Not today, but a few weeks ago (friend uploaded pictures)
Car immediately died after fording these streams (and a previous stream, but pictures of that crossing are super fuzzy). Looks like I got some electrical gremlins somewhere.
The ford escape end links do not work - I had to replace mine. The issue is with the zerk fitting - the fitting doesn't fit in there so you have to either plug the hole or leave it open and that's just not good for the end link.
At 110k with no replacement here. Just wondering if I should drive the car into the ground? It's probably worth $2500 right now - if I get another year out of it then I would be happy.
So I have:
4 with no rubber on them and 3 with rubber. They're all the stock OEM five-spoke design.
I've taken them to get balanced at a few places and was told that they were out of round so now I've got cheap-o replacements.
But.. what to do with these? I doubt that they're worth anything...
Anyway, I think the crunching came from the front-right end-link. I had just replaced it about 10-15k ago and turns out that it went bad again... I need to take it to my friend's apartment complex tomorrow (that's where I test my suspension because oh my god the size of the speed bumps there) to...
Only problem is no hatch in the US!
Somewhere in TX? I don't think I'm ready just yet ... Gotta figure out what I'm going to do with my current P5. It's just.. ugh.. something clunks in the transmission and everything creaks. If I could fix it then I wouldn't mind driving it into the ground.
... so... what do you guys think of the Mazda 3 wagons?
This is actually surprisingly cheap - I didn't realize that used Mazda3s were that cheap. Maybe I shouldn't have gotten a P5 after all :P
He may have meant "inside out" in the sense that the internal components rust through (and are not noticeable or coatable) so by the time you start noticing rust on the exterior the car is already done.
So.. on the topic of a next car - any other suggestions? I'm thinking of trading up my P5 in...
If you want to be just a little cheap - do OEM rear and then aftermarket for the rest. Passenger side is probably the easiest to do and costs some $250 OEM and only ~$40 aftermarket..
Welp, I had some old rubber grommets from when I swapped out the air-filter tray with one from a junkyard - the radiator doesn't rattle by hand anymore but there is still lots of other rattling sounds when the car goes over bumps.
Crap... I absolutely have no idea what on the radiator rattles. The whole assembly seems to be just floating around in the engine bay. All of the bushings (although they squeak... and the replacement cost is $18/bushing!) and brackets are there (did you know that you can buy aftermarket radiator...
Well.. if you guessed a radiator (15-200) that's not secure, you get +10 points!
On the other hand if you guessed shifter linkage you get +10 points!
How about a CV joint rattle? Also +10!
Maybe it's the rear motor mount .. mount that's not screwed? +5 for that.
Also sounds like...