You know the guy who lead the "Feel Alive" campaign? Yeah, he left...
https://www.ocbj.com/news/2020/mar/10/mazda-begins-search-new-cmo/
Hopefully Mazda will now get some better advertisement / commercials.
If you are able to consistently replicate the lurch bring it to a Mazda dealer. If it is still under CPO warranty by all means have them take a look to make sure it isn't a larger problem.
As much as I wish this was the case for Mazda, I think it is more the sweet spot price wise:
My '17 has 14k miles, AWD and the premium package. (Remote start too but can't count that). They were willing to give me $21,500 and they were going to CPO it and sell it for $24,500 from what I heard...
Correction: after re-reading my post it sounds like my 2016.5 does it all the time - it does not. It is a rare occasion and maybe happened 3 times since I owned it. And those three occasions were very similar to OP.
Sorry for the confusion!
My vote: keep the '17.
Last weekend I went to the dealer with the intent of trading in my 2017 GT for a 2020 Reserve. As we are going over the numbers a salesman next to us thought they were getting my car and started calling back potential buyers for my '17. I guess there is a wait list for...
My 2016.5 does the exact same thing and has since the day we owned it. Pretty sure it is completely normal.
Not sure why it happens, might be that the torque converter needs an extra second when it is cold out to unlock and switch gears.
I just checked the VIN with my 2016.5 - no recalls found for it either.
If I remember correctly, I believe the 2016.5 had the newer "J" lamp assembly. I believe if your 2016.5 was built in 2016 you are OK. Anything built prior to 2016 might have the problematic lights.
You have a little bit of wiggle room if you were looking to get more off. You would be able to take another $500-$1000 depending on how hard you negotiate. (For reference the dealer price should be about $35,029 after the discount and BEFORE incentives)
On the flip side, if this CX 5 has your...
Now that is some great detective work, Deer!
I do follow the logic - cold air is denser therefore more air flows through the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor). When a certain limit is reached (as described as voltage) the MAF triggers a signal to the ECU (Electronic Control Unit - aka car's computer)...
I played with the Amica "Discount Pricing" - it appears to me that it is just BS TrueCar pricing. I have a feeling your theory is correct - it is just a sales lead generator for dealerships.
The supposed "deal" is 4% off MSRP. Most dealers give you 5% for walking in the door and not even trying...
Mine is a straight line across. There might be a small blip where the two beams meet but it is not as pronounced as your photo.
You should take it back to the dealer to see if a headlight is misaligned.