Installed Morimoto Elite HID (non-xenon pkg)

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2013 Mazda CX-5 Touring Zeal Red/Moonroof pkg
I know a lot of people don't like aftermarket HIDs. I totally agree that the correct way is to do a projector retrofit.
There are all sorts of things people put in their car in socal here, purple blue green HID in halogen reflector housing, red blue green CCFL angel eye etc.
The kit I got was Morimoto H11 elite,35W, 4300k, and I did not do the fog light, so please no harsh word here, just sharing experience and mods here. (lol2)

The OEM halogen in the CX-5 are very bright in my view, but I was originally thinking about getting the LED for the DRL/High Beam. Went in and checked with iJDMtoys, they admitted the LED will only light on dim with low power DRL, but will emit full power at high beam, saw the demonstration there and the color is very white to me. Problem with that is I almost never use high beam, LED doesn't improve light output and for visual only, if somehow wired to make the LED to work full power at DRL, the reflector housing will blind on coming traffic because you are on highbeam. Someone here said LED runs at low voltage will shorten the life of the LEDs. iJDMtoys also claim that all other models are like that such as Lexus IS, Acura TSX, Honda Civic which use DRL/high beam set up. For 55 bucks,I think doesn't worth the money. I rather just turn on the HID low beam all the time then.

I read and heard a lot about DDM turning, both good and bad. Due to my background from Subaru, I decided to get a set of morimoto to improve the intensity further more and give the light a bit more whitish, got 10% off, free shipping from LightWerkz. TRS is another major source, but lightwerkz did more retrofit work on subaru at the beginning, I know them a bit better.

The result looks very OEM from outside, light output was definitely improved. Color is a bit more white than the OEM halogen, still a bit yellowish with no tint of blue at all. Light intensity on the road is far better, I can see the signs more clear than before. Beam cutoff were the same, no way compare to OEM HID projectors. I checked the glare which is about the same as original, according to other forums, if glare is your problem, u can try to bend the metal pieces inside the housing to minimize the glare issue, or do a retrofit to get the best beam cutoff pattern and light output. Personally, glare is very minimal in our CX-5 projector and definitely not as big issue as those people driving with their high beam on without noticing themselves.(boom02)

Little notes on installation:
1. Took me more than 30 mins because the power hardness didn't fit perfectly inside the factory OEM bulb harness, I had to remove a small plastic housing to give more clearance.
2. Remove the headlight will give you way easier installation.
3. Although there are a lot of space under the hood, finding a spot to bolt the ballast instead of ziptied it took me more time than expected.
4. Remove the battery before doing any work, remove negative and then remove positive.
5. Test the system before tie down everything.
6. Get the 35W HID, a lot of people had problem with 55W system.

Picture:
IMG_9375_zpsfafaecaa.jpg
 
Personally, glare is very minimal in our CX-5 projector and definitely not as big issue as those people driving with their high beam on without noticing themselves.

As a fellow driver on the road I'm not sure that is really comforting that the setup isn't as annoying driving towards as someone driving with their high beams on. That's not really the measure I'd go for.

Personally I'll take an occasional person not realizing they have their brights on over a string of cars with 'custom' headlights all glaring and reducing what I can see 100% of the time.
 
I agree if they come with projectors already and using the right lumen and power it is not that bad. I just can't stand non projector Xenon cars, is so scattered and blinds all drivers.

btw did you get the HD relay or stand alone CANbus?
 
the dealer wanted like $2Gs for the tech package and trufully, the only thing good out of that pckg was the HID. I skipped it and plan on getting a HID kit from TRS just like you. $150 and you are done. Sure you are missing the self-leveling/adaptive mechanism, but i think most of us can live without that. On our mazda projectors, the HID kits work fairly well. Its not as sharp as HID projectors, but that is more obvious to the driver than the oncoming traffic. It doesn't blind or scatter the light, so i think its a great upgrade. I did the same with my old Mazda3.

TRS in the past also made clear lenses which make the light optically even better with the correct cut offs and nice bluish cut off line. It was made for the Mazda3 projector, but it required opening up the housing which i don't want to attempt at all.
 
I agree if they come with projectors already and using the right lumen and power it is not that bad. I just can't stand non projector Xenon cars, is so scattered and blinds all drivers.

btw did you get the HD relay or stand alone CANbus?

it's just the HD relay, the CANbus are more for european cars.
 
I parked next to my x-roommate's 09 BMW 328i, his OEM HID is about the same brightness as my HID(which I am pretty surprise), I would agree his HID has a bit better edge color(blueish purple) and cutoff, but mine wan't that far off. However, I decided to keep OEM halogen fog light and halogen high beam, this pretty much covers all I need for any condition.
 
Have you driven in the rain with these yet? I am curious if they improve your visibility or make them worse by bouncing a lot of light off the wet pavement.

Do you have any other pictures or video?
 
it's just the HD relay, the CANbus are more for european cars.

thanks.

btw, I have VVME 35W HID kit on my audi A4 for 4+ years, it doesn't flicker and one bulb went out after 2.5 years, so that brand is not too bad also, but for my CX5 I'll give these Morimoto a try.
 
Little notes on installation:
1. Took me more than 30 mins because the power hardness didn't fit perfectly inside the factory OEM bulb harness, I had to remove a small plastic housing to give more clearance.
2. Remove the headlight will give you way easier installation.
3. Although there are a lot of space under the hood, finding a spot to bolt the ballast instead of ziptied it took me more time than expected.
4. Remove the battery before doing any work, remove negative and then remove positive.
5. Test the system before tie down everything.
6. Get the 35W HID, a lot of people had problem with 55W system.



Can you post some pics of where you install the ballast?
 
quick note

I used the original H11 gasket instead of the one came with the kit bulb, fits much better, no trimming needed

mounting, passenger side is tight so I mounted next to the windshield washer bottle using one of the unused welded nut, M6
IMG_7843.JPG

the one on driver side, I've mounted way down low, there is an unused M8 welded nut.
IMG_7845.JPG

I hope this helps.easy mod.

(note this is VVMW kit I have for my other car that I didn't get to install, but install should be similar to Morimoto since they all come with brackets)
 
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I got the Morimoto 6000k Bulbs.....And using DDM 35W Ballasts..with DDM Relay Harness.

Such an awesome HID Bulb...lights up everything really well!
 
Have you driven in the rain with these yet? I am curious if they improve your visibility or make them worse by bouncing a lot of light off the wet pavement.

Do you have any other pictures or video?

Sorry for poor picture quality, and finally it rained last weekend. Although it was not raining while I took the picture, but the floor is a bit wet, hope this help, or I will try another time when it rains badly.

DSC_0084.jpg


DSC_0087.jpg
 
Have you driven in the rain with these yet? I am curious if they improve your visibility or make them worse by bouncing a lot of light off the wet pavement.

Do you have any other pictures or video?

I used to have 120W PIAA Fog light system on my subaru which is way brighter than any HID system, it does reflect the white light on the wet floor. I personally think that when it comes to rain, seeing more doesn't mean it's better. my 2 cents.
 
Morimoto Installed

When you installed the Morimoto kit, did you cut off all the extra wires that were not used to help eliminate the clutter?
 
I know this is a bit old, but just wondering... Did you buy the regular H11 kit or the XB35? I've been reading about the light and H11 for some cars will have a "shadow" due to the ground wire or something like that, where as XB35 won't but it's just specifics to some cars. So I'm just wanting to make sure if I need to get H11 or XB35
 
Does the CX-5 need capacitors to run properly without flicker or 1 turning on and the other not turning on? I have a 35W kit from a previous kit and will use new H11 35W bulbs. Thanks in advance!
 
Does the CX-5 need capacitors to run properly without flicker or 1 turning on and the other not turning on? I have a 35W kit from a previous kit and will use new H11 35W bulbs. Thanks in advance!

Flickering usually depends on the ballast. It would be nice to have a relay harness though so it draws power directly from the battery.



Can anyone answer my question, does this car use H11 or XB35 H11 from TRS? Difference is that some cars with regular H11 will have a ground wire shadow whereas XB35 H11 fixes the problem, but doesn't apply to all cars. XB35 cost $20 more, so I want to know if I need to pay the extra or can I just get a standard H11 kit.
 
Can't you ask TRS themselves? They are super easy to deal with and very knowledgeable.

I got the DDM kit and it works OK but not particularly happy with it. No ground shadow, but it is bluer than I like (I got supposed 4500K bulbs that act like 6000K ones). Plus they advertise at $30 for the kit, then sting you on shipping. After getting this I read some more on ballast comparisons. Apparently one of the effects of cheaper ballasts is less power/voltage that can cause your bulbs to be underrun and produce bluer light than they should - so I'm wondering if that's my issue.

Anyway, I have bought from TRS before (other car) and been nothing but happy with their help, support and quality of merchandise. Just another case of "you get what you pay for".
 
Can't you ask TRS themselves? They are super easy to deal with and very knowledgeable.

I got the DDM kit and it works OK but not particularly happy with it. No ground shadow, but it is bluer than I like (I got supposed 4500K bulbs that act like 6000K ones). Plus they advertise at $30 for the kit, then sting you on shipping. After getting this I read some more on ballast comparisons. Apparently one of the effects of cheaper ballasts is less power/voltage that can cause your bulbs to be underrun and produce bluer light than they should - so I'm wondering if that's my issue.

Anyway, I have bought from TRS before (other car) and been nothing but happy with their help, support and quality of merchandise. Just another case of "you get what you pay for".

You told me to ask, I asked them. They are just assuming and not knowing which bulb is it (3Five H11 or XB35 H11). This is why I'm asking on this forum where the user actually installed a set of Morimoto HID on it, just wasn't clear did he used 3Five H11 or XB35 H11.
 
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