What did you pay for your CX-5?

A side note for people getting prices. They will usually negotiate or quote you a price, then in the finance department is the first place you will see the doc fee. It is near impossible to get a doc fee removed, and it's best know what is ahead of time and negotiate it off the price
 
A side note for people getting prices. They will usually negotiate or quote you a price, then in the finance department is the first place you will see the doc fee. It is near impossible to get a doc fee removed, and it's best know what is ahead of time and negotiate it off the price
Exactly. I've learned to inquire about that up front. Recently while helping my son car shop we went to several dealers. He received the same price from 2 dealers. One dealer had a $400 higher dealer doc fee. The dealer with the higher doc fee had the car he wanted on the lot & is also down the street from where he lives. He told them they had to reduce their price by $400 to make the deals the same. After some initial squirming they agreed & he bought the car from them.
 
And I'm guessing, they left left the doc fee the way it was, but reduced the selling price.?
 
This is generally what happens. It's pretty close to 100% of the time they HAVE to charge everyone the same DOC fee. - okay, some of you will say you've negotiated the DOC fee lower, whatever.

But here's how it usually goes down and what you need to do.....

*You negotiate a price, then they send you to the business/finance guy (even if you're paying cash).
*Unless you know to ask ahead of time, that's usually the first time you see the DOC or it's sometimes in your quote.
*You tell the finance dude "hey, what's that DOC fee, no one told me".
*He goes on to tell you that everyone "even his own mom" has to pay that - That's a direct quote.
*He knows that you're too tired and that you have already picked out the perfect car for you and will pay the "only $10/month" extra.

You could back to the salesman to renegotiate but the salesman is going to tell you that you already struck a deal.
This is where they know that 99% of the people just say fine.
If you're truly motivated, say no thank you and leave. Trust me, only then will they may find a way to cut the cost because they know that once you're gone you're gone.

Please, I know there are some of you that had this EXACT, nearly word for word, experience
 
This is generally what happens. It's pretty close to 100% of the time they HAVE to charge everyone the same DOC fee. - okay, some of you will say you've negotiated the DOC fee lower, whatever.

But here's how it usually goes down and what you need to do.....

*You negotiate a price, then they send you to the business/finance guy (even if you're paying cash).
*Unless you know to ask ahead of time, that's usually the first time you see the DOC or it's sometimes in your quote.
*You tell the finance dude "hey, what's that DOC fee, no one told me".
*He goes on to tell you that everyone "even his own mom" has to pay that - That's a direct quote.
*He knows that you're too tired and that you have already picked out the perfect car for you and will pay the "only $10/month" extra.

You could back to the salesman to renegotiate but the salesman is going to tell you that you already struck a deal.
This is where they know that 99% of the people just say fine.
If you're truly motivated, say no thank you and leave. Trust me, only then will they may find a way to cut the cost because they know that once you're gone you're gone.

Please, I know there are some of you that had this EXACT, nearly word for word, experience
Spot on. I would also say if you do not get up and walk out at least once you won't get them to budge on some of the stiffer items, leaving the deal is your strongest card. The experience I have had thus far is when you get up and walk out they reconsider your ask. The best thing I have done for this process is ask for all the fees up front, when possibe, before getting in front of the finance manager. DOC fee is tricky to negoiate and like you said, the line about everyone having to pay the same doc fee by law usually stops many people there. If you are serious you will walk out, find the sales guy to decrease the sales prices partially to lessen the doc fee impact, or ask for all the fees up front with the sales guy to negotiate it before finance.
 
My experience was not quite the same as I don't think we have what would be considered a Doc Fee here in Canada, but.. We had finalized a deal for our CX-9 with a fex extras included - PPF on the front end, floor mats, cargo mat and net, free oil changes, etc. We went into the F&I office and I opted for the warranty at a heavily discounted price (which they naturally deducted from the retail price of the car). Once we came to an agreement, I asked the F&I manager to go through the deal one more time (to make sure everything was in line). When it came to PPF, she said "partial hood, side mirrors and fenders", then moved onto the next item. My wife and I both stopped her and said "what about the bumper?". She went on to tell us that there was no way the salesperson offered us the bumper portion for free because it was expensive. My wife literally stood up from her seat and said "that's fine" and turned to leave, and magically the dealership manager and the salesperson appear and sort everything out in less than 2 mins.

Walking away is definitely the strongest negotiation tool at your disposal. There are plenty of other cars to buy, and no shortage of dealerships to buy from.
 
Walking away is definitely the strongest negotiation tool at your disposal. There are plenty of other cars to buy, and no shortage of dealerships to buy from.

They know, and I mean KNOW, that only 5 out off 100 are serious bout leaving, so they'll hold off on conceding as long as they car. You won't win by "negotiating", as they know that 95/100 have found the 'car of their dreams' and aren't going to go back to other dealers or look for another car and stat the process again.

How am I so sure? Because this forum proves it. I've got in to too many discussions with people here that say - "I didn't want to hassle anymore, it wasn't worth my time to save another $300. - That's my point, they know you don't want to argue anymore, so they stand firm.
 
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They know, and I mean KNOW, that only 5 out off 100 are serious bout leaving, so they'll hold off on conceding as long as they car. They KNOW that 95/100 have found the 'car of their dreams' and aren't going to go back to other dealers or look for another car and stat the process again.

Why am I so sure, because this forum proves it. I've got in to too many discussions with people here that say - "I didn't want to hassle anymore, it wasn't worth my time to save another $300. - That's my point, they know you don't want to argue anymore, so they stand firm.

Guess its a good thing I'm in the 5% of your numbers (which you say is based on 1 or 2 discussions you've had here, and applies to all vehicle deals made, ever). 🤷‍♂️
 
Hey guys, would love your input on a new deal I'm looking at.

I'm looking at a 2020 CX-5 Touring (FWD) with the preferred package.

MSRP: $29310
Adjusted Price: $24,390
OTD: $27,300

Let me know what you think!
 
Almost 17% off MSRP. Take it and run before they realize what they did. But I'm not sure how you have almost $3,000 in tax and license?
 
Almost 17% off MSRP. Take it and run before they realize what they did. But I'm not sure how you have almost $3,000 in tax and license?

Thanks for your input! Tax rate where I live is almost 10% :cry:.

Do you think prices will go even lower when the '21 model comes in? From what I've seen, it seems like they'll start rolling into the lot within a month or so.
 
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It's been said a lot of times, but bears repeating - the solution to arbitrary doc fees (and others) being sprung on unsuspecting buyers in the finance managers office at closing is simply to tell the sales person you want to negotiate a price of $X + TTL. How they slice/dice X with respect to car price, discount, doc fees, etc. is entirely up to them - you couldn't care less.

Or negotiate on an OTD price with TTL. The problem with this is that TTL during negotiation is usually fluid/estimated and will vary dramatically state to state and sometimes even county to county or city to city. It's not negotiable anyway, so just exclude it from the negotiations and you can compare prices from any two dealers anywhere.

- Mark
 
tell the sales person you want to negotiate a price of $X + TTL. How they slice/dice X with respect to car price, discount, doc fees, etc. is entirely up to them - you couldn't care less.

This^^^

And going back to an earlier thread, what's even worse is to go in to the finance office only to have them tell you "oh, that $600 window tint, or $699 security etching, or dealer installed chromed fender dents are already on the car, we can't take it off." - ugh. Now Imagine all the poor schmucks that just hand over the extra $1,200.

As most of you can tell, I'me very passionate about this topic. I'm okay with a dealer trying to make as much as he can, but not okay with the "beat 'em up until they surrender" approach.
 
Also, I prefer the tan seats and the dealer said the cost to replace the black with tan is $1000.00. The car only has 17,000 miles. Even if it is "against the law", do you think the dealerships turn back the miles?
 
This^^^

And going back to an earlier thread, what's even worse is to go in to the finance office only to have them tell you "oh, that $600 window tint, or $699 security etching, or dealer installed chromed fender dents are already on the car, we can't take it off." - ugh. Now Imagine all the poor schmucks that just hand over the extra $1,200.

As most of you can tell, I'me very passionate about this topic. I'm okay with a dealer trying to make as much as he can, but not okay with the "beat 'em up until they surrender" approach.

So, let me show you please a quote I've discussed with a dealer, I haven't made an "offer" on it yet, this is prenegotiation. It has $1295 of "adds": wheel locks, window tint, door edge protection and nitrogen filled tires. I really don't want ANY of that stuff, especially the nitro.

From dealer:

MSRP $38830.00 with Adds ..

Selling price 33495.00 ( includes the $750 owner loyalty and $750 rebate )

Trade in value $20000.00

--------------------------------

diffrence : $13495.00 Plus TTL

Tax $853.31

Title and lincence $388.57

Total price $14736.88

Payoff on the VW $22000.00 ( based on the number you privided )

Total price $36736.88"

The only thing I planned on getting in finance is GAP, which is $850. So these adds of $1295.

I feel like this would be a pretty good deal if it weren't for the adds and if they come down another $500-$1000. That would get my OTD price to around $35k. Yes, I'm rolling in a little negative on current vehicle but with a good deal it will be a wash, they've given me a really fair trade in price, I'll push a little on that front if I can but not too hard.

Can they seriously discount these adds to maybe "include" gap?
 
The cost of the window tint and door edge protection have to go. He'll say that they're already on the car. In fairness he did pay someone to out them on, so tell him to show you the invoice from their installer and you'll pay that. Should be a total of about $200, not the $600 - $1,000 he's listing it for on his window add-on sticker. He's got a guy that comes to the dealership every week and slaps on the lowest grade tint for $150. And he get's the edge guard for another $20.

Or better yet, tell him that you'll wait for another car to come in and to call you before he adds the tint and edge guard. - see how quick he reduces the cost of those o your current deal. FWIW, the nitrogen costs him next to nothing
 
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