As the manual suggests, like the engine and transmission, the brakes are to be bedded in/broken in gently for the first 600 miles. Avoiding hard stopping unless absolutely necessary. I would give your brand new car some time to break in. Check your tire PSI to get a start point.
Before throwing any $$$ at it, please verify all of the COWL bolts are tight. I have seen a few others chasing a mysterious knock/tap/clunk from the 2013-2015 range that is solved with a cowl bolts torque check. There is a TSB out there / on here for the proper torque and bolts affected.
Bad or poor condition brake fluid that is contaminated with water can still look clear and acceptable.
The reservoir is not a good example of the entire system's condition, and only represents a very small portion of the total amount of fluid in the system.
For a proper and inexpensive test...
Sorry for the misunderstanding I never said they were a failure point on a 2014, however they are a common failure point and cause of rough idling issues on any of the Mazdas that use the hydraulic motor mounts post 2004
I agree... I would not be messing with the plugs again, or bother removing to check gap.
Because you disconnected the battery, the car will have to relearn fuel mapping.
Extra vibrations at idle in park can be caused by failed motor mounts.
Out of curiosity, did this all happen after the...
My Toyota dealer friend was down to just 50 cars, out of a usual 300 car supply. He just told me that this week they are finally shipping fresh supply in.
If you have test driven both, you should know what model you need.
You really can not go wrong with either, but from reading your long term stand point and not needing turbo, I would steer you towards the GT.