Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

⋯ IMO if owners are checking ATF level when the blue light goes off, or the OBD coolant temp is at 122F, then they are overfilling the fluid if they fill to the upper mark. And, as I've posted previously, I believe that Mazda (or any other automaker) does not send vehicles from the factory with any fluid impactfully underfilled (or overfilled), except for very, very rare mistakes.
Just want to say there’re quite a few people checked the ATF level at 122°F ATF temperature from OBDII reader and found the ATF level was under-filled from factory. Some people are confused with the “marker” on the ATF dipstick and there’s no High and Low lines, only the square “central marker”. Anything measured below the square “central marker” means the ATF level is low. Here’s Kedis82ZE8’s post using OBDLink MX+ and his factory ATF level was low too:

Transmission fluid change without filter replacement
 
I haven't checked my level yet because of the placement of the dip stick. The fluid should be hot enough after driving for 20 minutes or so right? Back in the day we just pulled out the dip stick after a drive and checked it as easy as checking the oil level.
 
I haven't checked my level yet because of the placement of the dip stick. The fluid should be hot enough after driving for 20 minutes or so right? Back in the day we just pulled out the dip stick after a drive and checked it as easy as checking the oil level.
It might be too hot by then.
 
Like concept said, you should be fine without belly pan installed. I would leave it off when I do multiple ATF drain-and-fills.

Do you plan to replace the ATF filter cartridge? If you do, may be you should do it at the second ATF drain-and-fill like Digbicks1234 suggested in another thread to prevent the accidental leakage issue with new pan sealant. And how did you handle the air box so that you can leave the engine idling and have the space to take the ATF measurement?

2016.5 CX-5 Transmission fluid change questions
I had not planned on replacing the filter cartridge. Do you think I should? I really didn't want to mess with dropping the pan, especially with how long the car has to sit to let it fully drain and then to let the RTV cure completely. My wife can't drive any of my other vehicles (manual gearboxes on the other cars).
It might be too hot by then.
Definitely too hot. The ATF temp was up to 122 after about maybe 10-15 minutes of idling.
 
I had not planned on replacing the filter cartridge. Do you think I should? I really didn't want to mess with dropping the pan, especially with how long the car has to sit to let it fully drain and then to let the RTV cure completely. My wife can't drive any of my other vehicles (manual gearboxes on the other cars).
I’d leave it alone if you don’t want to mess with it. I’m on the fence myself about doing that at 100k. It sounds like a real PITA. I want to drop the pan to clean it off and remove any sludge from the magnet but that may just be OCD.
 
I’d leave it alone if you don’t want to mess with it. I’m on the fence myself about doing that at 100k. It sounds like a real PITA. I want to drop the pan to clean it off and remove any sludge from the magnet but that may just be OCD.
Right. I think I'll wait and see how the fluid analysis comes back before I decide what to do next. I remember dropping the pan and changing the filter on my wife's old 96 Corolla with 4-speed slushbox. But of course that was a lot less sophisticated than the Skyactiv 6AT. And it used an actual gasket on the pan.
 
I had not planned on replacing the filter cartridge. Do you think I should? I really didn't want to mess with dropping the pan, especially with how long the car has to sit to let it fully drain and then to let the RTV cure completely. My wife can't drive any of my other vehicles (manual gearboxes on the other cars).
If you see how much gunk accumulated to the magnet inside of the ATF pan, you’d have the urge to take the pan down and clean it up, and change the ATF filter cartridge at the same time.

2016.5 CX-5 Transmission fluid change questions
 
Oh! That reminds me. If I end up removing the pan I read a cool tip to help reinstall it. Stick dowel rods in the bolt holes of the transmission body. Use those as guides for the pan so you can mate it perfectly to the transmission. Remove the dowel rods as you go to install bolts. Blew my mind how simple that was.
 
I'd be more worried about causing a problem where there was none before, in removing and replacing the pan. That seems like a bigger risk than just leaving the original filter in place.
 
I'd be more worried about causing a problem where there was none before, in removing and replacing the pan. That seems like a bigger risk than just leaving the original filter in place.
That’s what the competing voice is in my head too lol. If it ain’t broke...

I’m likely going to do it anyway but definitely at my own risk 😂
 
That’s what the competing voice is in my head too lol. If it ain’t broke...

I’m likely going to do it anyway but definitely at my own risk 😂
If you enjoy it. I did an unnecessary 4-corner brake job over the Christmas break, so who am I to say anything.
 
If you see how much gunk accumulated to the magnet inside of the ATF pan, you’d have the urge to take the pan down and clean it up, and change the ATF filter cartridge at the same time.

2016.5 CX-5 Transmission fluid change questions
man I don't know. Seeing how finicky that pan is with getting the sealant just right, I really feel like I don't want to mess with it. Plus, FOURTEEN quarts of fluid??? I only bought 12 with the intent of draining and refilling 3 times.

As for the question about running the car with the airbox off, I removed the top of the air box, the filter, and then removed that entire lower box and resonator. Then I attached the air box lid back to the intake tube and reconnected the MAF sensor. That way the car could run just fine, while I had easy access to the dipstick.

However I did notice after I finished everything that I had a code relating to the intake air temperature, possibly due to running the engine with the airbox lid just hanging out in open air. I simply cleared that code and it's been fine ever since.
 
man I don't know. Seeing how finicky that pan is with getting the sealant just right, I really feel like I don't want to mess with it. Plus, FOURTEEN quarts of fluid??? I only bought 12 with the intent of draining and refilling 3 times.
Yes if I were you under time constraint I may just skip it taking the ATF pan down. But the quantity of ATF you need to take the pan down once and replace the filter cartridge should be about the same as you do only the drain-and-fill. 12 quarts for 1 drop-the-pan and 2 drain-and-fills should be enough as each drain-and-fill needs about 3.75 quarts ATF, and 1 drop-the-pan should take 4.2~4.5 quarts.

And the trick of sticking dowel rods in the bolt holes actually has boosted my confidence to drop the ATF pan and apply the silicon sealant.
 
Last edited:
Blackstone report for fluid drained at around 113,000 miles. Think I'll just continue on with another fluid drain this weekend, and then another after 2 more weeks. Not going to mess with the pan.

Capture.JPG
 
Blackstone report for fluid drained at around 113,000 miles. Think I'll just continue on with another fluid drain this weekend, and then another after 2 more weeks. Not going to mess with the pan.

View attachment 234681
The worst case taking the ATF down and put it back with silicon sealant is leak. It takes time and more ATF if you did it the last round of drain-and-fills to re-do it. I guess once I saw how much sludge on the magnetic and pan, I can’t resist the urge to clean them up. Putting on a new filter cartridge is the secondary to me. Of course this’s just me, skipping the pan drop is perfectly fine.

And please post your used ATF analysis to the following thread:

Skyactiv Transmission Fluid Analysis Thread
 
Just rolled 100K miles on my 2014 CX-5 GT and after reading several comments in forums about realities of "lifetime" transmission fluid, decided to contact my local dealer to inquire about fluid drain/refill and filter change. They said they do the D/R but not filter change. I was surprised to hear that. Just assumed filter change would be a no brainer, understanding that the transmission pan has to be dropped to change the filter.

Wondering what you all think about just doing the D/R without filter change? Seems to me like that would reduce the benefit of having new fluid?
Thanks
L
Just did my new to me 2013 CX-5 with 90,000 on it yesterday. Dropped the pan, cleaned the magnet, replaced the old filter with a new Wix part number WL10379. The Wix comes with a rubber gasket, so you don't have to worry about letting the RTV set.

Because I dropped the pan and filter, it changes a lot more fluid than a simple drain and fill. Normal drain and fills are about 3 quarts, the filter drop is about 4.5 quarts of Mazda Type FZ and ONLY MAZDA FZ!!! Don't be tempted to use generic parts store ATF. I promise, it ain't the same stuff. Hell, the FZ is even blue!
 
Last edited:
Just did my new to me 2013 CX-5 with 90,000 on it yesterday. Dropped the pan, cleaned the magnet, replaced the old filter with a new Wix part number WL10379. The Wix comes with a rubber gasket, so you don't have to worry about letting the RTV set.

Because I dropped the pan and filter, it changes a lot more fluid than a simple drain and fill. Normal drain and fills are about 3 quarts, the filter drop is about 4.5 quarts of Mazda Type FZ and ONLY MAZDA FZ!!! Don't be tempted to use generic parts store ATF. I promise, it ain't the same stuff. Hell, the FZ is even blue!
That’s very good to know regarding the WIX gasket. Thank you for sharing!
 
That’s very good to know regarding the WIX gasket. Thank you for sharing!
There must be a reason why car manufactures started to use silicon sealant instead of traditional cork gasket on ATF pan. Applying silicon will be more time consuming, in theory it’s not worth it for car manufactures to do it. Cork gasket on ATF pan is horrible and will start to leak in a short period of time. Newer synthetic rubber gasket should be better, but still why it’s not been used by the factory?
 
Back