What have you done to your CX-5 today?

Installed the Corksport short ram intake. The sound of the turbo spooling up and wastegate noise is ridiculous! Attached an audio clip. This is with only 1/3 throttle from a stop.
Ridiculous as in good or bad? Too loud, or what one would expect?
 
Ridiculous as in good or bad? Too loud, or what one would expect?
Sorry, I meant ridiculously good! (In my opinion). It is audible inside the cabin with any heavier throttle input so I wouldnt recommend it to folks that are expecting the extra noise only during spirited driving. The extra noise is frequently there in day-to-day driving.

I was expecting more noise with this intake, but not as much as I received. Not a complaint at all from me- I like it! An aftermarket catback exhaust on the other hand would be too much and I dont think any 4 banger sounds good with one.
 
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Sorry, I meant ridiculously good! (In my opinion). It is audible inside the cabin with any heavier throttle input so I wouldnt recommend it to folks that are expecting the extra noise only during spirited driving. The extra noise is frequently there in day-to-day driving.

I was expecting more noise with this intake, but not as much as I received. Not a complaint at all from me- I like it! An aftermarket catback exhaust on the other hand would be too much and I dont think any 4 banger sounds good with one.

Did you mean “audible inside the cabin withOUT any heavier throttle input” ? Also, what’s the consensus on adding an intake to the 2.5T without any tuning to adjust AFRs and MAF scaling? I ask because coming from Subaru community, on the 2008+ turbo engines it was proven that intake without tune would cause long term problems such has blown ringlands from improper AFRs. I think it really depends on the type of MAF sensor Mazda uses, but I haven’t really researched it at all. Also curious what the old butt dyno feels after you installed this. Throttle response change?
 
Yesterday I installed the Curt class III hitch so I can haul my bikes around. Pretty simple install, definitely needed a helper to lift it into place. Would’ve also been much easier with a lift, but doable on the ground.
 
Did you mean “audible inside the cabin withOUT any heavier throttle input” ? Also, what’s the consensus on adding an intake to the 2.5T without any tuning to adjust AFRs and MAF scaling? I ask because coming from Subaru community, on the 2008+ turbo engines it was proven that intake without tune would cause long term problems such has blown ringlands from improper AFRs. I think it really depends on the type of MAF sensor Mazda uses, but I haven’t really researched it at all. Also curious what the old butt dyno feels after you installed this. Throttle response change?
Subaru is a different world. Remember the CX-5 adjusts everything already for 87 - 93 octane fuel. Subaru didn't adjust for anything, plus those engines seemed to be really finicky. In subaru a tune was everything. Mazda's ecu's are much more flexible. Heck, most ecu's are much more flexible.
 
Did you mean “audible inside the cabin withOUT any heavier throttle input” ? Also, what’s the consensus on adding an intake to the 2.5T without any tuning to adjust AFRs and MAF scaling? I ask because coming from Subaru community, on the 2008+ turbo engines it was proven that intake without tune would cause long term problems such has blown ringlands from improper AFRs. I think it really depends on the type of MAF sensor Mazda uses, but I haven’t really researched it at all. Also curious what the old butt dyno feels after you installed this. Throttle response change?

what the heck? Automotive ECU's have been adjusting for proper air/fuel ratio ever since ECU's were a thing. My 89 Camry did it, my 94 Integra does it, my 00 Miata does it. That's ridiculous if a modern car can't adjust for proper AFR just because an aftermarket intake is added.
 
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Gave her a wash. 👀
 
what the heck? Automotive ECU's have been adjusting for proper air/fuel ratio ever since ECU's were a thing. My 89 Camry did it, my 94 Integra does it, my 00 Miata does it. That's ridiculous if a modern car can't adjust for proper AFR just because an aftermarket intake is added.
Subaru's are one of the most easily tuned vehicles, and the actual code is handed out by subaru. I'm pretty sure they use that as an excuse to tell the tuning community go do it yourself for any mod. The ecu can adjust about 5% or so, which might be enough for an intake if there are no other mods present. But also remember subaru's are favored by lots of very young people who might not be the best drivers and do things that a normal adult would never do, like lug the engine in 6th gear and floor it. Plus not all tunes are the same, and lots of people do these over the internet tunes and some of those tuners are kind of sketchy. Tuners like that have burnt cars to the ground before, so being conservative and always tuning is safer.
 
Added a cheap rear bumper plate protector from Ebay/China.

After cleaning the bumper I noticed some scratches…guess I was too late for the install

We shall see the longevity of the product.
Only thing I like is the reflection of the cx-5

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^^^ That's what I got. 2 dozen 115 degree Phoenix days the last 2 summers, still perfect. - Though it's garaged. Flexible so it folds down over lip and full adhesive back, not just strips of tape.

Here's my previous thread


and the product

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
 
Drove up I-70 through Eisenhower tunnel in Colorado. The turbo's acceleration and passing ability going up those steep and long high-altitude hills exceeded my expectations 👍
 
Drove up I-70 through Eisenhower tunnel in Colorado. The turbo's acceleration and passing ability going up those steep and long high-altitude hills exceeded my expectations 👍
Yes the 2.5T is great! Just remember watch your coolant level, or do the UOA on your used oil from time to time making sure there’s no coolant mixed in there before your powertrain warranty expires ⋯
 
Taking a trip to Crater Lake in a few weeks. Installed Yakima LockNload roof platform (K, 55”x49”), with 4 yakima crossbar clamps, to my existing Yakima 50” jetstreams and Ridgeline towers (the Locknload SL adapters only work for timberline and skyline towers)

highly recommend this as a two person job, but i was able to assemble and place the platform on my roof by myself (about 4 hrs with power tools 😅)

My recommendation is to be careful about crossthreading - a few of the screwholes didn’t match up #yakimaquitycontrol

I was deciding between the yakima megawarrior and yakima offgrid large, but decided on Locknload because of its versatility.

and yes, i can still open the rear hatch fully, even with the spoiler 😎
 

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Changed oil/filter and rotated tires. Since I got home I have noticed some pulsing in the brakes when tapping into them hard. Pulled all the caliper slide pins, they were lubed but the ones with the rubber piece seemed like the rubber had expanded (I'm guessing due to incompatibility with the grease I used). Cleaned those all up and relubed with some Redline synthetic grease. The two pins on the rear calipers still feel a little tight so I'm just going to order some new ones and replace them. While I was doing that I noticed one nut had come off the driver's side sway bar link so the rear sway was disconnected. The link is looking a little tatty so I ordered a couple of new ones and also got some metal lock nuts from Ace to use on the new end links.
 
Installed both new rear sway bar end links that I received yesterday. I'll be keeping an eye on the nuts, I was planning on double-nutting the upper ones (that was the one that fell off) but the Corksport sway tabs are too thick for that.
 
Installed both new rear sway bar end links that I received yesterday. I'll be keeping an eye on the nuts, I was planning on double-nutting the upper ones (that was the one that fell off) but the Corksport sway tabs are too thick for that.
You had no trouble removing rear sway bar end links due to rust on nuts? And was there anything else needed to be removed in the rear suspension to install end links? Are new end links OEM?
 
No, because I have removed them before and used anti-seize on the new ones. Nothing else is required to be removed. Finally, they are aftermarket (Rock Auto) but for a Protege5. I found with the Corksport rear bar that using the stock end links meant the arms on the sway were not level so it wasn't able to work properly. Also, if the vehicle was jacked up and you didn't take care when lowering it again the sway would end up in the wrong position. I did some research and found the 7.5" end links from a Protege5 would give me the level I needed. I mentioned this when I originally installed these and got into a circular discussion with someone on here who didn't grasp what I did and why.
 
How does the Griot's Correcting Cream work on swirls? Hard to tell from your pictures. I don't see mine unless I get close with a bright sun reflecting in the hood. By hand or a with a buffer?
 
How does the Griot's Correcting Cream work on swirls? Hard to tell from your pictures. I don't see mine unless I get close with a bright sun reflecting in the hood. By hand or a with a buffer?
Griots Correcting Cream is a pretty mild polish. Might work in your case, if not, you may need to compound first. I do use a couple of dual action buffers for all of my detailing work. I used white buffing pads for the polish and black for the sealant.
 
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