Help deck my 2nd gen 98 protege

[Dreadlox]

So, I'm a total noob when it comes to car audio, but I've been looking around a bit recently, as the stock system in my 2nd gen 98 protege is horrific sounding.

I checked out the stickies here, and looked around at crutchfield.com and cardomain.com

So, I was looking at new front door speakers, which are 6.5", and crutchfield says the kenwoods are the only ones that fit besides components, while cardomain lists tons as fitting. I asked crutchfield why the others wouldn't fit and they said the factory grill was too close to the speaker, and to install any other speakers, I'd have to remove the grill.

Who's right, and if I have to remove the grill, is that something I could do, or is it best left to the professionals?

I really wanted to spend $600 or so, and professional stuff like that will eat away at my budget.

Best I can tell, for my budget, a new headunit, amp, and front door speakers is the way to go? Any recommendations or help would be greatly appreciated.

Oh and another thing, when I use my power windows or locks, the headlights dim...what causes this, and is this something I need to fix before I upgrade the audio?

 

[chuyler1]

Hopefully you checked out the $500 audio challenge. You will find some good equipment listed there that will help you build your system.

There is a work around for the factory grill mounting limitations that applies to almost all new cars with plastic door panels. I'm pretty sure it applies to the 98 protege but I don't own one so I can't confirm that. Basically on the back of the panel there is a plastic ring that lines up with the factory speaker. This helps the sound travel through the grill instead of bouncing around inside the car. You can trim this ring off with a utility knife and it will give you an extra 1/2" to 1-1/2" of surface mounting room. I did this on my Protege5 and was able to install a 1/2" mdf baffle to mount a 6.5" speaker onto (since the openings were 5x7").

Crutchfield bases their speaker recommendations on direct plug-and-play options. If the door panel has to be modified, even the slightest bit, they won't recommend the speaker.

I know this may sound like alot of work, but you should remove the door panel before purchasing anything. Measure the mounting depth, the cutout diameter, and check for that plastic ring I mentioned. Once you have this information in your hand, you can choose speakers accordingly. In short, don't rely on Crutchfield to do your dirty work.

 

[Dreadlox]

Thanks so much for the reply, I did check out the $500 audio guide, and learned a lot. Before that, I had planned on getting rear speakers. Well, I know better now.

Ok, so I just messed around with the door panels for a good 20 minutes and got a good feel for how to take them off and put them back on pretty quickly.

It does have that plastic ring you mentioned, but the thickness varies from about .8 inches up to 1 inch. I've got a dremel, so removing that ring is no problem.

I don't understand how to get the measurements for the mounting depth and cutout diameter. I took some pictures while I was messing around, and got some measurements, but I don't know what is what. The stock speakers are 6.5" wide, the part of the grill that has holes in it that go all the way through is the same width as the speaker, but the part that has holes that look like they go through but don't is much larger. Is mounting depth behind the metal (where the magnet and wires go) or between the screws and the surface of the grill?

Worst case scenario, can't I just order from the place that claims it fits, test it to see if it fits, then if it doesn't, I can just send it back and say they mislisted it as fitting?


EDIT: I just remembered I have some older audio stuff, I don't know if its even worth using.

Pioneer 400W Max Power GM-X374 Bridgeable 4 Channel Power Amp (35w x 4 @ 4ohm, 100w x 2 @ 4 ohm)

Jensen CD2010X (30w x 4) AM/FM/CD Reciever w/ removable faceplate.

Neither of those have any cables or anything, and I don't know what I'd need to install them, or if its even worth it. Opinions/advice ?

 

[chuyler1]

Mounting Cutout diameter is the distance across the opening that the speaker goes in. Most 6.5" should fit in your hole but sometimes a particular brand will make them bigger and that would require extra work to install.

Mounting depth is the distance from the mounting hole to anything behind it. In front doors, the depth is usually determined by how far away the window is when it is rolled down.

The pioneer amp and jensen cd player are a nice start to your system. I didn't look up the specs but you should be able to hook them up together along with a new set of speakers for the front and possibly some for the rear (although I'd recommend a subwoofer instead of rear speakers...but that will cost more).

To hook up the cd player you will need two wiring harnesses. One comes with the cd player and connects to the back. If you don't have this, you'll have to order it from Jensen. The other wiring harness can be purchased just about anywhere that sells car audio gear. Combine both harnesses so you can connect all the wires from your Jensen head unit to the factory wiring harness. There is a list of wiring harnesses in the sticky threads.

To hook up the amplifier, you will need an amplifier wiring kit and some additional speaker wire (usually not included in the kit). A 10 gauge kit would be fine but I'd recommend an 8 gauge kit. Do a search for "amplifier installation" on this forum or google to find out what is involved.

If you are not comfortable with 12v electronics then I'd recommend paying a shop to do it...just don't go to BestBuy, Circuit City, or any other big-box store. A specialty shop will take better care of your car.

 

[neoturner]

i've got 3 month old alpines that would be an upgrade to your system that I was getting ready to put on the FS post.

I'll sell you both pairs for 100 + shipping. I paid 160.

Alpine S series sps690A 6x9's
sps 570A 5x7's

50W RPS (what they actually can handle and what your 4 channel amp actually puts out by the way)

If you are looking for a low maintenance upgrade. new speakers and an amp is a good start.

that 4 channel amp would power them perfectly. I have the same power running to them now.

Not sure bout the 98 but I would imagine they would fit in there. I might hop over there and check.

 

[neoturner]

Looking at your door and based on the speaker sizes for the different generations I'd say you have a 98 first gen? In either case your rear speakers are a direct swap. 2nd gen's are supposed to have a 5x7 front but you appear to have a 6.5 in hole there.

the front speakers can be mounted with an adapter I believe. At any rate that hole is sufficient.

 

[Dreadlox]

Well, I just looked up the reviews of the cd player and amp I have, and it looks like the CD player belongs in the trash. Oh well.

Thanks for the offer neoturner, but I'm looking for 6.5's for the front, and I'll probably leave the stock 6x9's till I do a later upgrade.

So... $600 for a new cd player, front speakers, and an amp wiring kit? Am I missing anything? And the amp would be 4 channel to the all the speakers right?


Oops. I guess it is a first gen.

 

[neoturner]

Well, I just looked up the reviews of the cd player and amp I have, and it looks like the CD player belongs in the trash. Oh well.

Thanks for the offer neoturner, but I'm looking for 6.5's for the front, and I'll probably leave the stock 6x9's till I do a later upgrade.

So... $600 for a new cd player, front speakers, and an amp wiring kit? Am I missing anything? And the amp would be 4 channel to the all the speakers right?


Oops. I guess it is a first gen.

you are paying way to much for something if you are paying that much for those items. That does not include a new amp right (wich you don't need) Don't spend too much money on a head unit if you are going to amp your speakers. Get a quality one but those can be had for 200 bucks at the most. A good set of front full range speakers should cost you no more than 150 bucks. So that leaves the wiring kit and you sure as hell shouldn't spend a whole lot on that. 30 bucks max.

and yes the 4 channel will power all 4 speakers.

 

[neoturner]

Amp wiring kit:

16ft of 8ga wire for power and ground
box of 4 8ga ring terminals
fuse block w/fuse
1 foot of plastic heat shielding
heat shrink tubing
10ft of 16ga wire for the remote

 

[Dreadlox]

I'm not saying I plan to spend that on just those items...but those are the items I need, and I have a $600 budget.

So if I spend ~$200 on headunit, $~100 on 6.5's for the front, and $30 on an amp wiring kit, thats only like $230.....which leaves me $370 to play with...hmmm....subs maybe?


On second thought, crutchfield has the Alpine CDE-9843 on sale for only $130, and its specs are good, and it gets great reviews...so that'd leave me $440 give or take....subs? better amp? rear 6x9's?

 

[chuyler1]

I'd say $200-250 on a new head unit. Use your current amp and buy a wiring kit for about $30. Then spend $200-300 on a nice set of component speakers. When you connect everything, bridge the amplifier to two channels so you can send all the power to your components. Power the rear speakers off the deck.

 

[Dreadlox]

When I use my power windows or locks, the headlights dim...what causes this, and is this something I need to fix before I upgrade the audio?

 

[neoturner]

And you will be yet another addict sent down the road of components and subs and crossovers and all that. That is why i am selling my speakers 3 months after I get them. But I am also going to build fiberglass enclosures for them in my kick pannels.

Personally I think the components are overkill if all your are going to do is put speakers in your factory dins.

If you are just looking for better sound than you have then some full range speakers will sound good and not eat up your budget.

You have plenty of money to pick up some subs , 6x9's and an amp for them. It will be a world of difference.

 

[neoturner]

When I use my power windows or locks, the headlights dim...what causes this, and is this something I need to fix before I upgrade the audio?

It happens in most mazdas including mine when I got it. 1amp prolly don't need to do anything but if you get subs and an amp for them you can install 1st's grounding kit in the how to section (you have to go to that section and find it)

since i have done that my lights don't dim at all and i have a lot of crap running to my battery. You can either make the kit or ask somebody to make it for you. I am getting ready to replace mine and will sell that to you if you think it's something you need. The only reason I am replacing it is because I thought I needed higher strand wire so i went out and bought a bunch and the damn original one works like a charm. I am going to swap it out cause I paid for pretty yellow wire and I might as well put it in there.