATF is red. You literally just made a whole paragraph to explain what I said in six words. Bravo.

Junior Senior is the name of a band. But you knew that I bet, right? Being as old as you are. ..... And still driving an economy car that ended production no less than 5 years ago? Lol. I bet you know everything
 
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Being as old as you are. ..... And still driving an economy car that ended production no less than 5 years ago?
Damn, that made me (and my 2008) feel old :( but I take solace in knowing that the older you get the more you realize a car is nothing but a money sucking piece of depreciating asset...

Change the ATF. Frequency is not really the issue, rather keeping it clean and cool. The trans cooler uses coolant temp to get ATF up to temp and keep it comparable state to coolant temp; keeping your cooling system in working order (radiator, coolant) contributes to ATF fluid wear/tear. For those with a newer car and low mileage, removed the trans outlet hose and insert a temporary an in-line filter with new trans hose, drive for a few thousand miles to let the filter collect the debris, then replace/reuse outlet hose. The OE trans filter is like a hard porous sponge and does nothing but filter out large debris that causes catastrophic failures.

Highly recommend reading the SAE.org papers.
 
The filter on automatic transmission do collect small practical. We saw this kind of thought dating back before the internet wizards with their personal information . Simple test which we did with the support of BLACK OIL LABS was to pull transmission filters from various milage transmission. We ran clean/new ATF in reverse the normal fluid direction of the ATF fluid through the filters.. Then sent the sample in to be analyzed. All of out test sample DID show collect wear materials The filter do work! Any question to the validity of this information please free do the same test and post your analysis from one of several oil labs that offer oil analysis.

The rag wiping comment I made early on one of the responses (lol) to explain.... when you drop you pan on most any automatic transmission with more than about 50K miles even when the fluid looks clear and not discolored a simply by wiping using a clean "WHITE" cloth or paper towel on the surrounding parts like the valve body in every time will show on the rag a varnish that is forming. This varnish contributes to reducing the action of moving parts like servos which can effect other transmission p[erformance and without frequent servicing of the filter and at least the pan fluid can and often does lead to transmission problems.

I prefer using electrical parts cleaner on the exposed Transmision parts over normal parts cleaner. The obvious reason is that there are electrical parts in most modern ECU controlled transmission and electrical parts cleaner dries clean.
 

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