Winter is here and my CX-5 turbo is now a 2.0L!

An aftermarket tuner (Burger Motorsports) is currently beta testing their JB4. They have stated that they think the restriction is due to MAF limiter. They are currently working on getting MAF control for the CX models and the Mazda6 up and running. I think that once that happens, they may be able to remove or change the limiter (assuming that is what is causing the restriction in the first place).

Here's a link to the thread on n54tech.

 
Exciting news! Have they given you a ballpark delivery date? Any more info on the specs and options you chose? If you decide to reply, would you mind creating a new thread in the Lounge?
They’re estimating 4-5 weeks. All X3’s are made in North Carolina and BMW produces the majority of their own chips. I’ll start a thread in the Lounge after the holidays when work slows down and the delivery draws near.
 
Not interested in reading 29 pages of ish but will say it is Pretty easy to buy a cheap boost gauge and monitor how much boost is being run yourself at any time. Will also say that If your engine isn't warmed up the last thing you would want to do is beat on it whether turbocharged or not. Oil works best in ideal temp range. Don't go beating a cold engine let it get up to temp. Anyways last time I hooked up a boost gauge it costed $15 and took 10 minutes or time for a temp install. Not sure why you can't figure out how to do the same.
 
Not interested in reading 29 pages of ish but will say it is Pretty easy to buy a cheap boost gauge and monitor how much boost is being run yourself at any time. Will also say that If your engine isn't warmed up the last thing you would want to do is beat on it whether turbocharged or not. Oil works best in ideal temp range. Don't go beating a cold engine let it get up to temp. Anyways last time I hooked up a boost gauge it costed $15 and took 10 minutes or time for a temp install. Not sure why you can't figure out how to do the same.
If it were that simple this would’ve been solved 2 years and 28 pages ago.
 
Not interested in reading 29 pages of ish but will say it is Pretty easy to buy a cheap boost gauge and monitor how much boost is being run yourself at any time. Will also say that If your engine isn't warmed up the last thing you would want to do is beat on it whether turbocharged or not. Oil works best in ideal temp range. Don't go beating a cold engine let it get up to temp. Anyways last time I hooked up a boost gauge it costed $15 and took 10 minutes or time for a temp install. Not sure why you can't figure out how to do the same.
Yea, it was probably pretty easy on a 3 in 2003. Not quite that simple on a modern car.
 
Not interested in reading 29 pages of ish but will say it is Pretty easy to buy a cheap boost gauge and monitor how much boost is being run yourself at any time. Will also say that If your engine isn't warmed up the last thing you would want to do is beat on it whether turbocharged or not. Oil works best in ideal temp range. Don't go beating a cold engine let it get up to temp. Anyways last time I hooked up a boost gauge it costed $15 and took 10 minutes or time for a temp install. Not sure why you can't figure out how to do the same.

Just to clarify, the issue is still there even after the engine has been warmed up to operating temps. It only seems to rear it's ugly head under hard acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear, with ambient temperature at 20f (-7c) or colder.
 
I have not experienced this issue with my 2018 CX-9. There is a clear difference in engine behaviour before the engine reaches its operating temp, i am assuming to force the engine to rev higher and get up to temperature faster to prevent oil dilution and carbon build up.

But after that it is operating normally to me. Maybe i don’t push it hard enough to notice a small power difference, but it definitely doesn’t become like a 2.5 NA.
 
I have not experienced this issue with my 2018 CX-9. There is a clear difference in engine behaviour before the engine reaches its operating temp, i am assuming to force the engine to rev higher and get up to temperature faster to prevent oil dilution and carbon build up.

But after that it is operating normally to me. Maybe i don’t push it hard enough to notice a small power difference, but it definitely doesn’t become like a 2.5 NA.

I tried testing it in my CX-9 using the Torque app and a bluetooth OBD2 dongle to track 0-60 (0-100km) speeds. I think I did it last year. I personally don't remember feeling a difference, even when accelerating at WOT, but there was a difference noted in 0-60 times in the Torque app. I have since read that the 0-60 on an app like Torque is not very accurate or consistent, so take that for what it is worth. But the loss in power or 0-60 time is nowhere near as pronounced as it is in the CX-5. I think the difference in feel/performance is partially due to the difference in weight.
 
I tried testing it in my CX-9 using the Torque app and a bluetooth OBD2 dongle to track 0-60 (0-100km) speeds. I think I did it last year. I personally don't remember feeling a difference, even when accelerating at WOT, but there was a difference noted in 0-60 times in the Torque app. I have since read that the 0-60 on an app like Torque is not very accurate or consistent, so take that for what it is worth. But the loss in power or 0-60 time is nowhere near as pronounced as it is in the CX-5. I think the difference in feel/performance is partially due to the difference in weight.
The tech at my dealership who owns a CX9 confirms the issue by feel, if not data.
 
As a follow up to my post on pg 28.

I haven't tried not mashing the throttle, it may be only when you 'pin' it.

Also in 'normal'/'appropriate' driving, it's a non-issue. 3rd Gear and above seems to be full power.
 
Just to clarify, it is in ALL scenarios and ALL vehicle settings/configurations while accelerating in 1st and 2nd gear when it’s below 20 degrees Fahrenheit. The JB4 tuner does not resolve it in its current state of development. I haven’t had the opportunity to log it yet but it feels slower than my ‘14 CX-5. I suspect it is bleeding off 100% of the boost in those gears. As soon as it drops below 20 again I’ll log the data and send it to Burger.
 
I am happy that there are millionaires on this forum.
Looks like the poors have showed up... :p

Joking, but this has always been an interesting statistic to me which I am sure is still pretty true:
Additionally, CX-5 owners earn more money. On average, owners have a median household income of $93,000, compared with $90,130 for the Small SUV segment in general.
 
Just to clarify, it is in ALL scenarios and ALL vehicle settings/configurations while accelerating in 1st and 2nd gear when it’s below 20 degrees Fahrenheit. The JB4 tuner does not resolve it in its current state of development. I haven’t had the opportunity to log it yet but it feels slower than my ‘14 CX-5. I suspect it is bleeding off 100% of the boost in those gears. As soon as it drops below 20 again I’ll log the data and send it to Burger.

I posted somewhere in this thread that appears to be exactly what is happening.
Or, to be more clear, it's not building more than a few pounds of boost in 1st and 2nd gears.
ECU could be limiting the amount the throttle body is opening or it could be the waste gate preventing it (or something else?).

I logged via Bluetooth OBDII adapter and Torque app when I had an extended test drive.
I didn't dig too far into it, just that I noticed boost was low/non-existent in 1st and 2nd gears when below that 20F threshold.

Are you able to log pedal position vs. throttle body position? That would be useful to understand if they (Mazda) are limiting throttle body opening.
 
Back