Speaker size in CX-5 2017?

... OEM speaker in the door is a woofer, even if full range. It's just not a sub-woofer.

Agree that dropping in a coaxial and leaving the tweeter alone will be an easier mod, but dropping in a proper component set will no doubt sound better even on head unit power.
I have different definition of "woofer". Woofer or sub-woofer is designed for low frequencies. A full-range speaker is designed to cover full 20Hz~20,000Hz for our ears. A dual-cone speaker is a cheaply made full-range speaker using a small whizzer cone attached to the center of the woofer helping to reproduce the high frequencies. But the 2-way coaxial speaker comes with an independent tweeter with crossover which will have much better sound quality for full-range frequencies than dual-cone speaker.

Since our OEM non-Bose audio system uses dual-cone 6" full-range speakers on doors, the output from Tuner and Amp Unit is a full-range frequencies. If you use component speaker setup, I believe you'd lose high notes from your door speakers with new woofers which has no attached tweeter to produce high notes.
 
... Mazda's original tweeters were a total shame, never heard them in action with any music. When I removed the A pillar and checked the wiring I realised that the capacitors were connected to the negative wire ( yellow wire on the right tweeter and white and black wire on the left tweeter) from the amplifier! That was odd since all circuit diagrams on the tweeter in internet show that the tweeters capacitors are connected to the positive wire, so what is going on Mazda? More reading on the internet revealed that the capacitor can be connected to the positive (as usually done) or the negative wire (seldom done). The problem with that is that we do not know if they switched only the capacitor position or even the plus and minus wire switch to the tweeter by mistake, since there is no marking of plus or minus in the tweeter. The green wire on both sides in Mazda CX-5 2017, non Bose is the live/positive wire. I did not want to risk the mistake, so I connected the new Tweeter (TS 120 bought from china, ) with the capacitor side connected to the positive wire (positive wire, the green wire checked with voltmeter) and what a difference it made to the sound!
This's interesting. Can you tell what's the uF of the OEM tweeter crossover capacitor? It should be a non-polarized capacitor and yes it should be connected to the positive side.

Here're 2 speaker schematics for 2018 CX-5 Bose as I couldn't find one for non-Bose. It shows green / light-green wires are for negative. So I believe the original connection was correct and you now switched the polarization on tweeters.

Interestingly on 2018 Bose the schematic doesn't show any crossover capacitors for OEM tweeters. And these silk dome 25mm / 1" Bose tweeters are connected directly from wires of front-door 165mm / 6" full-range speakers. The rear left / right speakers are actually single-channel fill-in speakers connected from a single output of the audio amplifier.

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This's interesting. Can you tell what's the uF of the OEM tweeter crossover capacitor? It should be a non-polarized capacitor and yes it should be connected to the positive side.

Here're 2 speaker schematics for 2018 CX-5 Bose as I couldn't find one for non-Bose. It shows green / light-green wires are for negative. So I believe the original connection was correct and you now switched the polarization on tweeters.

I have checked with volt meter and the reading has suggested that in each of my speakers (all six of them) that the green wire is the positive wire. Funnily enough in the door 6.5 inch speaker contact pin, there is a small round yellow dot indicator pointing to that green wire side in all 4 door speakers. So I have followed the same scheme after checking with voltmeter each time. There may be a difference between Bose and non Bose. It sounds so much better too." I'll try to post a picture of that yellow dot on the connector.

The capacitor is built by Elna/Elma therefore good quality, I am sure but can not read any microfarady number on it.
Here are thedoor speaker photos with the yellow dot on the green wire side (pointing possibly to the live side) and the tweeter wire that has the same colour as door speaker.
20180520_134717.jpg20180601_181716.jpg20180520_132426.jpg
 
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I have checked with volt meter and the reading has suggested that in each of my speakers (all six of them) that the green wire is the positive wire. Funnily enough in the door 6.5 inch speaker contact pin, there is a small round yellow dot indicator pointing to that green wire side in all 4 door speakers. So I have followed the same scheme after checking with voltmeter each time. There may be a difference between Bose and non Bose. It sounds so much better too." I'll try to post a picture of that yellow dot on the connector.

The capacitor is built by Elna/Elma therefore good quality, I am sure but can not read any microfarady number on it.
This's really weird! I can't imagine Mazda would make this kind of mistake on all speaker's polarities during design and assembly. All wires are color-coded I really can't believe they screwed up this easily. I hope I could find gen-2 CX-5 non-Bose schematic but I also think Mazda would use the same color-coding scheme on either Bose or non-Bose speakers. May be we can PM Anchorman and see if he can locate one.

On the other hand, since you switched all speaker's polarities form factory you at least don't have out of phase issue among all speakers. :)
 
Check out the post above for photos. Just added them. Look carefully at the dot, it must mean something and it was on the same side of all speakers, pointing to the green wire. No I do not have phase problem.
 
OK I have finished changing the four door speakers (done earlier) and today the A pillar tweeters. I used The Hertz coaxial 165.3 for the front door (deeper speakers, bigger magnet and more low end, 40 Hz, 92dB ) and a pair of Hertz 170.3 coaxials for the rear doors (slightly smaller magnet , not as deep and slightly higher low end 50Hz , 92 dB). These speakers sound great, lot of base and detail but base being heavy in the Mazda all ready, it can overpower the treble and there fore the new A-pillar tweeters as well. Mazda's original tweeters were a total shame, never heard them in action with any music. When I removed the A pillar and checked the wiring I realised that the capacitors were connected to the negative wire ( yellow wire on the right tweeter and white and black wire on the left tweeter) from the amplifier! That was odd since all circuit diagrams on the tweeter in internet show that the tweeters capacitors are connected to the positive wire, so what is going on Mazda? More reading on the internet revealed that the capacitor can be connected to the positive (as usually done) or the negative wire (seldom done). The problem with that is that we do not know if they switched only the capacitor position or even the plus and minus wire switch to the tweeter by mistake, since there is no marking of plus or minus in the tweeter. The green wire on both sides in Mazda CX-5 2017, non Bose is the live/positive wire. I did not want to risk the mistake, so I connected the new Tweeter (TS 120 bought from china, ) with the capacitor side connected to the positive wire (positive wire, the green wire checked with voltmeter) and what a difference it made to the sound! Now suddenly the new tweeters are in action, all guitars and cymbals just jumping out with audio sound stage! The set up is brilliant, base, midrange are really good. Do not need subwoofer. The treble is gentle, not harsh at all and sound stage is worth dying for. Lot of detail in the music no matter what you throw at it. The original amplifier radio must be very good too since it can relay and amplify that sound. I and my wife spent clean 2 hours listening to different sorts of music (almost draining the battery! Got a C-Tek charger connected after the listening session). Never heard so much detail and involving music in any of my cars before (including a BMW with alpine system and xtra amplifier and subwoofer). This is magic and my wife is the blind experimental subject. She is thrilled. Who needs Bose? Sorry, I got carried away for a while! A word of caution, the tweeter replacement was the most difficult task of all!
A little advice for folk who want to change the tweeter, try switching the wires to the original tweeters (plus and minus wire switch) to see if they come out alive (I did not check that unfortunately). That may cure the disease of silent tweeters in these cars or not! The original tweeters are advertised as 1inch and that is a lie. They are smaller and a pain to change since the holder will not hold a one inch tweeter. I had to once more do lot of DIY to get an one inch to fit in that space, not for the faint hearted so if the original tweeters work with wire switching, use them instead.
The speakers are,
Front door, https://www.abt.com/product/68708/Hertz-Dieci-Coax-6.5-DSK-165.3-2-Way-Coaxial-System-DCX1653.html
Rear door, https://www.mobilesoundworks.com/product_p/hertz-dcx-170.3.htm

The tweeters are,
https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

Thanks so much for all the info on here.

3 questions:

1: The DCX 165.3 you installed are 2.8" deep. Do you reckon there is space for the slightly deeper MPX 165.3 Pro which is 2.91" deep?
2: The DCX have a frequency response of 60-21k hz. Do you wish you had the deeper response of the MPX which is 45-21.5k hz?
3: Is the higher sensitivity in the DCX (93db) worth the trade off for less frequency response? The MPX is slightly less sensitive (92db).
 
I also would like to change my two front speakers and maybe tweeters...does anyone know how many watts the bose amp puts out and at what resistance? I'd like to change speakers and leave the stock speaker amp, but don't want to significantly underpower aftermarket speakers.

I also plan on adding a subwoofer
 
Check out the post above for photos. Just added them. Look carefully at the dot, it must mean something and it was on the same side of all speakers, pointing to the green wire. No I do not have phase problem.

Did you get your tweeters behind the A-Pillar (looking stock), or did you cut out the grille and surface mount in the pillar?
 
As requested, schematics for none Bose systems on the KF. Unfortunately, I cant seem to find one on the KE but its very similar as far as I know.
 

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Did you get your tweeters behind the A-Pillar (looking stock), or did you cut out the grille and surface mount in the pillar?

I left the grill as it was so that you see nothing abnormal from the out side. It is all stealth!
 
Thanks so much for all the info on here.

3 questions:

1: The DCX 165.3 you installed are 2.8" deep. Do you reckon there is space for the slightly deeper MPX 165.3 Pro which is 2.91" deep?
2: The DCX have a frequency response of 60-21k hz. Do you wish you had the deeper response of the MPX which is 45-21.5k hz?
3: Is the higher sensitivity in the DCX (93db) worth the trade off for less frequency response? The MPX is slightly less sensitive (92db).

1. I never measured the depth but felt that there was enough space to fit the 165.3 in the front. It would have been tight at the rear doors and luckily, there I had chosen the 170.3 which are shallower.
2. Sorry I seem to have quoted wrong frequency from memory. You are correct. But the mid base is heavy here. When you put them in the door and the perimeter of the speaker cage is well sealed to the frame mount (I used window sealent rubber strip around the perimeter of the hole) the base really tends to overpower the tweeter sound. So adding the xtra tweeters in the A pillar was a blessing. It also focused the sound better. How deep does base go here? I really do not know but it is deep enough. I can hear the drum rolls and kick drums pretty loud. I think this speaker's strong points are the mid range and mid base with clarity.The Hertz are really good for their size and money. If you are a base junky then it will not be enough. I personally do not need a subwoofer with this set up.
3. I do not know but changing from the original set up to Hertz made a big difference in loudness (for the same volume input) and clarity and mid base became tighter. Lot more engaging then the original set up. Can you really tell a difference between 92 dB and 93 dB? I doubt.
I chose Hertz after seeing and hearing this comparison on you tube but hej your MPX could be better.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hovTbsipy4
one more comparison Hertz to alpine and kenwood 6.5 inch speakers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5vvB_uQClo

OK I spent some time listening to the mpx speaker on the you tube and I immediately recognized the change that Hertz have brought about in the MPX series and mitigated the earlier problem of overpowering of high notes by base and mid base. The tweeter in the MPX is really nice and loud enough to not let the base over power it. I think it is a better balanced speaker than mine but quite expensive too.
 
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I found these too. Thanks to our mate who uploaded parts of the manual to a zip file.
 

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As requested, schematics for none Bose systems on the KF. Unfortunately, I cant seem to find one on the KE but its very similar as far as I know.
Very much appreciated for the attached document! We're discussing non-Bose audio wiring on gen-2 CX-5, and your document should apply. The schematic in your doc is a top-level which doesn't have details like the one I posted earlier on Bose, hence it doesn't have color-code info on wires and polarity info on speakers. Still the doc is valuable and I have saved it for future reference.
 
But they are NOT non Bose right, pity! Let us hope the non Bose ones turn up soon. My voltmeter should not lie, I hope!
 
Awesome, I was hoping to do this as well. Gives me hope :)

Be careful since the size of the tweeter is very critical here. I chose an one inch tweeter thinking that the original was a one inch tweeter, but it was smaller. That meant that I had to destroy the holder that keeps the original tweeter in place and create a new holder behind that grill and that was a big pain. My advice is to find a good tweeter of the same size as the original one and then replace it.
 
But they are NOT non Bose right, pity! Let us hope the non Bose ones turn up soon. My voltmeter should not lie, I hope!
Yep, unfortunately schematic from 2018 CX-5 Factory Service Manual someone posted earlier doesn't include non-Bose audio!
 

Be careful since the size of the tweeter is very critical here. I chose an one inch tweeter thinking that the original was a one inch tweeter, but it was smaller. That meant that I had to destroy the holder that keeps the original tweeter in place and create a new holder behind that grill and that was a big pain. My advice is to find a good tweeter of the same size as the original one and then replace it.
Based on many documents including the one from Japan gen-2 A-pillar silk dome tweeters are 25 mm (1") in size. I originally thought it lost in translation between metric and British system like gen-1 dash speaker the OEM actually is 80 mm (3") mid-range Twiddler but most people say it's 3½”.

From speaker setup point of view, 2017 10-speaker Bose system with 2 new A-pillar tweeters and a new spare-tire sub-woofer is definitely better than 2016 9-speaker Bose which doesn't have any of these! No, the new sub-woofer won't make big difference as it's has a small 5" speaker which has to be the smallest speak/driver I have ever seen as a sub-woofer! Remember, No highs, no lows, must be Bose!

Here are some info from Mazda Japan website about new CX-5 Bose system translated by Google. 10-speaker Bose system in 2017 CX-5 has two 1" (25 mm) tweeters at A-pillars, two 6" (165 mm) mid-range speakers on front doors, two 5" (130 mm) mid-range speakers on rear doors. Finally a sub-woofer with 5" (130 mm) speaker is located in spare tire area. Since it says two front tweeters and two corner dash mid-range door speakers form a 2-way configuration front speaker setup, we lost two corner dash 3" mid-range speakers but the center dash 3" mid-range speakers stays for surround sound effect. The 3" speaker with red border shown in the picture is the center dash speaker, the other two 3" speakers are rear fill-in for surround sound. Personally I'd prefer no Centerpoint 2 Surround Sound System like CX-3's since we don't watch movies while driving anyway! :)

理想の「マツダサウンド」をBoseと共同開発

Enjoy the high-quality comfort of the new CX-5 with five senses.
I thought about functions and equipment that can feel usability without being caught by common sense.

Developed ideal "Mazda sound" jointly with Bose
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In Mazda, "Clarity: Clear sound without distortion" "Imaging: accurately reproducing all the sounds of music from bass to treble" "Power: sound that feels heavy bass energy" is called "Bose Mazda sound "value and definition. Since this idea overlaps with the idea pursued by Bose, we collaborated with Bose from the early stages of vehicle development and realized an ideal sound system and 10 speakers for the new CX-5.

Bose sound system (AUDIOPILOT (TM) 2 + Centerpoint 2) +10 speaker
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A silk dome adopted 25 mm tweeter in the front pillar to reproduce a smooth and clear high tone. This 2-way configuration with tweeter, 165 mm speaker of the front door to properly localize vocals and each instrument. A 130 mm woofer built-in base box under the luggage room floor that produces superb heavy bass.
And rear door 130mm speaker. These 10 speakers realized a balanced, clear, realistic sound that sounds like coming from any stage anywhere on the stage. We also have a Surround System Centerpoint 2 function that reproduces with a stereoscopic sound image even with a stereo sound source, and a running noise compensation system AUDIOPILOT (TM) 2.

* Built-in woofer built-in base box of Bose sound system is installed under the trunk board.
(Maker Set Option: 20 S PROACTIVE, 25 S PROACTIVE, XD PROACTIVE, 25 S L Package, XD L Package)
 
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