Vibrating front end of car when breaks applied above 65 mph. Root cause ?

kulkarnipb

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2012, CX-9 Touring
I have 2012 4WD Cx-9 Touring. Odometer is 51k. History - I purchased from dealer as a pre-owned certified car in 2015. At that time odometer was 33k. Previously it was used as a fleet vehicle ( as carfax stated ).

I started observing a pattern nowadays - when I apply break on and above 65 mph on highways, car shakes ( specially at front). Not sure what is the root cause. Recently I was advised to do a rear rotor job by dealer, which I did not do yet. I am not sure - if the rear rotor is root cause of this issue. Could it be ?

Can someone please guide ? Thanks in advance.
 
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Has the lower control arm recall been completed on your vehicle? Could be a contributing factor.
 
Ok. Thanks everyone for earlier responses. Here is the new update.

Control arm recall done. At the same time I asked dealer to check vibration and noisy sound issue. Dealer related that to warped front rotors and bridge-stone tires . I was offered to replace rotors, which I declined.
Then after a week, I replaced all the rotors ( front and rear ) with centric premium and ceramic proact brake pads. All the sound, that used to come inside cabin has ( almost) gone. I believe that is due to the new quite brake pads, I used. Since there is very less noise inside cabin, I am able to isolate the vibration ( and some kinda different sound ) issue is coming from front passenger side wheel. I believe, based on other posts on forum, that this is due to wheel bearings. I will push dealer hard next time to change wheel bearings since they are covered under factory warranty ( alike rotors which are wear and tear ) .
I want to check - if there is anything other than wheel bearing, I should check for this vibration issue ?

Thanks in advance.
 
If you need wheel bearing(s) already, you need to start going to a different mechanical shop, because whoever you are using has been over-tightening the lugs on your wheels, causing premature bearing failure. Whenever I go to a tire shop, the first thing I do when I get home is loosen / tighten lugs to about 115 foot pounds. I am convinced beyond a shadow of a doubt that bearing failure is directly related to pneumatic guns at mechanical shops.
Im also due for brakes. My Centric e-coated front rotors have some serious pad printing and general pad transfer (some refer to this as "warped") and the ceramic pads sound horrible when backing out of the driveway (cold). Gonna try either oem pads or Centric semi-metallic pads next go around.

Hope you solve all your issues!
 
Consider a stuck caliper.

Brake rotors almost never warp. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
We know the brake judder is real, but the cause is usually uneven deposition of the pad material on the rotor surface. Turning the rotor cuts off the pad material when the iron is cut away. Problem solved. Or the pad material is discarded when the rotor is discarded. Problem solved. But a good sanding to remove the pad material and higher quality pads usually solve the problem at lower cost. Actual warping would require a dial indicator to measure run out and compare that to the run out when new discs were installed. There probably has been no change. 0.002" is a common max run out spec for new discs, and don't be surprised to find 0.003" As that high spot is rubbed harder on the pads, more material is deposited on the disc. At some point the deposited material gets grabby, and that makes the pedal pulsate and the driver complain about warped rotors. Solution--higher grade pads that handle the heat better. Or, use a dial indicator when new rotors are installed, and rotate them on the lugs to the position that shows the lowest run out.
 
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