CX-5 Trailer Hitch

Is there such thing as a factory installed hitch or is a dealer add on? I've seen pictures on this forum of clean installs and butchered bumpers and wondered was it a good dealer vs. a bad dealer job or factory vs. dealer.
 
Is there such thing as a factory installed hitch or is a dealer add on? I've seen pictures on this forum of clean installs and butchered bumpers and wondered was it a good dealer vs. a bad dealer job or factory vs. dealer.
The horrible bumper cutting done by a Mazda dealer we had seen here is really a bad job done by the technician. Unfortunately if you go for Mazda genuine accessory trailer hitch on gen-2 CX-5, bumper cutting is inevitable and I really dont feel thats an easy job to make the bumper looks pretty after cutting. For Mazda genuine accessary trailer hitch, the best is to have it done at the port, which will be listed on factory window sticker as an optional accessary item.

Some aftermarket trailer hitch doesnt need bumper cutting, so as some Mazda genuine accessary trailer hitch offered in other countries such as Australia.
 
There's a factory hitch and Curt or Drawtite aftermarket hitches. I have the factory hitch on mine and it looks cleanly integrated. I had it installed as condition of purchase. The technician is supposed to use the cutting template included with the hitch. Here's mine.

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I went with the factory hitch because it mounts higher on the frame than the aftermarket ones (could be a little higher, but it's fine). The Curt and DrawTite are both solid units and offer the more common 2" receiver standard.
 
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That butchered bumper cover was incredible. The owner got a cover to hide it and it looked good, but oh my god. If I saw that I would start crying and would want a different brand new car.

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That butchered bumper cover was incredible. The owner got a cover to hide it and it looked good, but oh my god. If I saw that I would start crying and would want a different brand new car.

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That really does look like it was done with a steak knife.
 
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I really don't see any functional benefit to the factory hitch - and more downside if it requires cutting the bumper.
Not mentioned yet: There is a Curt Class II 1 1/4" hitch. I went this route because I already owned 1 1/4" tow bar accessories like the ball mount and a bicycle carrier. Also the CX-5 factory hitch and tow capacity lines up with Class II. You can view pictures on etrailer which is were I have purchased hitches for at least 4 different cars. Great service, prices and installation help if you need it. I also used the T-connector for trailer wiring. And, instead of running a power wire to the battery I tapped into the rear accessory outlet on the right side (blue wire on my 2018). My wiring sits inside the car under the rear spare tire panel until it is needed. Living in the salt belt this is my preference for trailer wiring.
If you prefer to pay someone to install the hitch and wiring then see if there are any trailer hitch specialists in your area. I know many have used u-haul or similar with good results. In my area there is a shop specializing in trailer hitch installs and accessories. They are fast and do good work. Dealer or independent shops can also do this for you - but this is a rare job for them. But if you have a good relationship with a shop I'm sure they would take the time and do it right for you. You just have to be willing to pay for a good job.
 
The OEM hitch is lighter, but I went with etrailer thinking I could remove it as I dont use it a lot. Its too much physical labor to remove so it will probably stay put for now.

I dont have a trailer and dont need 12v for a bike rack or cargo tray so I haven't tapped into the lights yet.

I think the light kit was another $60.
 
No disrespect for the use of OEM parts. Just an alternative that will get you the functionality of being able to add a cargo tray, bicycle carrier or tow a small trailer or a small boat.

The OEM hitch is class I so it will be lighter compared to a class III hitch. The class III hitch is made heavier because it is also rated to carry heavier stuff - 600 lbs tongue weight and 6000 tow weight. Is the class II hitch heavier? I'll take your word for it, but think the difference is negligible.
 
The OEM hitch is lighter, but I went with etrailer thinking I could remove it as I dont use it a lot. Its too much physical labor to remove so it will probably stay put for now.

Yeah - the receiver portion of the hitch is not made to be easily removed - just the stuff you add to the receiver. And if you think about it ideally the receiver portion is best completely integrated with the car. Both OEM and aftermarket options get a pretty solid mount. The Curt class II hitch actually uses the same holes in the unibody frame as the OEM hitch.
 
3 reasons I went factory:

1. Factory OEM part
2. Ground clearance
3. Lowest total weight

#2 for me.

When I was making this decision before I ordered my car, I called a Draw Tite dealer and he was nice enough to send me a pic of their hitch installed on a CX-5. It protruded from below the bumper. I prefer the OEM look of being up tight to the underside of the car.

I ordered my car from the factory, and the dealer had one in my color arrive well before my order was due in. I took it and the dealer installed the hitch (along with some other accessories). They did a perfect job.
 
It is up to one's personal choice and what they will use it for. I got the Curt class 3 and am very happy with it. I already have 2" accessories from my last car. There is about 10 1/4" ground clearance and it is about even with the bumper (the first picture), it's unobtrusive and not all that noticeable. It's 34 pounds which isn't too bad. I picked the Curt over etrailer's draw-tight hitch because I didn't like the metal plate that is welded above the receiver on the draw-tight.

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hitch1.jpg
 
I'll add some photos for non-OEM installation. I went with the Draw-Tite (76138) one and installed myself (used some RhinoRamps and a torque wrench and had it done in under an hour). I tried to get a photo of the top plate so you can see how unobtrusive it is. Additionally, here is some info on the difference between the Curtis and Draw-Tite hitches: https://www.etrailer.com/question-325079.html. Don't get too caught up as both hitches are fine.

Ignore the dirty garage!
 

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#2 for me.

When I was making this decision before I ordered my car, I called a Draw Tite dealer and he was nice enough to send me a pic of their hitch installed on a CX-5. It protruded from below the bumper. I prefer the OEM look of being up tight to the underside of the car.

I ordered my car from the factory, and the dealer had one in my color arrive well before my order was due in. I took it and the dealer installed the hitch (along with some other accessories). They did a perfect job.

One of the photos I included was top down from the rear of the bumper. You definitely cannot see the Draw-Tite hitch from the top down and it is ever so slightly recessed behind the bumper. Mine even has a receiver cover (the dive flag) that sticks out beyond the receiver end just a tad.
 
While I could remove a factory hitch later the expense of replacing the bumper cover would be high.

I guess integrated hitches like those on larger SUVs are better but they're not worth it to me. I have used the hitch to expand cargo capacity for furniture that wouldn't fit inside but normally I don't need to.

I removed my roof rack rails and crossbars and store in my garage. They add a noticeable drag in windy conditions. They only take minutes to install when I want to carry something on the roof.
 
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