Recent content by RatLabGuy

This is out of a P5 that was totalled a long time ago. I have the subwoofer and the wiring harness all the way up to the front. Sorry, cannot guarantee it is everything you need but it should be close. Just want it gone to a home that will use it. Trade for some good beer and a handshake. If a...

Hi all. BLUF: gathering info on CX-9s and what to look for. We've had a 2010 Mazda5 since new, wife's car. I've also had a Protege5 since '06, and been through it top to bottom (almost at 200k). I do ALL car work myself. So I know Mazdas. We've thinking of replacing the Mazda5. It's just too...

Just installed an adjustable camber kit on my '10 M5. Nothing fancy, just the standard style that adds a screwable end link. Took it to a local shop for alignment. Tech is complaining it's taking substantially more work that normal b/c he has to take the wheel off to have access to the adjusting...

actually page 1-16-6 is pretty helpful. It dosn't show direction of flow but you can figure it out.

Well I took the small line off of the charcoal canister, and blew through it - nothing. Then I realized the purge valve may be closed. Disconnected it at the purge valve - then I could just *barely* blow through it. So I used my compressor to try and open it up a little bit, first at the catch...

Thanks. So now that it's not rediculously cold I finally started back at this... First, it's not a gas cap issue - b/c it happens when I'm filling up w/ gas. Clearly something has caused a blockage of air to get out during the filling process. Now, yes, there may also be something else causing...

No, no woosh. And that wouldn't explain why every gas nozzle auto-shuts off quickly.

Awhile ago my P5 started throwing a P0455 code, EVAP leak etc. If I clear it, comes back in around 50 miles or so. Since there are tons of things that can cause this and there was no sign of performance change... I did what any red-blooded American would - ignored it(cabpatch) Just this week I...

This weekend I'm going to try taking it off and see if I can bend it downward a bit. What really sucks is that w/o that crossmember, there are just NO good jack points going in from the front of this car. And after almost 200k miles and 14 years, my side "frames" (term used loosely) are...

I have done all of them except the rear one. The rear one has a poly insert that the PO put in, which makes it hard to believe that it's sagging that much...

Here are some pics. The transmission isn't being held up by the frame - it's just barely above it. E.g. if I remove the crossmember, the trans dosn't drop any - but the paint is worn off and as you can see there is virtually no gap there. When I go over bumps I can hear it rattling/ bumping. I...

Allright, thanks. I did not open the lines any, but yes I did of course have to compress the cylinder to get it off of the housing. So I'll try manually pumping a few times before I get too worried, and plan to bleed it for good measure anyway. . However the more I think about it, I just don't...

Just put the trans back together from a rebuild, changed the clutch while it was all apart. Complete clutch kit. If I push in the clutch, it just drops to the floor. I can see the cylinder has pushed all the way out and the lever is maxed. It just stays there like that. Now, I can reach down and...

Bringing this back up, b/c I need advice!! I have my transmission out (for gear replacement) and the motor mount is shot, so figured now is the time to do it. PO had put in poly inserts so at least the bolt has been out out. Since the trans is missing, I jacked the motor up and tied it forward...

that was me ;-) The trick was removing strut tower so that I had a perfectly straight shot. Then whacked it good w/ the mallet. Yes I held it while wife hit it. The key is that the force has to be perfectly straight as it travels down the CV. If that sucker is bent at all it won't push all...