Cranking Time

Like most modern cars my 2016 CX5 has always started quickly after cranking no more than a couple of seconds or so. However twice lately it has cranked several seconds before starting. Not a long time but noticeably longer than usual. Long enough to get your attention. Then it started and runs fine. It has 130,000 miles on it. Wondering if it needs some maintenance that I haven't done or if something is on the verge of failing. Has anyone experienced this change in behavior on their Maxda?
Its your fuel injectors. 100 miles before your next oil change, consider using a good fuel injector cleaner. I applied Berryman's B12 Chemtool to a whole tank of gas. Then I cleaned the intake valve with CRC Intake Cleaner. I'm in the same high mileage range as you.

Result: Cranks stronger and faster than my untreated Mazda 6 with 85k miles. Also stronger acceleration and engine response.
 
Are you a shill for the little blue pill?..... I'm all ears how cleaning your injectors makes cranking, um, stronger and faster?
 
Are you a shill for the little blue pill?..... I'm all ears how cleaning your injectors makes cranking, um, stronger and faster?
auuuuuh com'on ya know that when you wash your car it always runs better..... and waxing/polishing makes it go faster. :ROFLMAO:

I actually liked the part that the answer was absolute, no question but then I have the best diagnostic tool that I am sure others have and use as well .:geek:
 

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Are you a shill for the little blue pill?..... I'm all ears how cleaning your injectors makes cranking, um, stronger and faster?
It's more like a Teal Pill.

Are you willing to state an inefficient fuel delivery system does not contribute to longer cranks?

Dude its only a $5 can. Try it! Seriously. Ok take notice of your current car's crank time/sound/feel. Go through a can of the stuff to your tank. Its a strong solvent that cleans the fuel delivery system. After 1 tank come back and report your experience. It'll probably be more pronounced at 130k miles as in my case.
 
Yeah, that's not what you wrote....as someone famous said "write what you mean, mean what you write".
Its your fuel injectors. 100 miles before your next oil change, consider using a good fuel injector cleaner. I applied Berryman's B12 Chemtool to a whole tank of gas. Then I cleaned the intake valve with CRC Intake Cleaner. I'm in the same high mileage range as you.

Result: Cranks stronger and faster than my untreated Mazda 6 with 85k miles. Also stronger acceleration and engine response.
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Here's my words^. Correct me where you see fit. Add some context to the conversation. No harm no foul from me. Go ahead. You seem pretty knowledgeable. I'm willing to learn from those more knowledgeable. It helps me add value and minimize misinformation.

"Crank stronger"...is that what made you question me? Perhaps I should word it as crank in lower amount time? Crank not as long? Again I'm not sure of the correct terminology. Do you know? I experienced shorter crank time and seems/feels like less cranking effort too. It was not after I changed plugs. Battery is in good condition. CRC intake valve cleaning isn't going to affect it. Only thing left is the fuel cleaner. I like sharing all my experiences (both negative/positive) in this forum. I shared this particular experience in attempt to help OP out. He's at 130k miles as well as me. I encourage you to also clean your intake valves, fuel system, change spark plugs. Of the those actions the fuel system cleaning improving the engine firing up strong and fast in my case.

Also again I'm asking you the question: "Are you willing to state an inefficient fuel delivery system does not contribute to longer cranks?"
 
Your phrasing just made it humorous....you're reading it as serious technical criticism. So to that...

"Crank stronger" for most car people implies more vigorous (louder, faster...) cranking from starter, which isn't related to fuel

"Crank faster" for most car people implies engine rotates faster from starter, also not fuel related.

Catch faster or start faster or start more quickly could be reasonably attributed to starter or fuel or spark, in which case I would have left you to muse about injector cleaner or ____________, above and previous.
 
Your phrasing just made it humorous....you're reading it as serious technical criticism. So to that...

"Crank stronger" for most car people implies more vigorous (louder, faster...) cranking from starter, which isn't related to fuel

"Crank faster" for most car people implies engine rotates faster from starter, also not fuel related.

Catch faster or start faster or start more quickly could be reasonably attributed to starter or fuel or spark, in which case I would have left you to muse about injector cleaner or ____________, above and previous.
Perhaps the correct terminology I experienced was a "Hard Start"? If so then this is different from OP's cranking issue which went away on its own?

I came across this article regarding Hard Start Symptoms: How To Tell If Fuel Injectors Are Clogged

I actually experienced 2 of the 4 symptoms listed.
- Unusual Vibration: I experienced this at around 2500RPM during both Acceleration and engine braking.

- Hard Start: Engine having difficulty or longer time to start. I guess I mistook this for OP's thread title "Cranking Time".

Both symptoms went away in my case. Blue pill or not.

Edit: Found this other reading: Hard to start or extended cranking

It advised: "Hard to Start or Extended Cranking" and has a good read on fuel delivery among other possible problems.
 
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I really like the good old days when people had to go to a shop and ask for help instead of finding the answer, they want to read on the internet.
Everybody is now an internet self certified Automotive Engineer and Technician. :ROFLMAO:
 
Folks, this forum is a place to share experiences and information, first and foremost. By doing this, we can all collectively learn from one another. In keeping with that theme, some suggestions were made to the OP - if you disagree with the suggestions, feel free to share your experience or expertise so that we can get the OP's issue resolved.
 
I really like the good old days when people had to go to a shop and ask for help instead of finding the answer, they want to read on the internet.
Everybody is now an internet self certified Automotive Engineer and Technician. :ROFLMAO:
I may not know everything about cars....but there's some technical 33rd degree, yoda master certified, cabin filter quantum engineers (including myself). We can change lives by changing one Cabin filter at a time!!
 
I really like the good old days when people had to go to a shop and ask for help
Everybody is now an internet self certified Automotive Engineer and Technician. :ROFLMAO:

I'm just a 40 year+ DIY'er and come from a long line of farmer-mechanics and bona-fide mechanics. I built on that by becoming very comfortable, as a hobby, with automotive/engine control systems and component level troubleshooting. I'm also of engineering fabric and a former technical writer, so communicating precisely, and systematic approach are, alas, pet peeves. I enjoy the process as much as the repair. Sorry that I get occasionally cranky or snarky. Old people...

As for the good old days, it was worse; you took your car to a shop that had a 70% or better chance of being avg or below, and had to pay them to "guess" what was wrong and return car worse off (at best not repaired), and have charged you a ransom to boot.

At least in forums, the comments are free and you can look for consensus on responses and/or get the above average, like yrwei52 and Tribe&True to weigh in.
 
I'm just a 40 year+ DIY'er and come from a long line of farmer-mechanics and bona-fide mechanics. I built on that by becoming very comfortable, as a hobby, with automotive/engine control systems and component level troubleshooting. I'm also of engineering fabric and a former technical writer, so communicating precisely, and systematic approach are, alas, pet peeves. I enjoy the process as much as the repair. Sorry that I get occasionally cranky or snarky. Old people...

As for the good old days, it was worse; you took your car to a shop that had a 70% or better chance of being avg or below, and had to pay them to "guess" what was wrong and return car worse off (at best not repaired), and have charged you a ransom to boot.

At least in forums, the comments are free and you can look for consensus on responses and/or get the above average, like yrwei52 and Tribe&True to weigh in.
Having a cross section of opinions and experience are a good thing. Literally. I mean there's companies out there that would pay good money for such things.
 
Having a cross section of opinions and experience are a good thing. Literally. I mean there's companies out there that would pay good money for such things.
No not even close......
In reality most manufactures, and companies do not participate on forums. They may advertise and promote their products but seldom beyond that for exactly the reason on the beginning part of your post....CX-5um... to many opinions and (limited) experiences on many subject materials and more about anomalies or isolated experiences that happened with them to base any solid useful information. It's good for forum camaraderie and DIY support to a point if a person asking for help has the time reading all the suggestion and trying them one by one. At times I do get from some forums with respect to what I read an idea for a product that may be first profitable to engineer and manufacture but also needed? I do have my own Marketer that I run ideas by him all the time. Many get the round bucket filling status.
On this thread I read suggestions that were not even MAZDA specific nor for a MAZDA engine. In the Auto mechanical world, the "mechanic" days were in the beginning stages ending about the time OBD1 came into the picture. This meant that the average mechanic could no longer rely on past experience or training to repair some aspects of any vehicle. When OBDII and CAN-bus were introduced the "old school mechanic" became really obsolete. To successfully work on most electrical systems on vehicles now you need specialized training like a MAZDA certified Technician or ASE Certified Automotive Technician (and current levels) to work on most all manufacture vehicles from at least 2002 to present. Guessing based on limited experience or different platforms only causes in many cases more down time and money spent on buying and replacing parts that are not problematic.
I realize this statement is going to have some sitting reading this and twisting in their "armchairs" Sorry but having delt with auto manufactures and more so aftermarket or performance auto industry for several decades we don't go to the general public (especially on forums) to ask them how to build a better mouse trap or how to fix it.
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Speaking of decades.....AVC ...your not old , dude, if you consider yourself old @40+ then I m ancient. :ROFLMAO:
 
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Speaking of decades.....AVC ...your not old , dude, if you consider yourself old @40+ then I m ancient. :ROFLMAO:
I've been DIY'ing for 40 years, and I didn't start at 5, so....;)
 
I've been DIY'ing for 40 years, and I didn't start at 5, so....;)
Using your 40 years DIY as a point of reference in 1982 I owned my own Speed shop, and general Autoparts Store... DIY's were my customers coming asking my advise and recommendations... :cool:
 
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I’ll have to ask my coworker how their experience is going. They have a Ford SUV with about 120,000 miles, ‘16 or ‘17 that is now taking consistently longer to start. He was thinking it might be a fuel filter or fuel pump issue. The indy shop they brought it to thought purging the fuel line should do the trick, but I’m not sure if that resolved it.
I remembered to ask him today, and purging the fuel line did the trick for his vehicle. Their vehicle consistently required extended cranking to start though (wasn’t a couple of odd occurrences). He admitted his wife wasn’t great about filling the gas tank and often ran it low. Thought that was a pretty cool fix in his situation. Props to the shop for starting simple.
 
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I remembered to ask him today, and purging the fuel line did the trick for his vehicle. Their vehicle consistently required extended cranking to start though (wasn’t a couple of odd occurrences). He admitted his wife wasn’t great about filling the gas tank and often ran it low. Thought that was a pretty cool fix in his situation. Props to the shop for starting simple.
Call me cynical, but something's missing from this story. If the line had water in it (tank had water in it), I can see where purging solved it -- run pump until water purges and pure fuel emerges. However, water in the line would have caused severe drivability issues as well. Running the tank "low" has (materially) no consequence. Running it until the engine stalls, where the pump is picking up air would cause only temporary issue in starting and drivability. And it's hard on the pump internals to run it dry; vane friction, and the fuel is used for cooling the pump.

The key details from the OP were occasional hard starting but otherwise "ran fine". The two facts together focuses the problem more narrowly, which (at least initially in the troubleshooting process) eliminates quite a few things, including a bad or bad tanks of gas, fuel injectors, leaking injectors, etc., unless he bought the same grade from the same station (i.e. contaminated or poor batch of fuel). Maybe the OP will clarify.
 
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