Front speaker round adapter source?

Great. Thank you for that link. I will get those. A 6.5” will give me a little bit more bass.

Is there much depth to work with in the door?
 
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You have TONS of depth. That's the one thing you absolutely don't have to worry about!

With the drivers I chose, the 7" Dayton Audio RS180P-4, I did have to do some very minor triming of the door plastic after I mounted the rings. And I do emphasize minor. About an 1/8th of an inch at like two spots. I used a Dremel, which made short work of it. Literally seconds.

Depending on which speakers you choose, you may not have to do any trimming at all.
 
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Okay. Those drivers are absolutely, positively, straight up AMAZING, especially for the tiny little bit of money they cost. But...

There's always a but, isn't there?

After Installed the driver, which fit the opening perfectly, the door panel wouldn't go back on. :confused:

Being a 7 instead of a 6.5, the frame is just a bit larger. As such, it hang over the shape of the inner door skin. When you get in there, you'll see what I mean. You are going to have to use that same Dremel, but this time with a cut-off wheel, and trim the frame of the speaker just a bit to get the door panel to go back on.

What I did was mount the speaker, then use painters masking tape to completely cover it.

After that, I make a single straight cut, following the contour of the inner door panel, and zipped off the part of the speaker that was overhanging. The frame is aluminum, so it cuts easily, but it's damned thick, so if you try this *not* using a cutoff wheel and are trying this by hand, you're going to be there a while. There's no way you're going to grind it off, either. You need that cutoff wheel.

Anyway, you're removing a very small edge of the driver, so you're not doing any damage, nor are you even coming anywhere near to where the surround of the cone starts.

Anyway, once you do that, you're golden!

They are midbass drivers only, so you'll still need tweeters. I chose the Dayton ND25FN-4, because they fit perfectly into the factory locations in the sail panels. I'm also running active, so I don't have any crossovers. The mids and tweets are running off of a Kenwood 4 channel amp, and I'm using a Dayton DSP-408 as my crossover.
 
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If you want to get some drivers that sound almost as good, but fit without any modifications, go for some 6.5's. I had the Dayton DC160-4's in there for a while, and they definitely sounded good. But I had screwed up the crossover selection point when I first installed the stereo, and my wife got one a tiny bit crispy with some Missy Elliott! :ROFLMAO: That's when I told myself that since I was going to change them out, I was going to do an upgrade. And while the DC's sound wonderful, and they really do, the RS's are just simply amazing.
 
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Thank you so much theblooms. I toy around with speaker building so I am pretty familiar with PE and Dayton offerings. Very cool on the ND25. I will just get them. I may go with something smaller than the RS’s but I am to too shy about modifying them so we will see.

I have been eyeballing the ceramic SB acoustics offerings so maybe I will try them.
 
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MDF is a terrible idea for a door speaker adapter. It's way too thick so often the speaker sticks out and can hit the door panel. But what's even worse, MDF straight SOAKS up the inherent moisture found inside of a car door and then rots.
 
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MDF is a terrible idea for a door speaker adapter. It's way too thick so often the speaker sticks out and can hit the door panel. But what's even worse, MDF straight SOAKS up the inherent moisture found inside of a car door and then rots.
Honestly I've been doing it this way for years I've never had a single issue! The ones in my eclipse have been in there for almost 5 years now. I rocker guard the crap out of the adapters when I use MDF and literally have never had a swelling issue with it. I love using the MDF adapters because their so much stronger and if attached to the door properly it actually helps the door to stop flexing
 
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Also I do custom stereo installs all the time in my shop I've been into car audio for 18 years now and I've literally never had anybody come back due to the adapters made out of MDF.
 
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Usually the mdf is 3/4", but it is also made in thinner dimensions.

It's always considered excellent for speaker baffles because of the density.
 
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