Recent content by hotrodf1

aw crap. the HU now works, but I can't see anything. No display, but the buttons do work, . . . .for now. So does this mean ribbon cable faulty? :(

Okay I'll try it at lunchtime. Not holding my breath however. But we'll see. Thanks for the info . . . :)

No, I haven't. I guess I'm not familiar with doing that. Can you explain or point me to a thread perhaps? I suppose it would be good to at least try it before I throw money at it.

Hello all, My car has 78K miles on it, and the buttons and lights stopped working. Then the faceplate goes half way down and stays there. If I remove the face, the little carrier folds back up into the deck. If I put the face back on, it just folds back out again. From what I've read it's...

Hey - just trying to get some facts, not just someone's opinion ya know. That post you are referring to said that you were RIGHT. The hotrodders.com guys areed. No need to insult . . .

Wow. Out of hand it did get. As far as the arguement for using a smaller intake than exhaust, it doesn't hold up. Yes, the same mass of air might occupy less volume before it gets heated in combustion, however in a low pressure / high pressure system (think A/C compressor, turbos, IC engine)...

I think it would do okay in the heat. it just wouldn't hold the original pressure that it's rated for, which is way up there compared to what we're talking about here. yes, there are tons of intake system on eBay and the like that I could chop and use couplers. That's probably what I'll end...

For the record, The turbo guys at hotrodders site said the same thing: 2.0" first to carry the less viscous (easier flowing) hot air, then 2.5" to carry the thicker air to the TB. One guy had that size piping on a 2.8L Datsun making 350 at the crank on 15 psi. If it good enough for him...

We talked about all this earlier. You might go back and read the entire to see what you can find. There was a good bit of discussion.

I do have a G-tech, but it's the older single vector type. Wish I had the tri-axis. Guess it would anyhow.

Update from me: The car had become lazy after a few hundred miles. i did reset the ECU last night, and the car is back to it old vigor again!! woohoo. Just don't know why . . . (scratch) First order of business is to fix the boost leak(s). Still have the cold bog. . . . strange it...

For anyone following: I reset the ECU last night. Now the car is responsive again! Bizarre . . . Why would the car learn to be unresponsive?

I used a Felpro gasket that I found in the box at O-Reilly. It "looked" like it would work and it works perfectly. It is a flange style gasket instead of the small donut stock gasket (which I could tell from the matchup of parts that it would not work). Only problem is I didnt' keep track of...

(lol2) don't tempt me . . .

First, Thanks for the insight. I can see this side of the arguement. Basically, we are to flow the hot thin air through the smaller pipe, since it flows easier and we can keep the high velocity up as much as possible to aid in the filling of the system. You talked about scavenging low...