Okay. Those drivers are absolutely, positively, straight up AMAZING, especially for the tiny little bit of money they cost. But...
There's always a but, isn't there?
After Installed the driver, which fit the opening perfectly, the door panel wouldn't go back on.
Being a 7 instead of a 6.5, the frame is just a bit larger. As such, it hang over the shape of the inner door skin. When you get in there, you'll see what I mean. You are going to have to use that same Dremel, but this time with a cut-off wheel, and trim the frame of the speaker just a bit to get the door panel to go back on.
What I did was mount the speaker, then use painters masking tape to completely cover it.
After that, I make a single straight cut, following the contour of the inner door panel, and zipped off the part of the speaker that was overhanging. The frame is aluminum, so it cuts easily, but it's damned thick, so if you try this *not* using a cutoff wheel and are trying this by hand, you're going to be there a while. There's no way you're going to grind it off, either. You need that cutoff wheel.
Anyway, you're removing a very small edge of the driver, so you're not doing any damage, nor are you even coming anywhere near to where the surround of the cone starts.
Anyway, once you do that, you're golden!
They are midbass drivers only, so you'll still need tweeters. I chose the Dayton ND25FN-4, because they fit perfectly into the factory locations in the sail panels. I'm also running active, so I don't have any crossovers. The mids and tweets are running off of a Kenwood 4 channel amp, and I'm using a Dayton DSP-408 as my crossover.