Fat Tires

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2019 CX-5 AWD
Since I got my 2019 CX-5, I've wanted bigger tires. I finally bought a set of wheels and tires. The goal is to improve the ride and reduce road noise. Obviously, 18s, 19s, or 20s look better but I like big tires and the standard 225/65/17s do not satisfy. The standard Yokohama Geolandar G91A 225/65/17 tires have a load index of 100 (1,764lb per tire) and 10/32nds of tread depth. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...ireModel=Geolandar+G91A&partnum=265HR7GEOHTV3

For wheels, I bought a set of Enkei PX-10s from TireRack - which were reasonably priced at $150 each and one of the lightest wheels available in this size, 16.4lbs. I stayed with the factory +45 offset. I decided to purchase the tires on Amazon because I wanted to be able to return them if they didn't work out, which was good because the first set didn't. Costco, Amazon, and Discount Tire (if you have one near you) will accept tire returns.

I first tried 235/70/16 Michelin Defender LTX, but it didn't improve the ride (about the same) and it's actually louder than the 17s! This is an "XL" tire (Extra Load) with a load index of 109 (2,271lbs per tire), compared to 100 (1,764lb per tire) for the originals. Tread depth is 12/32nds. I wanted to try a heavier, stronger tire at lower pressure, but this tire proved to be too stiff - even at 27PSI it transmits too much noise into the cabin.

The other thing that surprised me is how much heavier the steering became. I like the light electric power steering of the CX-5 as it comes from the factory and it isn't user adjustable, so this was another issue with the Michelins. I don't know how much of this is due to the heavier construction of the tire and how much is due to the extra 10mm of width. Also, the size wasn't enough of an increase over the standard tire. So I returned them.

BTW, car has salt spots because of the salt air near the ocean. It gets washed regularly.

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The size I should have got to begin with is 225/75/16, or 29.3". A search of this size on Amazon led me to the Hankook Dynapro HT RH12, the first Korean tire brand I've tried. The tires are made in a U.S. plant. Tread depth is 13/32nds. The Hankooks are much better priced vs the Michelins ($111 vs $198 at time of purchase) and had great reviews on Amazon and TireRack, so I went with them. On TireRack, you can sort reviews to only show people who've reported higher amounts of mileage with a set of tires to get an idea of how they might hold up over longer mileage. Both tires have pretty good reviews, but as I mentioned the Michelins were just too heavy of a tire for this vehicle.

These tires are great so far, quiet and smooth which was my goal with this setup. No rubbing at full lock. This is the largest tire you can get in 16" without going wider. It's good for an additional 22.5mm of sidewall (225 x .65 = 146.25mm, 225 x .75 = 168.75mm) over stock, or .9".

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Thanks for reading!
 
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I'm a little confused. Why didn't you just get 235/60R17 or 235/65R17 for your original 17 inch rims?
 
I'm a little confused. Why didn't you just get 235/60R17 or 235/65R17 for your original 17 inch rims?

He wanted taller sidewalls. 225/75 on a 16" wheel has a bit more sidewall than 235/65 on a 17" wheel. The 16" wheels are also probably lighter than the OEM 17s.
 
For bigger tires. There is limited room in the front wheel wells, so you have to downsize the wheel to maximize the tire. The wheels are lighter at 16.4lbs each, but the goal is the smoothest, quietest ride and ability to go over potholes and bad roads without concern. These are better than the original 225/65/17 at that. They can be run at lower pressure than a 17" wheel, and the extra cm of ground clearance is subtle but nice to have.


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Just curious. I got
235 70r16 to switch out in spring. For your 16 inches, Why did you pick 225 75r16 ?

Larger tire = more ground clearance, better ride, lower noise. The P225/75/16 tire reduces unsprung weight by 3 lbs from the 235/70/16s. You can also run lower tire pressure.
 
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I am just wondering how this will affect the ABS in reporting to the PCM/ECU/TCM?
Going to such a different tire height from the chassis and suspension engineered design and how that will affect getting a normal alignment?
What will be the new braking distance now that there is reduced braking performance with the taller sidewall and narrower tread contact?
On the handling question without adding suspension upgrades the overall handling will be less then original and likely to exponentially decreases as speeds increase?

I was just thinking about these as I was reading this thread. I don't really expect answers just sharing my thoughts.
 
I stayed with the same offset so as not to require an alignment. The car sits higher but there isn't any unusual pulling or anything like that, still tracks straight. Handling is the same at normal road speeds, don't track the car. The contact patch is larger but the tread is the same 225 width, not narrower. There was a noticeable change in handling (heavier steering) with the wider, heavier 109 load range tires, but these tires maintain the original steering response while being smoother (less vibration) and quieter than stock.
 
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The answer is in the first post: Larger tire, more ground clearance, better ride, lower noise, lighter steering and better efficiency. The P225/75/16 tire reduces unsprung weight by 3 lbs from the 235/70/16s. You can also run substantially lower pressure, 28 PSI for P225/75/16 vs 31 PSI for 235/70/16 vs 34 PSI for stock P225/65/17.
Is that 3 lbs per tire? Thanks for the info.
The extra 1/3 inch ground clearance would be nice.

My Firestone 235 70r16 AT come in at 29 lbs...
Although not the same brand, What's the weight on your 225 75's ?

Also, by going taller without increasing the width, have you noticed any difference in stability , handling or holding the road while cornering?

For reference for other reading the post.
225 65r17 = 28.5 inches
225 55r19= 28.7 inches
235 70r16 = 29 inches
225 75r16 = 29.3 inches
 
Rpf1 - 17lbs a wheel
Dws06 255/55r18 30lbs a tire

Didn’t weigh the factory setup but just by swapping them out I’d say an easy 10lb difference
 
Is that 3 lbs per tire? Thanks for the info.
The extra 1/3 inch ground clearance would be nice.

My Firestone 235 70r16 AT come in at 29 lbs...
Although not the same brand, What's the weight on your 225 75's ?

Also, by going taller without increasing the width, have you noticed any difference in stability , handling or holding the road while cornering?

For reference for other reading the post.
225 65r17 = 28.5 inches
225 55r19= 28.7 inches
235 70r16 = 29 inches
225 75r16 = 29.3 inches

The 225/75/16 are 3lbs lighter per tire (30lbs) than the 235/70/16 (33lbs). Your Firestone ATs are standard load (104) vs the XL (109) of the Michelins. Handling is very similar as with the 17s, difference is reduced NVH and reduced impact of bumps and rough pavement. My experience with both sizes of tires has me preferring 225/75/16.
 
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The 225/75/16 are 3lbs lighter per tire (30lbs) than the 235/70/16 (33lbs). Your Firestone ATs are standard load (104) vs the XL (109) of the Michelins. Handling is very similar as with the 17s, difference is reduced NVH and reduced impact of bumps and rough pavement. My experience with both sizes of tires has me preferring 225/75/16.
Thanks Choc. For now my 235 70r16s will be better than the 17 and 19 inch. Hopefully not as rough a ride. But might have to try your 225 75r16 next time around.

One thing noticed is the cx5 is very jittery. My head continually bounces vibrates against the headrest with every little road jitter. Never had this happen with any other vehicle. If the 16 inch tires don't fix and make a more comfortable ride, may have to look at the suspension/ shocks/struts. Any ideas why this suv is so bumpy? Any recommendations?
Willing to lose some handling to get a more comfortable ride. What shock/struts would improve comfort?
 
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One thing noticed is the cx5 is very jittery. My head continually bounces vibrates against the headrest with every little road jitter. Never had this happen with any other vehicle. If the 16 inch tires don't fix and make a more comfortable ride, may have to look at the suspension/ shocks/struts. Any ideas why this suv is so bumpy? Any recommendations?
Willing to lose some handling to get a more comfortable ride. What shock/struts would improve comfort?

I don't know if this applies to you, but in colder weather, I've found that the suspension on every car I've driven becomes stiffer. Maybe the cold is a factor?

Have you tried adjusting the headrests yet? Despite the commonly used name, you aren't supposed to rest your head on them. In the proper seating position, your head should not be in contact with the headrest at any time.

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In any case, while the CX-5 is an SUV, it is more on the "sporty" side, and has suspension tuned to be "sporty". This might make it less comfortable on bumpy terrain, but more engaging on paved roads.
 
One thing noticed is the cx5 is very jittery. My head continually bounces vibrates against the headrest with every little road jitter. Never had this happen with any other vehicle. If the 16 inch tires don't fix and make a more comfortable ride, may have to look at the suspension/ shocks/struts. Any ideas why this suv is so bumpy? Any recommendations?

The CX-5 bounces/jitters like it does because it is essentially a high riding car (hatchback/wagon) that is tuned (compression/rebound) for the street.

It was never designed to float or absorb large suspension movements, such as in off-road driving scenarios) and is therefore stiffly sprung (with corresponding shock performance) to be an "agile" road handler.

The short wheel base probably doesn't help matters either, but the biggest culprit is the spring/shock tuning.

The washboard, concrete that makes up I-75 near us is terrible. 5 miles in either direction from our exit is incredibly jittery. I blame Ohio DOT and their salt brine, but I also blame the concrete and its expansion through the seasons. Where the road turns to asphalt, the jitteriness goes away. But anywhere there is a concrete road, comfort it is not good. Concrete (roads) in Ohio might as well be cobblestone.
 
The CX-5 bounces/jitters like it does because it is essentially a high riding car (hatchback/wagon) that is tuned (compression/rebound) for the street.

It was never designed to float or absorb large suspension movements, such as in off-road driving scenarios) and is therefore stiffly sprung (with corresponding shock performance) to be an "agile" road handler.

The short wheel base probably doesn't help matters either, but the biggest culprit is the spring/shock tuning.

The washboard, concrete that makes up I-75 near us is terrible. 5 miles in either direction from our exit is incredibly jittery. I blame Ohio DOT and their salt brine, but I also blame the concrete and its expansion through the seasons. Where the road turns to asphalt, the jitteriness goes away. But anywhere there is a concrete road, comfort it is not good. Concrete (roads) in Ohio might as well be cobblestone.
Same here in PA. Between the potholes and the worn out highway pavement joints, it's like riding on Mars.

Hoping the 16 inch tires help alleviate and cushion some of the jolt...last resort will be to switch out springs and/or struts/shocks.

This really should not be advertise as an SUV. I have had to make and need to make too many adjustments compared to other suv/trucks I've owned to make this not just offroad worthy but also more comfortable on the highway.

I do like how it handles/hugs the road and corners though.

I like the CX5 but it seems it much better suited to south and west with their smooth roads.
 
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