Replacement brakes

I recently had the rear rotors and pads done on my 2018 CX5 and the labour at the independent shop I use was 1.6 hrs. @ $124/hr. The parts were an additional $315.00 ( All Canadian dollars)
This is absolutely in range of what I would expect. Not $1,000
 
I guess I'm out of the loop but some of these brake job quotes make me gag. As mentioned (different times on these brake threads) the dealers like to recommend brakes and rotors prematurely. Luckily,I do my own brake work. I don't turn (resurface) rotors if they measure good with good surface finish. It's not worth the hassle and it delays the job. Also requires another vehicle to take and pick up the rotors when they are done. It also gives an opportunity for the machining job to get botched. They get replaced if needed but only if needed. I know this is at odds with other peoples' procedures.

Having said that, I replaced the front and rear pads for about$150 total in parts. The rear pads were OEM Mazda along with the separately sold stainless steel pad guide/holders. The front pads were the less expensive Raybestos Element 3 which included the guides in the box.
The rotors were within spec for parallelism (both faces parallel-- measured at 5 locations around the rotor), runout and surface condition (no cracks, discoloration, gouges or high/low spots). The thickness was close to original with plenty of material left if chosen to be resurfaced and still be comfortably above minimum thickness. Also, I've never replaced a rotor because it was worn too thin. Always warped/excessive runout, gouged/deeply grooved surface or small cracks and heat discoloration.

This isn't advice, just my philosophy and how it's possible to economically replace brakes.
And on a related note, at about the 6 year mark I had the brake system power bled to install new fluid. Also, when retracting the caliper piston to install new pads I open the bleeder screw to vent the fluid rather than push it back upstream. This also ensures that the bleeder screw actually gets opened once in a while instead of corroding shut from disuse and twisting off when it's opened for the first time in many years.
Well, this has run long enough. Good luck.
 
Lot of good advice there. I also open the bleeder when I push my caliper pistons back in. I also make sure that the bleeders retain the rubber caps. I always look at this every time I do an oil change/tire rotation. Those caps are essential to the bleeders to keep trash out of them.
 
, when retracting the caliper piston to install new pads I open the bleeder screw to vent the fluid rather than push it back upstream
Do you open the bleeder before you perform the EPB procedure?

Replacing the pads is pretty easy, other than jacking up the car to remove the wheel. I've never had any rotors than had to be replaced. If there are grooves on the rotors be sure and gradually break in the brakes to bed them to the rotors.
 
Do you open the bleeder before you perform the EPB procedure?

Replacing the pads is pretty easy, other than jacking up the car to remove the wheel. I've never had any rotors than had to be replaced. If there are grooves on the rotors be sure and gradually break in the brakes to bed them to the rotors.
Luckily, my car doesn't have that crap.

In my opinion, an electronic emergency brake is a stupid answer to a question literally no one was asking.
 
Ok so this is a wild thread...

Labor rates vary from state to state or country. You can actually look up what the average hourly shop rate is in most states.
Almost ALL shops use the flat rate guide to determine what the service time will be. It does not matter if an Auto Technician can do the job listed for 2 hours in an hour. But there are two guides one is for none warranty work and the other is for warranty work. This gives better shop a little bringing to help a customer or to build a relationship with that customer for future service needs. Don't count on this little discount and I would not ask for it directly. But you can word things like can you help me out a little with the total?

OEM part not superior to many aftermarket OE brake parts. It is a MYTH. In most cases when the warranty is up there really is no reason to use brake rotos, drums and pads fro the Dealer.

DO NOT BRING YOUR OWN PARTS for a brake job at a shop unless you have a clear understanding what they will and will not cover regarding a warranty issue.

Speaking of parts.... really, I did not read aside from a few mentioning dealer parts what brand and in the brand which pads were being chosen for the estimate. Like everything there are different type material that does different things along with longevity, braking potential and brake dust and noise .

DON"T tell a shop how to do a procedure or remind them of procedures. We know what we are doing or we wouldn't be in the business to do and advertise BRAKE SERVICE!

The one funny comment is about brake rotors being thin..... no they are not "thin" even aftermarket because as far as I am aware there are NO companies even from China that do not at least use OEM specification for the basic rotor manufactured.

Grooves formed a pattern between the pad and the rotor as they wear together. By only changing the pad and not replacing the rotor will simply wear the pattern of the rotor into the new pad. The highest and best braking is a rotor surface that is flat and free from grooves to mate with a flat pad.

Many shops do not service rotors by machining them or turning them as it was years ago. Most of the time it is not cost effective and easier and quicker to change a rotor rather machine it. You can ask for the price cost difference if the shop has a brake Layth for machining rotors.

Brakes are not as easy to do as they were 2-3 decades ago, so while I know there are some good do-it-yourselfers on this forum if you don't have the tools and have not done a brake job lately it is best not to practice on your MAZDA. Unless you have a friend that sort of knows what they are doing to help you.

I am just saying just another response to read and at least think about...
 
Do you open the bleeder before you perform the EPB procedure?

Replacing the pads is pretty easy, other than jacking up the car to remove the wheel. I've never had any rotors than had to be replaced. If there are grooves on the rotors be sure and gradually break in the brakes to bed them to the rotors.
I don't have EPB .Maybe someone else can chime in. I used a C-clamp to slowly push the piston back into the caliper after cracking the bleeder open. Slow and easy and no air got in. For the rotors, fine, very shallow grooves only. More like lines, can feel them but nothing that catches a thumbnail.
Lot of good advice there. I also open the bleeder when I push my caliper pistons back in. I also make sure that the bleeders retain the rubber caps. I always look at this every time I do an oil change/tire rotation. Those caps are essential to the bleeders to keep trash out of them.
+1 on the rubber caps.
 
To the above, I don’t think it’s rude or disrespectful to ask if a shop knows how to engage the maintenance mode. If the technician got offended by that, I’d go somewhere else. Nothing wrong with being humble. Frankly, it’s that attitude that continues to push DIY efforts. I’m sure a dealership felt that way when they zapped my lugnuts on with an impact wrench, and my own one at home struggled to loosen the damn things lol!

Case in point: I had to work with a professional today who was told and instructed by a range master/armorer that it was fine to shoot 38 Super Auto in a firearm clearly marked 38 Special. Over 50% higher pressure and an unsafe combination. I’m happy to report the gun didn’t blow apart when fired. The guy who was supposed to know better didn’t realize the 38 Special cartridge he initially tried to chamber didn’t have a wad cutter bullet, which is what that specialized model pistol was designed to chamber.
 
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Ok so this is a wild thread...

DO NOT BRING YOUR OWN PARTS for a brake job at a shop unless you have a clear understanding what they will and will not cover regarding a warranty issue.

DON"T tell a shop how to do a procedure or remind them of procedures. We know what we are doing or we wouldn't be in the business to do and advertise BRAKE SERVICE!
Respectfully mildly disagree with you there.
Firstly, I've taken my own parts many times to a local shop with no issues. Everything from starter motors to oil filters. They were more than happy to charge me the labour for installing them. I was also aware that there would be no warranty from the garage on the parts, but I never had any issues.
Secondly, you'd be surprised what these indie shops don't know. High turnover in tech staff, minimal training, hundreds of different makes in the shop every week means I can guaranty these guys don't know everything. I would absolutely remind them that my Mazda has the epb system and needs to be put into maintenance mode. If that upsets some guy because of his inflated ego, then it's goodbye.
 
...DON"T tell a shop how to do a procedure or remind them of procedures. We know what we are doing or we wouldn't be in the business to do and advertise BRAKE SERVICE!...
IMG_20110806_221220.jpg


:p
 
Ok so this is a wild thread...

Labor rates vary from state to state or country. You can actually look up what the average hourly shop rate is in most states.
Almost ALL shops use the flat rate guide to determine what the service time will be. It does not matter if an Auto Technician can do the job listed for 2 hours in an hour. But there are two guides one is for none warranty work and the other is for warranty work. This gives better shop a little bringing to help a customer or to build a relationship with that customer for future service needs. Don't count on this little discount and I would not ask for it directly. But you can word things like can you help me out a little with the total?

OEM part not superior to many aftermarket OE brake parts. It is a MYTH. In most cases when the warranty is up there really is no reason to use brake rotos, drums and pads fro the Dealer.

DO NOT BRING YOUR OWN PARTS for a brake job at a shop unless you have a clear understanding what they will and will not cover regarding a warranty issue.

Speaking of parts.... really, I did not read aside from a few mentioning dealer parts what brand and in the brand which pads were being chosen for the estimate. Like everything there are different type material that does different things along with longevity, braking potential and brake dust and noise .

DON"T tell a shop how to do a procedure or remind them of procedures. We know what we are doing or we wouldn't be in the business to do and advertise BRAKE SERVICE!

The one funny comment is about brake rotors being thin..... no they are not "thin" even aftermarket because as far as I am aware there are NO companies even from China that do not at least use OEM specification for the basic rotor manufactured.

Grooves formed a pattern between the pad and the rotor as they wear together. By only changing the pad and not replacing the rotor will simply wear the pattern of the rotor into the new pad. The highest and best braking is a rotor surface that is flat and free from grooves to mate with a flat pad.

Many shops do not service rotors by machining them or turning them as it was years ago. Most of the time it is not cost effective and easier and quicker to change a rotor rather machine it. You can ask for the price cost difference if the shop has a brake Layth for machining rotors.

Brakes are not as easy to do as they were 2-3 decades ago, so while I know there are some good do-it-yourselfers on this forum if you don't have the tools and have not done a brake job lately it is best not to practice on your MAZDA. Unless you have a friend that sort of knows what they are doing to help you.

I am just saying just another response to read and at least think about...
I think the comment about thin rotors refers to the meatier rotors on the older cars before cars were 'thinned down' for weight savings. Those were some heavy duty rotors on the full size, rear wheel drive domestic cars where the wheel bearings were incorporated in the front rotors. The rears were generally everybody's favorite drum type brakes. Those rotors could take some serious abuse. I had smoke rolling off the right front rotor while driving it at 60 mph more than once. Changed the caliper and pads and went on. No warped rotor. Yea baby, young ,dumb and carefree. The good old days.
 
A little off topic here, but if you were to not go with Mazda parts, are there manufacturers you would go to. On another board for another car, Brembo, Centric, Centric Cryo was mentioned as was Centric and Akebono ceramic (?) pads.

Not looking for the go fast drilled, slotted stuff, this is not a sports car.

Any experiences? Or just go with Mazda?
 
I haven’t done brakes on my cx5 yet, but did replace them on my Acura rl. Used centric and akebono pads and liked them. I will probably go that route for the cx5.
 
As far as rotors go, I've had terrific luck with the coated CarQuest Platinum from Advance Auto. They are painted on all surfaces that normally rust. Do not be afraid of using them.

I haven't used anything but OEM pads for a very long time now, so I'm not going to comment there.
 
As far as rotors go, I've had terrific luck with the coated CarQuest Platinum from Advance Auto. They are painted on all surfaces that normally rust. Do not be afraid of using them.

I haven't used anything but OEM pads for a very long time now, so I'm not going to comment there.
I used the same rotors on mine, they’re fantastic.
 
Not looking for the go fast drilled, slotted stuff, this is not a sports car.
These on a street car are for looks. They truly serve so little performance value on a street or daily driver but they just look "RACE" on any vehicle. And in the real world of racing a smooth surface is generally shown to have higher braking than drilled and slotted. In some professional performance builds will machine small amount of slots are used but nothing like years ago.
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I will use many brands of aftermarket brake part it all depends on what I plan on using them on. I suppose on the Mazda for rotors I would like Stop Tech. But for pads that would depend on what my summer drive will be. If I am going to be traveling a lot I would stay with a brake pad that would produce less or almost no brake dust. If Iam going to be having more fun with the Mazda then a more aggressive pad for better braking not worrying about the brake dust or the wear on the rotors.
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I would not be using Mazda OEM brake pads of rotors again. I don't like when I do use them frequently the notable diminished braking when they get hot. Also, the rotors tend to rust in area's that although do not hinder brake performance they just make your brakes "fugly" when you wash your ride and look at them through the wheels.
 
I haven’t done brakes on my cx5 yet, but did replace them on my Acura rl. Used centric and akebono pads and liked them. I will probably go that route for the cx5.
On my RL, I found the stock Advics pads to better than akebono ceramics I used to replace. I did love that car as heavy as it was.
 
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