I don't think this has been discussed much. I am thinking of running dual bpv and bov setup with my HiBoost kit as discussed in the "Kill Turkey" thread in the How-To forum. Can I just weld a short pipe on the pipe coming out of the turbo, close to where the stock connection is for the bpv on my harpipes? I could then connect a bpv valve just as it is setup stock, recircing to the Injen. I will have the Greddy Type-S (vented) on my IC to TB vac-ed to the booster line, with the bpv on stock vac. I think this would give me a nice whoosh with no turkey. Thanks for the input.
Welding pipe on HiBoost kit for dual valve setup....
- Thread starter CasopoliS
- Start date
StreakinOraNgeX
Member
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- Mazdaspeed Protege 03
Yeah, that's exactly what I did...errr... mai friend did for me. I don't see of any other way to mount everything except in its stock location.
HiBoost TS
Member
Yes, you can do that. You can weld a pipe in any of the charge pipes to reirculate and adjust the Type S a little harder than the stock setting.
CasopoliS said:
That is a perfect way to set it up.
CasopoliS said:
You should tap the BB line for the BPV and the BOV. Then you can run a straight hose to your wastegate or MBC if you have one.
HiBoost TS said:
Wow, way cool to see a big vendor actually accepting this method and giving advice to tune it. Thanks a lot Juan.
Great idea....and will do. I can run a dedicated line to my HKS digital boost controller. The kit came today....good thing I don't want to recirc becuase it didn't come with the 2' 19mm hose. I will still need to buy some for the stock BPV. Where is the best place to get this?
Also, slightly off topic, but what is the angled nipple coming off the Type-S for? Might be a dumb question, but I honestly don't know. I know the nipple that comes straight out of the side is for the vac line.
What size are standard vac lines that run to boost controllers, BOVs, etc? And what is the BB vac size? Thanks. I need to go get supplies like extra vac line, T's, and couplers before the weekend. Thanks.
Also, slightly off topic, but what is the angled nipple coming off the Type-S for? Might be a dumb question, but I honestly don't know. I know the nipple that comes straight out of the side is for the vac line.
What size are standard vac lines that run to boost controllers, BOVs, etc? And what is the BB vac size? Thanks. I need to go get supplies like extra vac line, T's, and couplers before the weekend. Thanks.
TigrMsP said:
I am looking into this too. I think this is a steel pipe, I was going to grind off the polish of a little section and weld a random steel 3/4" pipe to it (in an un-noticable location). This is after drilling the hole of course. Any other methods?
Bump - need help by Friday. HiBoost TS told me I can put the BPV nipple anywhere in the system. Juan recomends putting the nipple after the IC because cooler air recircs better (or something to that effect). I am guessing I would put this on the S pipe or just before the flange/BOV. Right? This also means I would need to pay someone $ to weld aluminum. Or is there another method I can get away with? Especially since it will be hidden to some extent.
Also, what is the best pipe to use for the nipple and where can I get this. Thanks for all yoru help everybody! Saturday should go smoothly. HiBoost here I come (nana)
Also, what is the best pipe to use for the nipple and where can I get this. Thanks for all yoru help everybody! Saturday should go smoothly. HiBoost here I come (nana)
There isn't much response because I don't know of anyone that is currently running a dual setup with the HiBoost FMIC. Not from what I can find anyway. Keep me updated with where you decide to put the new nipple and how it runs (stalling issues/sound/turkey/etc.) I would like to do the same exact thing.
Also, right now I'm running a vented GReddy off the factory BPV line. I get turkey at lower RPMs, and a "chirp" sound followed by a nice PSSSH at higher shifts. I think... THINK that running the dedicated lines will help get rid of the chirp. I do get stalling if I don't downshift, or shift into neutral. I'd like to run the dual setup so I can get rid of that stall. It gets to be a PITA.
I plan on documenting my install with pictures. I will let everyone know how the dual setup works. I DO think there are some running the dual setup with the HiBoost ..... but do not know for sure. I think I have decided to weld the nipple on the Turbo -> IC pipe, on the straight just before it curves around front. This is a steel pipe, so I should be able to grind off some of the polish and get a good weld with a random steel pipe (looking for scrap now). Does anyone know of a small pipe I can get at Home Depot, Autozone, Napa, etc? Can I use any 'ol steel pipe with a 3/4" OD? I think we have some steel pressure lines at work. The wall is a bit thicker on the pipe, but not enough to reduce airflow. I will let eveyone know when I am done. This s*** better work!
Nipple has been welded
I welded the nipple for the stock BPV today. It is pointing downward on my turbo -> IC pipe. It is located at the bend, and will be slightly hidden when installed. It will tuck the heater hose right under my Coolant tank, under the Injen, around the Greddy BOV, and to the Injen recirc nipple. The BPV will be located in front of my battery....kinda. I hope this works...with the valve being further away, and the odd placement of the nipple. Either way....it will be better than running the Greddy vented with no recirc. Attached is a photo of the nipple (really exciting photo....sorry, no tassle). Also, I drilled and tapped a hole for my digital boost controller line on the the other end of the pipe. A gold nipple will be screwed in for a 6mm hose (like my setup is now). Thanks for all your input guys.
*The pic of the engine is an old one...without the HiBoost installed. Just to give you an idea of where the nipple will be located....and what my engine looked like before the HiBoost install.
I welded the nipple for the stock BPV today. It is pointing downward on my turbo -> IC pipe. It is located at the bend, and will be slightly hidden when installed. It will tuck the heater hose right under my Coolant tank, under the Injen, around the Greddy BOV, and to the Injen recirc nipple. The BPV will be located in front of my battery....kinda. I hope this works...with the valve being further away, and the odd placement of the nipple. Either way....it will be better than running the Greddy vented with no recirc. Attached is a photo of the nipple (really exciting photo....sorry, no tassle). Also, I drilled and tapped a hole for my digital boost controller line on the the other end of the pipe. A gold nipple will be screwed in for a 6mm hose (like my setup is now). Thanks for all your input guys.
*The pic of the engine is an old one...without the HiBoost installed. Just to give you an idea of where the nipple will be located....and what my engine looked like before the HiBoost install.
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Install went well. Took a long while becuase I took time to do everything right. Welding brackets, reconfiguring the bumper to clear the "L" pipe better, polishing the heatsheild, moving boost controller, etc. My engine bay looks wonderful. Tonight after work I will post pictures.
BTW dual valve setup went very well. NO turkey....all whistle....and VERY loud. Actually it sounds wonderful....exactly what I was looking for. On rare occasion there is a very short turkey sound at the beginning of the blow-off, but only one listening very closely can hear it. No threat of stalling. I adjusted the Greddy softer and harder, and still no stalling. You can set the Greddy how you like
Under MSP Forced Induction thread tonight I will post pics. It will take a while becuase I will have to shrink them all down.
BTW dual valve setup went very well. NO turkey....all whistle....and VERY loud. Actually it sounds wonderful....exactly what I was looking for. On rare occasion there is a very short turkey sound at the beginning of the blow-off, but only one listening very closely can hear it. No threat of stalling. I adjusted the Greddy softer and harder, and still no stalling. You can set the Greddy how you like
Under MSP Forced Induction thread tonight I will post pics. It will take a while becuase I will have to shrink them all down.
I don't have time now to do sound clips. My buddy has a video camera and software, so I will ask for his assistance later. Next step is getting a grill on....right now there is no grill in front of my IC. I admit I love it....but need to protect it nonetheless.
The engine acts different, and sometimes even jumpy. It almost feels like I am getting "slugs" of air as I let on and off the gas. If I shift really fast and hit the gas quickly after the shift, the engine kinda "jumps". Its hard to describe. I def. pull through the gear faster especially after 3k RPM. I wait a second after I shift to let the Greddy blow-off a bit more air, THEN hit the gas. (well, actually I just shift slightly slower and hit the gas right when I get to the next gear) It is a lot smoother and I still pull very well. I just have to learn how to drive it just right now, to get the most out of my power.
The engine acts different, and sometimes even jumpy. It almost feels like I am getting "slugs" of air as I let on and off the gas. If I shift really fast and hit the gas quickly after the shift, the engine kinda "jumps". Its hard to describe. I def. pull through the gear faster especially after 3k RPM. I wait a second after I shift to let the Greddy blow-off a bit more air, THEN hit the gas. (well, actually I just shift slightly slower and hit the gas right when I get to the next gear) It is a lot smoother and I still pull very well. I just have to learn how to drive it just right now, to get the most out of my power.
