Yea. It is very simple and I still have the origonal box and I am pretty sure I have the instrucions as well as the extra cables and mounting hardware that I didnt use.
These are in like new condition. I have used them for a couple of months now but I found myself not using it to its potiential. Now I am moving and could use a little money. I bought the gauge for $250.. check it out here (http://www.aeroforcetech.com/products_interceptor.html ) it is sweet...
I bought this and it was a little too aggressive feeling for me. It was a big improvement just not my style I guess. In perfect shaped guaranteed to be unmarried. I paid 510 dollars shipped. I will take 490 dollars shipped. My pay-pal is kyle.kalkbrenenr@gmail.com
I live in Arkansas and it rains like hell here. I had the CP-e with the same issue and I could not stand being scared to go through puddles. I bought a Cobb SF and I have no worries now.
Other cars I have hated this feature. But Mazda seems to have it right here. It waits to let the car warm up before blasting heat and turns on the defrosters for you. One thing I love about it is if it is in auto you can still switch back and forth from inside and outside air without it going to...
From your pictures it looks to be your U-joint. If dirt got in the boot then it can cause damage. They aren't that expensive but get it fixed or you could have a disaster if it breaks.
So after driving about 120 miles with my AP installed my LTFT are still 13-18. I know this cant be where they need to be. Should I re-flash it?
I have Cobb AP, Cobb SFI, Turbosmart BPV, New Denso one step colder plugs. Running Stage 1+sf 93 octane.
I believe that is the only way oil can get into you intake unless somehow it is coming from a bad cylinder up through you intake manifold but that seem unlikely.
So I changed my spark plugs to the one step colder Denso's gaped at .028 inches. Today I installed the Cobb AP with the map Stage 1 SF 93 octane. At the very beginning I noticed a tad bit of hesitation. Is this normal while my ecu gets used to the difference.
I put the plastic piece back and took it apart, cleaned it realley well and put it back together with the proper lube. It works great. Just needs a little fine tuning.
Thanks for the advice.
I tried to back it out all the way and it still it fluttered. I then tookl it off and backed it off all the way and the spring came out. With the spring out I cant even depress it with my hand. It is kind of rusty looking. I think it needs rebuilding. Is this somthing I can do?