Sounds like you have a transmission with an open differential. The Toe issue is also a problem. You'll be able to burn the tires easier but the loose steering effect comes into play.
It is best to leave the engine and trans together while removing. after its out you can switch trans if you want or whatever. It is really a 4 to 5 hour job if you are experienced.
I would just remove the slave cylinder by just unbolting it and let it hang there.
Unbolt the exhaust down...
This is possibly the easiest swaps to do. All you have to do is unplug everything, remove the axles, pull the engine and transmission together and put them back into the other car. Not the most descriptive but if you've ever pulled an engine its pretty straight forward.
Just adjust it until the rotor stops and then go in the car and pull the Ebrake all the way up and let it back down. It should not touch the rotors after.
Its probably your rear rotors. I had bad rear rotors and the steering wheel shook bad before I changed them out. Now I have no wobble with new rear rotors on.
You should order a aftermarket wiring harness kit. It has all of the wires labeled for what they do. Just match it up to the wire that shows Auxiliary and tap into that for power. I'd just get a relay and use the Auxiliary wire as the switch, should be blue, like hooking up an amplifier...
This depends on your setup. If you have a stock setup with all plastic pipes you can't put it before the Maf because its on the intake. If your car has hard piping then you want to move the Maf to the charged side of the piping going to the throttlebody and make sure to have the blow off valve...
You can use the 93-97 2.0 FSDE Probe Manual transmission also, probably the 626 2.0 FSDE Manual Transmission also. I have a 96 probe tranny in my brothers car right now.