What did you pay for your CX-5?

To the original topic, bought last month here in MN
2019 CX-5 GT-Reserve
Deep Crystal Blue Mica / Parchment interior
3000 miles per the dealership loaner, been titled once for them
wasn't looking for a CPO - but this is covered powertrain for 100,000 and another 6 years.
Paid the advertised price $30,800 + TTL ... one of those no-haggle dealerships
it's absolutely immaculate and i'm still love struck
 
It took me 3 months hunting around 3 states (maine/nh/ma) to get the best out the door price.
It is not easy for sure if you are try to shave, Mazda dealers are not big volume dealers. If you are looking for a potentially deeper discount, try to focus on vehicles that have been on the lot for over at least 60 days.... the more days it is on the lo..the more motivated they are to move it.
Also if you can stand heat, research an good auto broker. Costco, if you are are a member is a good place to start, it is absolute free and perfect for the ones with fear of commitment. Just do your homework ...always...
 
I don't know how confrontational you're comfortable being, but I would show him, on page 2 this link, and politely yet firmly say "with all respect, I'm not sure we're going to be able to make a deal without some major concessions (or deletion for all) on these add-ons, and this nitro bit really has me a bit ticked off


Once I was sitting there at the dealership today, he didn't even push on those things at all and removed them from the pricing entirely. The deal is still pending but all the numbers are worked up--we'd actually sold our Mazda CX-9 a few months ago to that dealership without buying a vehicle so he is using that for a tax credit which saves around $2300. MSRP was $38,830, and pending a couple of things, the out the door will be $36,130 (including GAP insurance--subtracting that would make it $35,280). He's also giving me the best trade-in value for my current vehicle by $1500. So, without the negative equity on my current vehicle, the price would be $34,000 (or $33150 without GAP). Seems like a good deal.
 
New Mazda owner here! I got 2020 cx5 Signature machine grey for 36,233. I comp shop 4 mazda dealer near me and that was the best price I received. The other 2 dealers did not even bother to negotiate on their price. We have a very limited inventory on the Signature where I live. Plus, basing on my trade in value, you can tell I am overdue for a new ride. :)

MSRP $38780
Discount $2275
Selling Price $36505
Doc Fee $199
Remote Start $679
Trade in $400
Rebates $750 with 0% APR for 60 months and no payments for 90 days
OTD $36233

Question: Since Signature model have all those bells and whistles, I am very tempted to get the extended warranty for 10 yr/100000 miles but not to the tune of $2856 the F&I quoted me. I said I’d think about it. Anybody here sees value on EW? And for how much?
 
Call around, you should be able to get an extended service contract for about $1,800, go with the Mazda product plan, it's the closest to a Mazda warranty.
 
I bought a 2017 mica blue CX5 with 14,150 miles on it for $19,950. I thought it was a good deal as I looked at many other cars at several other dealerships.
 
My dealership is trying to get me to do the Diamond Total Protection Package from Ziebart which includes: Super Rust Protection, Underbody Sound Barrier, Diamond Gloss Paint Protection and Ultra Fabric Protection at $1299 totals. What kind of Paint and Fabric protection is really needed for the CX-5? Should I stay away from underbody protections?
 
Stay away. Even if you want to do that "protection" package, I'll bet you can have it done outside the dealership for half what they are charging you.

Personally I wouldn't do any of that anyway. If you have fabric seats, get a couple of cans of scotchguard and DIY. The rest is hokem for modern cars.
 
My dealership is trying to get me to do the Diamond Total Protection Package from Ziebart which includes: Super Rust Protection, Underbody Sound Barrier, Diamond Gloss Paint Protection and Ultra Fabric Protection at $1299 totals. What kind of Paint and Fabric protection is really needed for the CX-5? Should I stay away from underbody protections?
Don't go for it. If you are financing the vehicle through the dealership, they might say the package will cost you only a few more dollars a month through the end of the term. You can get this done much cheaper elsewhere.
 
If it's something you're even remotely considering, even though most of us think it has little value, check with Ziebart directly on price. I'd like if you would make a phone call right now and post what they tell you just so we can see
 
My dealership is trying to get me to do the Diamond Total Protection Package from Ziebart which includes: Super Rust Protection, Underbody Sound Barrier, Diamond Gloss Paint Protection and Ultra Fabric Protection at $1299 totals. What kind of Paint and Fabric protection is really needed for the CX-5? Should I stay away from underbody protections?
Skip that stuff, by all means. I don't know what they mean by Super Rust Protection but if it involves drilling any holes to inject stuff they should be arrested. That's more likely to cause rust than prevent it.
 
Skip that stuff, by all means. I don't know what they mean by Super Rust Protection but if it involves drilling any holes to inject stuff they should be arrested. That's more likely to cause rust than prevent it.

Agreed. Skip it all. If you want the protection without the pricetag, these are my suggestions.

Get an independent shop to apply Fluid Film to the metal parts of the undercarriage (really only necessary if you drive on roads that are heavily salted in the winter), or DIY. It'll be a lot more cost-effective.

Buy a bottle of Turtle Wax Ice Seal 'n Shine, or Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax, or any other similar "spray wax" product. You can wash your car, then apply the spray wax to wet panels and buff it off as you go around the car. It adds a really minor step to your car wash procedure, but it will ensure that your paint will always have some form of chemical paint protection (as long as you wash your car once every 2-3 months). Otherwise, grab a <$10 bottle of NuFinish and apply it to the paint once or twice a year.
 
My dealership is trying to get me to do the Diamond Total Protection Package from Ziebart which includes: Super Rust Protection, Underbody Sound Barrier, Diamond Gloss Paint Protection and Ultra Fabric Protection at $1299 totals. What kind of Paint and Fabric protection is really needed for the CX-5? Should I stay away from underbody protections?

Your vehicle already has rust protection from the factory just as all automobiles do. The entire body is completely submerged during an e-coat process that covers every nook and cranny. Some aftermarket rust protection can actually make rust worse by trapping moisture.

Your vehicle already has felt-lined rear wheel wells, "acoustic" glass, multiple door seals, spray foam insulation, and other forms of sound insulation and is one of the quietest vehicles in its class.

Your vehicle already has paint protection - it's called "clear coat" which has been standard since the 1980s. The best thing you can do for your paint is to hand wash the vehicle regularly with car wash soap and apply a good wax once or twice a year. Even though this will keep the paint looking new for years, we're talking about a $25,000 commodity vehicle here - not a $250,000 exotic sports car that will be preserved in a museum for a hundred years. It's going to get dents, scrapes, scratches, and chips in the real world no matter how much you spend trying to protect it or how careful you are - the only way to avoid this is to never drive it.

Fabric protection? If you insist, go buy a can of Scotch Guard from Wal-Mart for $10 and save yourself $1,289.

EDIT: Disregard some of the duplicated suggestions - I see @sm1ke already replied while I was (slowly) typing (with distractions). :)
 
Last edited:
MSRP $38780
Discount $2275
Selling Price $36505
Doc Fee $199
Remote Start $679
Trade in $400
Rebates $750 with 0% APR for 60 months and no payments for 90 days
OTD $36233

That's great for an OTD price. Your state doesn't have Sales tax or license registration fees?
 
This is the price breakdown I was given:

clear door Edge 276

window tint life time warranty 426

wheels locks 207

nitro filled tires with life time fill up 386.

Wondering why he's inflating things that I can clearly see on Mazda, wheel locks are $60. Not sure what exactly clear door edge is, and we know that nitro is definitely not worth over $300. If he removes or discounts all these we will likely have a deal soon.

Also, state farm does not offer gap for anyone wondering.

Learn to walk away from a deal. Everything seems super shady about these guys. Not to be mean, but it seems like you're not the best when it comes to negotiating or asking the right questions.
 
Get an independent shop to apply Fluid Film to the metal parts of the undercarriage (really only necessary if you drive on roads that are heavily salted in the winter), or DIY. It'll be a lot more cost-effective.
I'd question the value of that. It is SOP in the industry to zinc hot dip the chassis. Steel body panels are zinc electroplated. I've owned a variety of vehicles from a variety of makers over several decades, ranging up to 150,000 and 14 years, driving in Chicago region and Buffalo region winters. I've never had a rust problem except for a silver dollar sized rust spot on the hood of a 1992 Expo common to that model, something rust proofing wouldn't have prevented anyway.

I don't think the person asking about these aftermarket treatments is about to DIY an undercarriage rust preventative. I don't believe he should pay for it either.
Buy a bottle of Turtle Wax Ice Seal 'n Shine, or Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax, or any other similar "spray wax" product. You can wash your car, then apply the spray wax to wet panels and buff it off as you go around the car. It adds a really minor step to your car wash procedure, but it will ensure that your paint will always have some form of chemical paint protection (as long as you wash your car once every 2-3 months). Otherwise, grab a <$10 bottle of NuFinish and apply it to the paint once or twice a year.
These are good DIY suggestions that a person of minimal skill can do without causing harm or spending a lot of money, just some time. If one is in the habit of taking their car to the car wash with some frequency, pay the extra buck or two for the undercarriage wash and a spritz of wax. That wax won't last very long but it gets you a quick shine like the other quick waxes. I'm a fan of NuFinish as noted earlier, but some folks are not into spending an afternoon debugging, detarring, washing, drying and applying. Truth be told, you could do nothing to the surface of a contemporary car other than wash it, then apply NuFinish or a good wax after 5 years, and it will look quite good.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Since there's no dedicated 'car care products' section, hint, hint, I'm going to add to the aforementioned list of excellent and easy to use products. Spray Duragloss Aquawax on a wet car after washing and dry the car as normal, or on a clean dry car. 1 gallon is less than $40 and you can't find any review that doesn't love it.

Thee's tons of easy to use products and I won't list them all, but look at Amazon and you'll see this is a no-brainer.
 
clear door Edge 276...Not sure what exactly clear door edge is
It's supposed to prevent chipped paint on the edges of doors. There are two kinds I'm aware of. There's film applications, the kind that some folks put on their hood. Then there's the less attractive kind, a skinny clear tube slit vertically to fit over the door edge, for lack fo a better description. I'd guess the latter kind better achieves its purpose and might prevent a chip in an adjacent car in the garage if you get careless.

If you check around you'd see the materials for either of these approaches is $15 or less at retail for 4 doors if you're DIY inclined. But it gives you an idea that $276 is nealy pure profit with probably less than a 1/2 hour labor. Some guy who puts this stuff on all day probably does it in a couple of minutes.

There's another kind which I have on my Sienna, body-colored metal strips which were on the sticker at $76 (six years ago) for the two front doors, not the rear sliders. I fail to see their purpose. They're painted metal and chip just like an unprotected door edge would.

Alternatively, you can buy a paint pen and touch up when needed.
 
Back