What did you pay for your CX-5?

The cost of the window tint and door edge protection have to go. He'll say that they're already on the car. In fairness he did pay someone to out them on, so tell him to show you the invoice from their installer and you'll pay that. Should be a total of about $200, not the $600 - $1,000 he's listing it for on his window add-on sticker. He's got a guy that comes to the dealership every week and slaps on the lowest grade tint for $150. And he get's the edge guard for another $20.

Or better yet, tell him that you'll wait for another car to come in and to call you before he adds the tint and edge guard. - see how quick he reduces the cost of those o your current deal. FWIW, the nitrogen costs him next to nothing

Gotcha. I'll day that way then, I figured the nitro was basically no cost. And The wheel locks can absolutely be removed. I think if those ads are removed or otherwise discounted the pricing should be right around 10% off MSRP. I'm wondering if I can push that a little bit lower considering the 2021 models are going to be on the lot in 2 weeks.... Just getting the gap included via front end discount before going to FO would be helpful.
 
... The only thing I planned on getting in finance is GAP, which is $850. So these adds of $1295....

Check with your insurance company about gap insurance. You'll likely find that it's under $20/yr to include it on your insurance. Some insurance companies actually include it with no additional charge for the first two years on a new car.

I can't think of any reason to get gap coverage from the car stealership 🤷‍♂️. Just include it with your auto insurance policy and quit paying it whenever your no longer upside down on the loan. Prolly save yourself $800.
 
Check with your insurance company about gap insurance. You'll likely find that it's under $20/yr to include it on your insurance.
I can't believe I didn't think of that. I don't need gap insurance, but it's something I wouldn't have thought of. Yeah, one quick call tomorrow morning we'll get your answer. Or you can probably Google your insurance company along with the word gap insurance and they'll probably be some information. And after all, wouldn't you entrust your insurance company more anyway?
 
I can't believe I didn't think of that. I don't need gap insurance, but it's something I wouldn't have thought of. Yeah, one quick call tomorrow morning we'll get your answer. Or you can probably Google your insurance company along with the word gap insurance and they'll probably be some information. And after all, wouldn't you entrust your insurance company more anyway?

Yeah for sure. I have state farm and their customer service doesn't answer questions like that on a Sunday, I'll have to call my local agent in the morning but it's a great idea.
 
Share the rates that you find from State Farm. I'm sure that will be very helpful to a lot of people here
 
Progressive calls it "Loan/Lease payoff coverage". Basically gives you an addition up to 25% of Actual Cash Value to payoff the loan in case the car is a total loss. $5 on a 6 month policy for me. (YMMV) I don't think I even need it getting 31% off on my purchase but for less than $1/mo I'm gonna go ahead and add that on just in case lol ;)

Everything you want to know about Progressive --> Gap insurance
 
Also, I prefer the tan seats and the dealer said the cost to replace the black with tan is $1000.00. The car only has 17,000 miles. Even if it is "against the law", do you think the dealerships turn back the miles?
I seriously doubt a new car dealer would ever roll back a mileage. Maybe some little sleezy corner used car lot dealing in wholesale vehicles of questionable provenance. Fines and maybe a lost business license is not worth it to a new car dealer.. I would check the Car Fax for any prior accidents or flood damage. A reputable new car dealer will give that to you if asked.
 
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Share the rates that you find from State Farm. I'm sure that will be very helpful to a lot of people here.
Retes vary based many factors. Your age, the ages of other drivers, accident histories of the drivers, your credit rating, your zip code, your stated use of the vehicle and expected mileage, the value of the vehicle, the deductible amounts and loss limits on the various coverages, and whether you bundle the coverage with homeowners. Without comparing apples to apples given these factors and others, knowing what somebody pays for insurance has little meaning. I doubt anybody will disclose all these facts for comparision and if they did I wouldn't necessarily believe them. They might omit that dumb a*ss at-fault accident in the last 5 years or exagerate a credit rating. And even if somebody did answer completely and honestly, the chances their rating profile matches yours in any meaningful way is slim to none.

Of course the whole point of insurance is to get paid without a hassle if something happens, so how various carriers are rated for claim service is a factor that may outweigh some additional cost.

The only way to do a meaningful price comparison is to get quotes from several carriers.
 
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Retes vary based many factors. Your age, the ages of other drivers, accident histories of the drivers, your credit rating, your zip code, your stated use of the vehicle and expected mileage, the value of the vehicle, the deductible amounts and loss limits on the various coverages, and whether you bundle the coverage with homeowners. Without comparing apples to apples given these factors knowing what somebody pays for insurance has little meaning. I doubt anybody will disclose all these facts for comparision and if they did I wouldn't necessarily believe them. They might omit that dumb a*ss at-fault accident in the last 5 years or exagerate a credit rating.

Of course the whole point of insurance is to get paid without a hassle if something happens, so how various carriers are rated for claim service is a factor that may outweigh some additional cost.

The only way to do a meaningful price comparison is to get quotes from several carriers.

All true, but I'll post what I find out anyway. Might be helpful for ballpark estimates. I only switched to state farm earlier this year from progressive that I had for 14 years. Had 3 not-at - fault claims in 60 days (one break in per vehicle and hail storm damage on one = 3 claims). In 14 years we'd only filed two not-at-fault claims, one for a break in 6 years ago and another uninsured motorist when wife's car was hit in a parking lot. So, they decided to triple our rates and we switched carriers.
 
All true, but I'll post what I find out anyway. Might be helpful for ballpark estimates. I only switched to state farm earlier this year from progressive that I had for 14 years. Had 3 not-at - fault claims in 60 days (one break in per vehicle and hail storm damage on one = 3 claims). In 14 years we'd only filed two not-at-fault claims, one for a break in 6 years ago and another uninsured motorist when wife's car was hit in a parking lot. So, they decided to triple our rates and we switched carriers.
3 claims in 60 days, regardless of the cause, has a habit of doing that regardless of the carrier or what happened in the previous 13 years, 10 months.
 
I guess you like to eat stale twinkies sitting on a store shelf for 6 months since they were, ya know "new" in the box.

This is a horrible example for the point you are trying to make. Both a twenty year old Twinkie or a Twinkie packaged today, eaten twenty years from now will taste exactly the same. And by that, I mean soft and delicious.

That’s kinda the point of Twinkies.
 
There are many logical reasons why a person would want a fresh build. One of them has to do with the manufacturer implementing fixes at the factory to issues that crop up which are reported where they revise a part number or perform quiet updates when the car is being built.

Or you get a situation where you by a car with a build date of 03/20 in April, and come to find out that the module installed in the lift gate is faulty, and you might suddenly find yourself with a completely dead battery on your brand new car.

Had you instead bought a “stale” model built 09/19, you wouldn’t have that problem because they hadn’t started using the defective part yet.

Essentially, you might be more likely to get a car with an undiscovered glitch on a “fresh” car than you are to get one with a since-discovered and fixed (at the dealership) glitch on a “stale” one.

Not saying there isn’t something “nice” about buying something fresh off the boat ... but the reason you gave isn’t really a valid one.
 
The cost of the window tint and door edge protection have to go. He'll say that they're already on the car. In fairness he did pay someone to out them on, so tell him to show you the invoice from their installer and you'll pay that. Should be a total of about $200, not the $600 - $1,000 he's listing it for on his window add-on sticker. He's got a guy that comes to the dealership every week and slaps on the lowest grade tint for $150. And he get's the edge guard for another $20.

Or better yet, tell him that you'll wait for another car to come in and to call you before he adds the tint and edge guard. - see how quick he reduces the cost of those o your current deal. FWIW, the nitrogen costs him next to nothing

This is the price breakdown I was given:

clear door Edge 276

window tint life time warranty 426

wheels locks 207

nitro filled tires with life time fill up 386.

Wondering why he's inflating things that I can clearly see on Mazda, wheel locks are $60. Not sure what exactly clear door edge is, and we know that nitro is definitely not worth over $300. If he removes or discounts all these we will likely have a deal soon.

Also, state farm does not offer gap for anyone wondering.
 
This is really getting to me and I couldn't deal with a dealer like that. These costs aren't just profiting, they are raping.

Nitrogen an cost about $10 per tire, so I'm not bending over and grabbing my ankles to let then charge me $386.

I'm super confused about the wheel locks, as you said, Mazda's are $60. Seriously , I would ask if they are charging 2 hours of shop labor to install them. - I'm not joking, ask how you can go walk through the door of the parts department and buy them for $60 and they then want an additional $216 to install them

I'm serious about the window tint - they pay some guy to come in every week and it costs them about $150. Again, I'd ask for and pay his invoice from the guy who did the tint and edge guard, that way they're not loosing money on it.

This is the edge guard
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
 
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nitro filled tires with life time fill up 386.

...and we know that nitro is definitely not worth over $300.

Mazda says, "There is no practical value added from filling tires with nitrogen."

As far as the actual cost to fill a tire with nitrogen...

My local welding supplier charges $74 for a cylinder containing 230 cubic feet of industrial-grade nitrogen. That works out to $0.32 per cubic foot.

The CX-5's 19" tire volume is about 1.87 cubic feet. At 36 PSI, about 4.58 cubic feet of nitrogen is required per tire. That works out to about $1.47 per tire to completely fill it with nitrogen.

And, unless you pull a vacuum on tire before reinflating it with pure nitrogen (which isn't possible because the bead won't hold a vacuum), then you only end up with about 93% nitrogen - regular air is already 78% nitrogen. :)

Also, state farm does not offer gap for anyone wondering.

If you finance a vehicle through State Farm, you automatically receive their Payoff Protector (GAP equivalent).
 
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Mazda says, "There is no practical value added from filling tires with nitrogen."

I don't know how confrontational you're comfortable being, but I would show him, on page 2 this link, and politely yet firmly say "with all respect, I'm not sure we're going to be able to make a deal without some major concessions (or deletion for all) on these add-ons, and this nitro bit really has me a bit ticked off

 
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