Replacement options for blown 3.7L CX-9 engine?

My friend has a 2015 mazda cx-9 with a 3.7l that blew a head gasket and then developed rod knock. The mazda dealer has quoted them $10,800 to fix it which they can not afford, just wondering what year engines will work with the 2015 as I found a 2010 on ebay but the fit check says it won’t fit. Just trying to help a friend so any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
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2010 CX-9 GT
The parts catalog lists 2010-2015 as having the same engine assembly.

I would swap the water pump on a used engine before installing. It's relatively easy to do once the engine is out and cheap insurance.
 
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2010 CX-9 GT
The list price for an OEM long block assembly is over $6k alone. The labor to pull the engine and replace the water pump at dealer rates has been quoted in the $2k+ range. By the time they throw in all the gaskets, belts, and other crap required to swap the engine at full MSRP, I can see how the dealer got to the price they did. Not saying it's reasonable, but I can see how they got there.
 
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2009 Mazda CX-9 GT
The list price for an OEM long block assembly is over $6k alone. The labor to pull the engine and replace the water pump at dealer rates has been quoted in the $2k+ range. By the time they throw in all the gaskets, belts, and other crap required to swap the engine at full MSRP, I can see how the dealer got to the price they did. Not saying it's reasonable, but I can see how they got there.
Oh, I can see how they got there. Scary that they did get there too. LOL
 
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2021 CX-5T AWD CE
Unless its a warranty job, it almost never makes sense to swap out a blown engine with a new one. The costs are prohibitive. A used engine, as this poster is doing, is definitely the way to go.

- Mark
 

helbigtw

T-Rav
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PA
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08 CX-9 GT FWD
So the 2007 was brought in from Ford with the same 3.5 block as Ford variants (Ford Edge) and then 2008-2015 is a bored out 3.7L block. So the long block is the same 2008-2015. The differences in the later (more recent) models are going to be miscellaneous fittings, retainers, clips, perhaps a couple of small tubes, but the long block itself is the same. So if you were to buy a motor from a 2010 and you found something that didn't quite fit right, just transfer it over from the bad engine (like a small tube that doesnt fit a larger tube, etc). Even if the wiring harness has differences, which it might, then transfer the harness over. Just deep cleaned my 08' with 104k inside and out this weekend, checked all her fluids, good to go. No coolant drop, and just a little low on 5w20, but it has always been a little thirsty with 5w20. Uses much less when running 5w30. The motor runs so well, no noises, just a gem! clean as a whistle underneath still too. Too bad that some folks had bad luck with a few of these motors. Although I did have a spark plug cross thread lol.
 

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