New owner of a 2011 CX-9 Sport Touring

Hello Mazda fans,

I'm new to brand, but the car is in very good condition (at least visually) and drives smoothly.
I have records for all the services the car had for the last 7 years or so and apart from the regular engine/brake/steering/coolant flushes, all it had replaced was a lower control arms, front wheels bearings and brake pads/rotors re-surfaced/replaced.

The car has 147K miles so my question is, considering the age and millage of the car, is there anything in particular to watch out on these models/year?

Thanks in advance!
 
Lots of gotchas on these, a couple are major, the rest are annoying. Your car had the front bearings done, the rear ones have also been known to fail. The control arms were part of a recall for excessive corrosion.

Search the forum for these topics:
Water pump failure trashes engine
Transfer case (if AWD) eats itself
Sunroof leaks, trashing BCM
Brake booster failures
AC drain likes to clog and kill the HVAC blower
Power window motors
HVAC blower relay sticks
 
Hello and welcome @shadow338! Congrats on the CX-9 and becoming a Mazda Owner. Great question, you've certainly come to the right place to find out more, hope you enjoy your CX-9 and the Forums! 😁
 
@jal142 thanks!

Well, two things I can discard for now as my CX-9 has neither of those:

"Transfer case (if AWD) eats itself
Sunroof leaks, trashing BCM"


Now, funny you mentioned the power window motor as I see they were serviced back in 2018 both the driver's and passenger front window regulator/motor.

Regarding "leaks", they also cleaned and removed 3 gal of water from the evaporator. (not sure if this means other problems in the future or not).

Back in 2018 as well, the previous owner also reported hard/difficult/slow braking, so they replaced the brake booster as it was leaking air.

So all this seems very aligned with all the possible things that break listed by @jal142 .

I'm really enjoying my "new" CX-9 so far. Thank you!
 
I loved my Saab 9-5 wagon and there really nothing that filled that niche after my gf totaled it in the snow. The LPT V6 was a joy to drive, even if was built on a Opel platform. The ventilated leather seats were awesome and the "night mode" dimming of the instrument panel isn't something I've seen elsewhere. Comfortable with little turbo lag. Sigh. It had quirks, but I just dug it immensely.

In 2013, I was faced with the decision to buy a new car. I snagged a 2011 CX-9 AWD GT as a CPO with something like 20k miles on it. I hate the "car buying experience", I hate dealing with dealers, and the Mazda worked with the least amount of aggravation. My car is transportation and that's it. I don't treat them like iPhones with the need to discard them regularly for the new shiny.

Unfortunately, I wasn't aware of some of the sub-optimal design decisions until later. Like a few months ago later. That said, I'm still holding onto it for another 1.5 or 2 years. I work from home, drive infrequently, can tow occasionally if I need to, and can fit all my bass gear in it to play gigs. It drives well enough. My calculus for fix vs unload is probably in the minority, but I'll give you my thoughts. I'm current at 90k miles.

The annoyances you can live with:
  • Headlights. They are really not great at night and I haven't found an aftermarket solution to augment their brightness in an elegant, painless way. Having them polished periodically does help. Just live with it.
  • Brakes. They are anemic for a vehicle of this size. Stopping power isn't spectacular, so make sure you don't follow too closely. I swapped the OEMs for PowerStop Z17s. They're low-dust, quiet, don't rust, and have good stopping power. About $264.00 for the front and rear set plus installation. It's improved the driving experience to a noticeable and pleasant degree.
  • Wind noise. As the door seals and run channels age, they become deformed and increase wind noise at high speed. I recommend changing them. Cheap and improves sound level. But it's not mandatory.
  • Sh!t audio system with terrible speakers. The door speakers are basically woofers and not durable. I had these replaced with aftermarkets. Much, much better. Probably bypass the whole Bose setup next year.
  • The antique navigation system/audio head. Had that replaced with a greatly improved Pioneer. It's awesome. I have Apple CarPlay, much better Bluetooth sound quality, and other cool features. All integrated with the stock steering wheel controls and it doesn't kill the AC system or in-dash clock. Also had some Dynamat applied to the door panels and floor to cut back on resonance and road noise. I have no delusions about making it as quiet as the gen 2 CX9's or a Lexus, but it's greatly lowered the noise floor in the cabin.
Potentially catastrophic things to keep in mind:
  • PTU/PTO/Front differential. The PTU lifetime fill claim is a damn lie. Mine started failing at about 90k and took the tranny out with worn down splines. The issue is the piddly amount of oil that it contains (16 oz or so, IIRC) and its proximity to the transmission and catalytic converter. A small volume of lubricant adjacent with little clearance leads to incredibly hot components will cook the oil into a sludge, completely destroying it. Had I known to change the fluid regularly, probably could have avoided that and other owners have confirmed good luck with regular fluid swamps. There's no drain plug, only a fill plug and that fill plug is hard to reach. You need a mechanic who knows how to do a fluid change or take it to a tranny shop every 10k or so. That part alone runs $800-$1000 and it can't be rebuilt. It's a sealed unit that needs to be replaced in its entirety. It's also a PITA to get out, so labor isn't cheap. Fluid changes are absolutely critical for longevity. This also affects certain Ford vehicle, as the drive train shares components. You also have the rear diff fluid changed regularly.
  • Transmission. It's an AW21/AWF21/TF-81C by Aisin-Warner, which is pretty reliable. But it's not perfect. There are reported issue with a servo pin fracturing, which can cause slippage. The valve body is subject to excessive wear. Again, this is another "lifetime fill" part, which is a load of $hit. You need to have the pan dropped and fluid changed about every 50k. Maybe 80k. While you're doing that, you might as well have the valve body and solenoids checked for wear. But don't let this terrify you or lead you to believe the transmission is fragile.
  • Water pump. To fit the engine, the pump is actually located behind the timing chain cover. When it leaks, it dumps coolant in the oil pan. This turns the oil into a milky substance that can cause serious damage. Often times, you won't see the temperature gauge spike as a warning. Leaks start small and you'll see it in the oil. Since it's behind the timing chain cover, you probably won't see the drips hatting the pavement. Check the dipstick and do regular oil changes. The water pump is PITA to reach, making the labor expensive. You have to dismantle the top of the engine to get to it. Have this, the timing chain components, and the engine gaskets all done at the same time. Parts are inexpensive. It's the labor that's not. I recommended doing this at around 90k. Certainly no later than 100k. This will run you between $1300 and $1600.
As other people have pointed out, the lifters for the windows like to fail periodically. It's not expensive to fix, but still aggravating. I've had them fail once before 90k miles.

Haven't noticed sunroof leaks. I may look at replacing gaskets to prevent this.

No AC leaks, but I did have to replace the passenger side blower. Again, this isn't expensive.

What I've spent this year for maintenance for major items, which is not awful for a car with 90k miles:

  1. Transmission rebuild and PTU replacement: $4200.00 for parts and labor from a reputable local transmission shop. Don't use a dealer. They'll just want to do a full tranny swap. Have it rebuilt to save money. Some of the "remanufactured" transmissions aren't always done properly -- Jasper sends out some real turds. Yes, it was expensive, but the drive train is so much better. Feels like a new car and I can now do regular fluid exchanges to preserve my investment.
  2. Water pump, timing chain components, and engine gaskets: $1600.00 for labor and parts. Again, preventative insurance. Much cheaper than having your engine seize up on the highway.
  3. Some body work to fit the paint and small dents: $500.00.
  4. Full detail including interior and engine compartment: $280.00. Totally optional, but it made the car look like it just got off the dealer lot.
Most the forum members here are going to go ape$hit and claim I'm out of my mind for dumping that much cash into a 10 year-old vehicle with 90k miles on it. First of all, the trans rebuild and PTU replacement is because I failed to maintain both with fluid swaps. You do that and you won't have to part with a large chunk of change because it won't blow up. Water pump change you can do every 100k, so amortized over the life of the car, it's not awful.

New and used cars are insanely overpriced at the moment. I like having no car payment. What I would have spent a down payment sets my vehicle up for another 100k. And the car looks and drives great. For my budget and expectations on how long I'm keeping it, it makes sense.

I also recommend regularly changing coolant with a flush, brake fluid, and steering fluid. Again, not something you do all the time.

Keep all that in mind and do regular oil changes and the total cost of ownership is reasonable.

I'll likely get the brake booster looked at it.

So those are my thoughts.
 
Last edited:
I loved my Saab 9-5 wagon and there really nothing that filled that niche after my gf totaled it in the snow. The LPT V6 was a joy to drive, even if was built on a Opel platform. The ventilated leather seats were awesome and the "night mode" dimming of the instrument panel isn't something I've seen elsewhere. Comfortable with little turbo lag. Sigh. It had quirks, but I just dug it immensely.

In 2013, I was faced with the decision to buy a new car. I snagged a 2011 CX-9 AWD GT as a CPO with something like 20k miles on it. I hate the "car buying experience", I hate dealing with dealers, and the Mazda worked with the least amount of aggravation. My car is transportation and that's it. I don't treat them like iPhones with the need to discard them regularly for the new shiny.

Unfortunately, I wasn't aware of some of the sub-optimal design decisions until later. Like a few months ago later. That said, I'm still holding onto it for another 1.5 or 2 years. I work from home, drive infrequently, can tow occasionally if I need to, and can fit all my bass gear in it to play gigs. It drives well enough. My calculus for fix vs unload is probably in the minority, but I'll give you my thoughts. I'm current at 90k miles.

The annoyances you can live with:
  • Headlights. They are really not great at night and I haven't found an aftermarket solution to augment their brightness in an elegant, painless way. Having them polished periodically does help. Just live with it.
  • Brakes. They are anemic for a vehicle of this size. Stopping power isn't spectacular, so make sure you don't follow too closely. I swapped the OEMs for PowerStop Z17s. They're low-dust, quiet, don't rust, and have good stopping power. About $264.00 for the front and rear set plus installation. It's improved the driving experience to a noticeable and pleasant degree.
  • Wind noise. As the door seals and run channels age, they become deformed and increase wind noise at high speed. I recommend changing them. Cheap and improves sound level. But it's not mandatory.
  • Sh!t audio system with terrible speakers. The door speakers are basically woofers and not durable. I had these replaced with aftermarkets. Much, much better. Probably bypass the whole Bose setup next year.
  • The antique navigation system/audio head. Had that replaced with a greatly improved Pioneer. It's awesome. I have Apple CarPlay, much better Bluetooth sound quality, and other cool features. All integrated with the stock steering wheel controls and it doesn't kill the AC system or in-dash clock. Also had some Dynamat applied to the door panels and floor to cut back on resonance and road noise. I have no delusions about making it as quiet as the gen 2 CX9's or a Lexus, but it's greatly lowered the noise floor in the cabin.
Potentially catastrophic things to keep in mind:
  • PTU/PTO/Front differential. The PTU lifetime fill claim is a damn lie. Mine started failing at about 90k and took the tranny out with worn down splines. The issue is the piddly amount of oil that it contains (16 oz or so, IIRC) and its proximity to the transmission and catalytic converter. A small volume of lubricant adjacent with little clearance leads to incredibly hot components will cook the oil into a sludge, completely destroying it. Had I known to change the fluid regularly, probably could have avoided that and other owners have confirmed good luck with regular fluid swamps. There's no drain plug, only a fill plug and that fill plug is hard to reach. You need a mechanic who knows how to do a fluid change or take it to a tranny shop every 10k or so. That part alone runs $800-$1000 and it can't be rebuilt. It's a sealed unit that needs to be replaced in its entirety. It's also a PITA to get out, so labor isn't cheap. Fluid changes are absolutely critical for longevity. This also affects certain Ford vehicle, as the drive train shares components. You also have the rear diff fluid changed regularly.
  • Transmission. It's an AW21/AWF21/TF-81C by Aisin-Warner, which is pretty reliable. But it's not perfect. There are reported issue with a servo pin fracturing, which can cause slippage. The valve body is subject to excessive wear. Again, this is another "lifetime fill" part, which is a load of $hit. You need to have the pan dropped and fluid changed about every 50k. Maybe 80k. While you're doing that, you might as well have the valve body and solenoids checked for wear. But don't let this terrify you or lead you to believe the transmission is fragile.
  • Water pump. To fit the engine, the pump is actually located behind the timing chain cover. When it leaks, it dumps coolant in the oil pan. This turns the oil into a milky substance that can cause serious damage. Often times, you won't see the temperature gauge spike as a warning. Leaks start small and you'll see it in the oil. Since it's behind the timing chain cover, you probably won't see the drips hatting the pavement. Check the dipstick and do regular oil changes. The water pump is PITA to reach, making the labor expensive. You have to dismantle the top of the engine to get to it. Have this, the timing chain components, and the engine gaskets all done at the same time. Parts are inexpensive. It's the labor that's not. I recommended doing this at around 90k. Certainly no later than 100k. This will run you between $1300 and $1600.
As other people have pointed out, the lifters for the windows like to fail periodically. It's not expensive to fix, but still aggravating. I've had them fail once before 90k miles.

Haven't noticed sunroof leaks. I may look at replacing gaskets to prevent this.

No AC leaks, but I did have to replace the passenger side blower. Again, this isn't expensive.

What I've spent this year for maintenance for major items, which is not awful for a car with 90k miles:

  1. Transmission rebuild and PTU replacement: $4200.00 for parts and labor from a reputable local transmission shop. Don't use a dealer. They'll just want to do a full tranny swap. Have it rebuilt to save money. Some of the "remanufactured" transmissions aren't always done properly -- Jasper sends out some real turds. Yes, it was expensive, but the drive train is so much better. Feels like a new car and I can now do regular fluid exchanges to preserve my investment.
  2. Water pump, timing chain components, and engine gaskets: $1600.00 for labor and parts. Again, preventative insurance. Much cheaper than having your engine seize up on the highway.
  3. Some body work to fit the paint and small dents: $500.00.
  4. Full detail including interior and engine compartment: $280.00. Totally optional, but it made the car look like it just got off the dealer lot.
Most the forum members here are going to go ape$hit and claim I'm out of my mind for dumping that much cash into a 10 year-old vehicle with 90k miles on it. First of all, the trans rebuild and PTU replacement is because I failed to maintain both with fluid swaps. You do that and you won't have to part with a large chunk of change because it won't blow up. Water pump change you can do every 100k, so amortized over the life of the car, it's not awful.

New and used cars are insanely overpriced at the moment. I like having no car payment. What I would have spent a down payment sets my vehicle up for another 100k. And the car looks and drives great. For my budget and expectations on how long I'm keeping it, it makes sense.

I also recommend regularly changing coolant with a flush, brake fluid, and steering fluid. Again, not something you do all the time.

Keep all that in mind and do regular oil changes and the total cost of ownership is reasonable.

I'll likely get the brake booster looked at it.

So those are my thoughts.
This is great feedback!
Man, I'm starting to miss my 2003 Saab 9-3 which had nothing major for 8 years that I owned it...
Anyways, I have one question, is that trans rebuild and PTU replacement applies to the non AWD models?

Thanks!
 
The transmissions on FWD models have not been problematic, based on the lack of posts this forum. I have the fluid swapped at a garage every 60k or so.
 
I loved my Saab 9-5 wagon and there really nothing that filled that niche after my gf totaled it in the snow. The LPT V6 was a joy to drive, even if was built on a Opel platform. The ventilated leather seats were awesome and the "night mode" dimming of the instrument panel isn't something I've seen elsewhere. Comfortable with little turbo lag. Sigh. It had quirks, but I just dug it immensely.

In 2013, I was faced with the decision to buy a new car. I snagged a 2011 CX-9 AWD GT as a CPO with something like 20k miles on it. I hate the "car buying experience", I hate dealing with dealers, and the Mazda worked with the least amount of aggravation. My car is transportation and that's it. I don't treat them like iPhones with the need to discard them regularly for the new shiny.

Unfortunately, I wasn't aware of some of the sub-optimal design decisions until later. Like a few months ago later. That said, I'm still holding onto it for another 1.5 or 2 years. I work from home, drive infrequently, can tow occasionally if I need to, and can fit all my bass gear in it to play gigs. It drives well enough. My calculus for fix vs unload is probably in the minority, but I'll give you my thoughts. I'm current at 90k miles.

The annoyances you can live with:
  • Headlights. They are really not great at night and I haven't found an aftermarket solution to augment their brightness in an elegant, painless way. Having them polished periodically does help. Just live with it.
  • Brakes. They are anemic for a vehicle of this size. Stopping power isn't spectacular, so make sure you don't follow too closely. I swapped the OEMs for PowerStop Z17s. They're low-dust, quiet, don't rust, and have good stopping power. About $264.00 for the front and rear set plus installation. It's improved the driving experience to a noticeable and pleasant degree.
  • Wind noise. As the door seals and run channels age, they become deformed and increase wind noise at high speed. I recommend changing them. Cheap and improves sound level. But it's not mandatory.
  • Sh!t audio system with terrible speakers. The door speakers are basically woofers and not durable. I had these replaced with aftermarkets. Much, much better. Probably bypass the whole Bose setup next year.
  • The antique navigation system/audio head. Had that replaced with a greatly improved Pioneer. It's awesome. I have Apple CarPlay, much better Bluetooth sound quality, and other cool features. All integrated with the stock steering wheel controls and it doesn't kill the AC system or in-dash clock. Also had some Dynamat applied to the door panels and floor to cut back on resonance and road noise. I have no delusions about making it as quiet as the gen 2 CX9's or a Lexus, but it's greatly lowered the noise floor in the cabin.
Potentially catastrophic things to keep in mind:
  • PTU/PTO/Front differential. The PTU lifetime fill claim is a damn lie. Mine started failing at about 90k and took the tranny out with worn down splines. The issue is the piddly amount of oil that it contains (16 oz or so, IIRC) and its proximity to the transmission and catalytic converter. A small volume of lubricant adjacent with little clearance leads to incredibly hot components will cook the oil into a sludge, completely destroying it. Had I known to change the fluid regularly, probably could have avoided that and other owners have confirmed good luck with regular fluid swamps. There's no drain plug, only a fill plug and that fill plug is hard to reach. You need a mechanic who knows how to do a fluid change or take it to a tranny shop every 10k or so. That part alone runs $800-$1000 and it can't be rebuilt. It's a sealed unit that needs to be replaced in its entirety. It's also a PITA to get out, so labor isn't cheap. Fluid changes are absolutely critical for longevity. This also affects certain Ford vehicle, as the drive train shares components. You also have the rear diff fluid changed regularly.
  • Transmission. It's an AW21/AWF21/TF-81C by Aisin-Warner, which is pretty reliable. But it's not perfect. There are reported issue with a servo pin fracturing, which can cause slippage. The valve body is subject to excessive wear. Again, this is another "lifetime fill" part, which is a load of $hit. You need to have the pan dropped and fluid changed about every 50k. Maybe 80k. While you're doing that, you might as well have the valve body and solenoids checked for wear. But don't let this terrify you or lead you to believe the transmission is fragile.
  • Water pump. To fit the engine, the pump is actually located behind the timing chain cover. When it leaks, it dumps coolant in the oil pan. This turns the oil into a milky substance that can cause serious damage. Often times, you won't see the temperature gauge spike as a warning. Leaks start small and you'll see it in the oil. Since it's behind the timing chain cover, you probably won't see the drips hatting the pavement. Check the dipstick and do regular oil changes. The water pump is PITA to reach, making the labor expensive. You have to dismantle the top of the engine to get to it. Have this, the timing chain components, and the engine gaskets all done at the same time. Parts are inexpensive. It's the labor that's not. I recommended doing this at around 90k. Certainly no later than 100k. This will run you between $1300 and $1600.
As other people have pointed out, the lifters for the windows like to fail periodically. It's not expensive to fix, but still aggravating. I've had them fail once before 90k miles.

Haven't noticed sunroof leaks. I may look at replacing gaskets to prevent this.

No AC leaks, but I did have to replace the passenger side blower. Again, this isn't expensive.

What I've spent this year for maintenance for major items, which is not awful for a car with 90k miles:

  1. Transmission rebuild and PTU replacement: $4200.00 for parts and labor from a reputable local transmission shop. Don't use a dealer. They'll just want to do a full tranny swap. Have it rebuilt to save money. Some of the "remanufactured" transmissions aren't always done properly -- Jasper sends out some real turds. Yes, it was expensive, but the drive train is so much better. Feels like a new car and I can now do regular fluid exchanges to preserve my investment.
  2. Water pump, timing chain components, and engine gaskets: $1600.00 for labor and parts. Again, preventative insurance. Much cheaper than having your engine seize up on the highway.
  3. Some body work to fit the paint and small dents: $500.00.
  4. Full detail including interior and engine compartment: $280.00. Totally optional, but it made the car look like it just got off the dealer lot.
Most the forum members here are going to go ape$hit and claim I'm out of my mind for dumping that much cash into a 10 year-old vehicle with 90k miles on it. First of all, the trans rebuild and PTU replacement is because I failed to maintain both with fluid swaps. You do that and you won't have to part with a large chunk of change because it won't blow up. Water pump change you can do every 100k, so amortized over the life of the car, it's not awful.

New and used cars are insanely overpriced at the moment. I like having no car payment. What I would have spent a down payment sets my vehicle up for another 100k. And the car looks and drives great. For my budget and expectations on how long I'm keeping it, it makes sense.

I also recommend regularly changing coolant with a flush, brake fluid, and steering fluid. Again, not something you do all the time.

Keep all that in mind and do regular oil changes and the total cost of ownership is reasonable.

I'll likely get the brake booster looked at it.

So those are my thoughts.
What pioneer system did you use to replace factory? It sucks!! Thanks
 
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