Recent content by bmninada

1 thing: thank you all! Really. For I was planning to replace my struts thinking its bad. Now I just saved myself quite a big chunk of $$. I just feel perhaps this exercise should be done by all who change the links. Perhaps not applicable to most but just in case.... I say this since not only...

Please see: Stabilizer links with OEM replaced - but weird now when driving

No - but son uses a software called Grammer called GrammerCheck - which I also use. Pretty good and re-formats too

Oh. All I did was loosen at the top where the links connect and then tighten it back to what somewhere here (in this site) was said : 36 to 40 ft. lb torque. Then repeat at the lower point same thing. Left and right. All the while while the car was in an alignment ramp, all wheels. As was right...

I completed this finally. It was a real b**** to have the car on a ramp and go underneath and do it. Finally was able to. Net result: Noticeable improvement in 2 areas: 1. Steering wheel turning : smoother by a lot. 2. Noticeable feel in driving down the same roads -> bumps, etc. are still...

That is only true if the bar is at its neutral rotational position at ride height. That condition I think here is being assumed, not guaranteed. The sway bar is: Not keyed Not splined Not indexed to the chassis Its neutral position is defined by installation, not design. Even with rubber...

@N7turbo A sway bar system has three variables, not one: Link length (fixed) Control arm position (changes with ride height) Sway bar rotational position in the chassis (not indexed) Even with a fixed-length link: If you connect both ends while the suspension is drooped You define the sway...

Recently got the front axle links replaced consequent to a diagnosed clunking sound. Sound is now gone. 3 weeks driving however distinctly feel the car got worse. Every bump, potholes - everything I am feeling now, while driving. Even the car is rolling more I think. To eliminate few things -...

Very good point and considering you have real experience post change, probably first I'll do the 3 things mechanic recommended I do. He's nice that way. Tells me "don't bother me, unless there's a real issue, save your $" type.

Used to +10 yrs ago. Now - no more.My M+S (Snow peak rated tires) handle North east snow perfectly fine. I think it was last or maybe earlier I posted here even how they managed with +6 inches snow effortlessly. Last year I had an emergency and had to drive at +70 mph thru snow baked roads (not...

Gotcha. However - the issue I have as described is with steering being more stiff than usual, nose of car bobbing a bit (I think). Probably struts may be fine but was thinking the bearings, mounts and bumper may be a problem.

That's what I am also thinking. Although its +10 yrs, (almost) 74k miles seems very low.

Recently swapped front suspension links. Clunking sound - gone. However, noticed steering wheel feeling a little stiff on turning, front of car seems to (am I dreaming) bobbing up/down in bumps. CX5 GT 2016 2.5L at 74k miles [US Ed]. When replacing stabilizer links somewhere I read struts need...

Thanks a ton man. I did the same. The jump in CCA makes it worth it. Esp. I bought thru Costco, price wise - the same!

I haven't done Optima but did Interstate (Costco). It fit perfectly. No cutting, etc. Even terminals fit. My issue is: The new high-capacity AGM battery using the charging profile intended for the older, smaller battery, which can lead to premature failure? OR: for AGM batteries its not really...