OK I'll jump in. On the last move is the Mazda near any type of equipment that may produce a lot of electrical noise. Heavy motor, florescent light, LED light ETC...? Possibly interfering with the communication system the fob/auto uses. If so try pushing it somewhere else and try again. Grasping straws here.
(Solved) CX-5 won't shift out of park and won't start
- Thread starter vallis
- Start date
All fuses and relays are good in both boxes.
Every time I tried to start it, I had the key inside while overriding the shifter from P to N, back and forth. I will try that method and post back. Not a weird idea at all
There probably is. I will check around and isolate anything that could interfere with the communication and try to start it. Thank you for jumping in!
I have been looking into this in the service manual but there is no mention of how to inspect the
the shift-Lock solenoid/switch. It is covered here, but that's only for up to 2016. I removed the shifter to check if it's the same, but the connector is different. As shared in the video, the pin has 12 pins, but the 2017+ models have 8 pins. so I haven't been able to inspect it based on the instructions in the repair manual. My other option is to just replace it, but I have looked everywhere, I have yet to find this part.
Edit: I see that he fixes it, instead of replacing it. I will look into that.
Last edited:
You may have already seen this keyless system reset information and tried it, but I'm sending it along in case you have not.
https://www.realmazdaparts.com/blog/mazda-keyless-remote-issues
https://www.realmazdaparts.com/blog/mazda-keyless-remote-issues
I pushed it away from the garage, still no success.
Every time I tried to start it, I had the key inside while overriding the shifter from P to N, back and forth. I will try that method and post back. Not a weird idea at all
I tried that, still not starting.
While trying to start it, I noticed something strange. The last 3 times it started, I had the serpentine belt removed, so I received the charging system malfunction since the alternator wasn't charging the battery. Now that it's having starting issues, I still see the malfunction warning "Charging system malfunction. Stop vehicle immediately in a safe place", as if the engine is running, but obviously it is not. This malfunction error pops up when the ignition is on.
This, to me, indicates that 1) it thinks the engine is running as there is no other way for the computer to check if the alternator is charging the battery unless the pulley is spinning. 2) The malfunction is stored from last time it started even though I disconnected the battery several times.
Any thoughts on this?
This could be related to the shifter switch, as dunhillmc posted. Maybe it still reads that the shifter is not in park. I am familiar with the service bulletin and the upgraded switch that does not have the rubber end that wears out. But you'd think, 2018 would have the revised part. I will remove and inspect it.
This, to me, indicates that 1) it thinks the engine is running as there is no other way for the computer to check if the alternator is charging the battery unless the pulley is spinning. 2) The malfunction is stored from last time it started even though I disconnected the battery several times.
Any thoughts on this?
This could be related to the shifter switch, as dunhillmc posted. Maybe it still reads that the shifter is not in park. I am familiar with the service bulletin and the upgraded switch that does not have the rubber end that wears out. But you'd think, 2018 would have the revised part. I will remove and inspect it.
I will try that, thank you for the info!
Hello everybody,
I wanted to share an update. The problem was beyond regular starting/cranking issues. I had posted in ScannerDanner forum, see the link below for the fully story, but in summary, the HS-CAN was shorted and I had to find what was causing the short in the network (MS-CAN was fine). After I ruled out wiring, I started disconnecting the modules until I found the one shorting the data lines. It was the Power Lift Gate module. Once I unplugged it, I got the network back and running. The keyless system malfunction came from the Start and Stop Unit, which was unable to communicate with the ABS. I had removed the ABS assembly as it got hit during the impact and was not working. After replacing the PLG and ABS modules, everything went back to normal.
This car took me on a long ride, but it came around.
Thank you very much for your responses. If someone is reading this and need any information or have questions, I would be happy to help.
www.scannerdanner.com
I wanted to share an update. The problem was beyond regular starting/cranking issues. I had posted in ScannerDanner forum, see the link below for the fully story, but in summary, the HS-CAN was shorted and I had to find what was causing the short in the network (MS-CAN was fine). After I ruled out wiring, I started disconnecting the modules until I found the one shorting the data lines. It was the Power Lift Gate module. Once I unplugged it, I got the network back and running. The keyless system malfunction came from the Start and Stop Unit, which was unable to communicate with the ABS. I had removed the ABS assembly as it got hit during the impact and was not working. After replacing the PLG and ABS modules, everything went back to normal.
This car took me on a long ride, but it came around.
Thank you very much for your responses. If someone is reading this and need any information or have questions, I would be happy to help.
(Solved) 2018 Mazda CX-5: no crank, no start
(Solved) 2018 Mazda CX-5: no crank, no start
Thanks for sharing your outcome, which may help others in the future. And great job hanging in there, and ultimately having the thrill of victory
Even though you did mention it multiple times, I just want to point out to others looking for a solution to similar no-starts, that your vehicle had been in an accident, which was likely the underlying root cause of this problem. People often read things like this and just start hanging on the same parts that are discussed in the solution.
Not saying that something like this can't happen where there's no collision damage, only that readers of this thread are very unlikely to have this condition on their own vehicle.
You are welcome!Thanks for sharing your outcome, which may help others in the future. And great job hanging in there, and ultimately having the thrill of victory
Even though you did mention it multiple times, I just want to point out to others looking for a solution to similar no-starts, that your vehicle had been in an accident, which was likely the underlying root cause of this problem. People often read things like this and just start hanging on the same parts that are discussed in the solution.
Not saying that something like this can't happen where there's no collision damage, only that readers of this thread are very unlikely to have this condition on their own vehicle.
I agree 100%. The collision contributed to most of the issues that I experienced. Many drivers wouldn't have to deal with this except for water damage, maybe rodents cutting wires or modules going bad for unknown reason. When modules stop working, they don't necessarily short the network lines. In my case, who knows how the PLG module got shorted internally during the impact, especially it's located far from the impact area. To make the diagnostics more difficult, the module that got hit hard was the ABS, and it did not short the network. But we know that whatever happened, happened during the crash.
I will be visiting the forum and contribute.
Thank you again!
- :
- Plano, Texas, USA
Appreciate your update, and someone will be benefited from your experience sometime later.
This’s one of the reason why people should avoid getting a used car which has involved a sizable collision. And I’d get rid of the vehicle ASAP had my car involved one and got fixed.
I've got to admit, I was a little annoyed to read through this whole thread, only to find out at the end that the car had been in an accident, run without serpentine belt, parts in various states and so forth. I would have skipped it.Thanks for sharing your outcome, which may help others in the future. And great job hanging in there, and ultimately having the thrill of victory
Even though you did mention it multiple times, I just want to point out to others looking for a solution to similar no-starts, that your vehicle had been in an accident, which was likely the underlying root cause of this problem. People often read things like this and just start hanging on the same parts that are discussed in the solution.
Not saying that something like this can't happen where there's no collision damage, only that readers of this thread are very unlikely to have this condition on their own vehicle.
Similar threads
- Question
