SkyActiv Oil Analysis Thread

my cars lose too much oil to go 10K miles between oil changes. šŸ˜‚
The oil consumption isnā€™t that bad. My 2.5L NA uses about 0.3 ~ 0.7 quart of oil each time I change the oil (3,000 ~ 7,000-mile interval) with Mazda moly 0W-20.

If I were you, I may consider using 5W-30 oil which is recommended by Mazda worldwide trying to reduce the oil consumption a bit.
 
Let me preface this with, ā€œIā€™m 73 years old.ā€ Now, every since I was knee-high to a grasshopper, it was drilled into my head, ā€œ3,000 miles 3 months, whichever comes first.ā€ Ah, those were the days. No synthetic motor oils. And when they broke onto the motoring scene, I still wasted good money on that old 3,000/3mo belief. Did them myself, so not too badly expensive.

But today? With folks throwing around 9,000 mile intervals? Iā€™m just now getting acclimated to going 5,000/6 months between changes. The entire concept is mind boggling. šŸ¤·šŸ¼ā€ā™‚ļø
Perhaps the sweet spot is at 7,500 miles or 1 year. That's roughly what I've been doing the past 10 years.

I'm currently testing out the Mazda built in oil life indicator which involves the car's computer ECU to track changes inside the engine. It will display to you the current oil life expectancy based on percentage. It will be interesting to see how much percentage will be displayed at 7,500 miles (assuming its under 1 year old oil).
 
The oil consumption isnā€™t that bad. My 2.5L NA uses about 0.3 ~ 0.7 quart of oil each time I change the oil (3,000 ~ 7,000-mile interval) with Mazda moly 0W-20.

If I were you, I may consider using 5W-30 oil which is recommended by Mazda worldwide trying to reduce the oil consumption a bit.
Changing the viscosity to 5w-30 may not have real measurable effect on the oil consumption on Skyactiv N/A engines. Your personal Mazda if you pull the throttle body and take a flashlight and look inside you will most likely find that your oil consumption is from the PCV port and puddles around the bottom of the lower intake chamber. Project Engineers at Mazda have been working a solution to reduce some of that effect from the PCV system for future engines.
 
ā‹Æ Your personal Mazda if you pull the throttle body and take a flashlight and look inside you will most likely find that your oil consumption is from the PCV port and puddles around the bottom of the lower intake chamber. Project Engineers at Mazda have been working a solution to reduce some of that effect from the PCV system for future engines.
Yes, I believe thisā€™s true as we can see thereā€™s so much oil found in the intake manifold when felixd removed it from his CX-5 with only 28,9xx kms / 17,957 miles to clean the intake valves.

Video Cleaning Intake valves CX 5 Skyactiv Gasoline engine
 
Yes, I believe thisā€™s true as we can see thereā€™s so much oil found in the intake manifold when felixd removed it from his CX-5 with only 28,9xx kms / 17,957 miles to clean the intake valves.

Video Cleaning Intake valves CX 5 Skyactiv Gasoline engine
Yes, I watched the video, but it does not really show the extent of intake puddling. I also went hmmmm the condition of the engine and also that was an extreme amount of just oil carbon and gunk at only 18k miles... that's just bad.

Here is mine at about 30k miles. First time to service a causal clean by wiping the inside of intake only. No chemical cleaners.

You will notice that the PCV port at the 3 o-clock and the puddling at the 6 o-clock position.
I do a few things that keep a control on the carbon and there is only a slight amount of carbon on the back of my intake valves that is just starting to form. I did a compression and a leak down and the engine is perfect for compression across all cylinders and the leak-down barely bumped the gauge at .3 %. I think had I installed the catch can sooner on the PCV side I may have had less oil puddling. IDK. Will see next time I pull the TB to clean it? I have had a catch can on the breather side since the engine had about 4k miles and no even a hint of oil film in the hoses.
 

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I changed the oil on my CX-5 at 3,000~3,800-mile interval for the last 2 times.

But itā€™s not because I want to change the oil more often like in old days, but itā€™s because the oil life has exceeded 12 months.

This pandemic has really changed many things.

BTW, I just changed the oil on my 2016 CX-5 at 45,872 miles last week as the ā€œOil change dueā€ message and the red wrench indicator has been on since last December. The indicator was caused by the 12-month oil life, but the oil has only ~3,800 miles when I changed the oil.

I do 7K to 8K intervals on the CX5, but I had to add a quart in between, last time.

My Miata and Integra get annual oil changes due to their low miles driven. Less than 3K miles a year on the Integra.
 
I do 7K to 8K intervals on the CX5, but I had to add a quart in between, last time.

My Miata and Integra get annual oil changes due to their low miles driven. Less than 3K miles a year on the Integra.
What oil brand are you using causing the level to go low?

Also, when doing an oil change do you put oil in the new filter prior to twisting it on the engine?
 
I change the oil (3,000 ~7000) -mile interval) with Mazda moly 0W-20.
You think as I do. I change all my oils at 3k miles except the bikes. They get it changed if I do a hard weekend mountain ride in the twisties. Oil and filters are inexpensive and give lots of peace of mind. I also use oil data temperature charts (old school thinking) to decide what viscosity to use. So it is not always 0w-20.
 
Also, when doing an oil change do you put oil in the new filter prior to twisting it on the engine?
That is always a debate on all the forums. Really the oil leaves a film that remains for months maybe years on critical bearing. When the engine starts the oil pump pulls from the sump and can fill the complete engine in less than 2-5 seconds reaching the specified oil pressure. So, IMHO to fill the oil filter before installing it is just another thing that might end a mess on your garage floor if it slips out of your hand. HA!
But hey to each we have our own peace of mind procedures and thoughts about things so if makes ya feel better by all means fill that oil filter up.
 
That is always a debate on all the forums. Really the oil leaves a film that remains for months maybe years on critical bearing. When the engine starts the oil pump pulls from the sump and can fill the complete engine in less than 2-5 seconds reaching the specified oil pressure. So, IMHO to fill the oil filter before installing it is just another thing that might end a mess on your garage floor if it slips out of your hand. HA!
But hey to each we have our own peace of mind procedures and thoughts about things so if makes ya feel better by all means fill that oil filter up.
I usually put a tad bit of oil into it and swish it around. I then handle it like SWAT trying to disarm something lol.
 
Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do about it. I thought about using Amsoil 5w30 which has a Noack of 6%, but the SA level is 1.05. The lower sulphated ash oils such as Mobil 1 have a SA of .8. It was believed that a lower ash level is better to help prevent/reduce intake valve deposits. However, that has been challenged as the study that pushed that view was flawed. It's not oil mist or vapor hitting these valves, its actual oil consisting of base oil and additives.
 
Toyota has been using 10K-mile oil change interval for many years, and its engines are still considered as the most reliable among many.
Well said. After reading this I recalled my son telling me that his oil change frequency is 10,000 on his 2012 Tundra. I never conceived I would see the day of 10k oil changes. Butā€¦.might give her a go. LOL
 
Changing the viscosity to 5w-30 may not have real measurable effect on the oil consumption on Skyactiv N/A engines. Your personal Mazda if you pull the throttle body and take a flashlight and look inside you will most likely find that your oil consumption is from the PCV port and puddles around the bottom of the lower intake chamber. Project Engineers at Mazda have been working a solution to reduce some of that effect from the PCV system for future engines.
Would a ā€œcatch canā€ remedy some of this?
 
What oil brand are you using causing the level to go low?

Also, when doing an oil change do you put oil in the new filter prior to twisting it on the engine?
Been using OEM Mazda Moly oil since we bought the car in 2016.

I've been changing my own oil for over 20 years and I've never put oil in the filter before installing it. I always use the "oil change with filter" specified oil amount for all my cars, which of course makes it appear just a tiny bit above the full mark before the first time the engine is started after putting the oil in, due to some of the oil going into the filter.

I had a noticeable oil leak from the oil control valve in the valve cover last year, which I replaced last summer. Then after that I changed the oil in October, and since then I've added 1 quart. Maybe it's burning oil, who knows. I haven't seen any evidence of any leaks since changing that oil control valve.
 
What oil brand are you using causing the level to go low?

Also, when doing an oil change do you put oil in the new filter prior to twisting it on the engine?

How would the brand of oil cause the level to decrease as opposed to using another brand?

I'm with Patrick above.

I've been doing my own oil changes for more than 40 years. I've never prefilled the oil filter on any of my vehicles and I've never had a problem with this practice. The filter on the CX is installed upside down anyways, I'm sure that it fills very fast on its own.
 
Would a ā€œcatch canā€ remedy some of this?
The Cork Sport Catch Can seems to be designed very well and the location is at the sump level so you also get gravity working for you. But as I said I have been lazy and not installed it on the PCV side of the system so I can only go by what I feel is a workable quality design in a catch can.
 
ā‹Æ I always use the "oil change with filter" specified oil amount for all my cars, which of course makes it appear just a tiny bit above the full mark before the first time the engine is started after putting the oil in, due to some of the oil going into the filter.
Are you saying you put in Mazda specified 4.8 quarts for oil change on your 2014 CX-5 2.5L? If thatā€™s the case, no wonder you may need to add some oil between oil changes, as you actually need ~5.25 quarts to make the oil level reaching the Full mark of the dipstick for the oil change.

Yes, I also always use manufacture specified oil amount on oil change for every car Iā€™ve owned. And every car the oil amount specified will be exactly at the Full mark of the dipstick. Only my first Mazda, a 2016 CX-5, the specified oil amount for oil change is way short!
 
I've been doing my own oil changes for more than 40 years. I've never prefilled the oil filter on any of my vehicles and I've never had a problem with this practice. The filter on the CX is installed upside down anyways, I'm sure that it fills very fast on its own.
I have you beat by a few years on changing my own oil. Even as a teen one of my very first jobs Shell gas station they were not a coinvent store way, was working as a pump jokey "ding, ding" had to change customers oils between wiping windshields and checking air pressure in their tires.
But you have an excellent point I totally forgot because the procedure is so second nature, I don't think about it. One of my cars and several in my past ownership have a canister style oil filter and the case housing is mounted upside down. So, no prefilling the oil filter on them.
 
Are you saying you put in Mazda specified 4.8 quarts for oil change on your 2014 CX-5 2.5L? If thatā€™s the case, no wonder you may need to add some oil between oil changes, as you actually need ~5.25 quarts to make the oil level reaching the Full mark of the dipstick for the oil change.

Yes, I also always use manufacture specified oil amount on oil change for every car Iā€™ve owned. And every car the oil amount specified will be exactly at the Full mark of the dipstick. Only my first Mazda, a 2016 CX-5, the specified oil amount for oil change is way short!
I think it was a 2.0L in 2014
 
How would the brand of oil cause the level to decrease as opposed to using another brand?
I can attest from my personal experience, othe than using thicker oil (and ā€œSTPā€ oil treatment in old days), diffrtent brand of oil with same viscosity sometimes does make difference on oil consumption. I believe it could have something to do with different additives used by different manufactures.


I've been doing my own oil changes for more than 40 years. I've never prefilled the oil filter on any of my vehicles and I've never had a problem with this practice. The filter on the CX is installed upside down anyways, I'm sure that it fills very fast on its own.
Same here. I have never pre-filled the oil filter on all cars Iā€™ve owned where the oil filter is mounted vertically (GM态Ford态AMC)态 horizontally (Honda)态with some angle (VW)态or using an environmental-friendly paper cartridge (BMW).

For Mazda where the oil filter is mounted vertically, I only started to pre-fill the oil filter in last 3 oil changes on my CX-5, although I do agree with Tribe&TrueRacin and many others that pre-fill or not, it wonā€™t make any difference.

That is always a debate on all the forums. Really the oil leaves a film that remains for months maybe years on critical bearing. When the engine starts the oil pump pulls from the sump and can fill the complete engine in less than 2-5 seconds reaching the specified oil pressure. So, IMHO to fill the oil filter before installing it is just another thing that might end a mess on your garage floor if it slips out of your hand. HA!
But hey to each we have our own peace of mind procedures and thoughts about things so if makes ya feel better by all means fill that oil filter up.
 
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