Protege5: Harder, not Smarter!

After over 3 years of collecting parts, the engine is finally going back together.... Yay!











So to check piston ring gap oil your bores with your fingertip, take your ring and put the holes up, and slide it down.



Then take your piston, and push it down evenly.



















Cheers!
 
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Absolutely amazing. This is the stuff I love. Cant wait to see what you do with the front and rear suspension.

Good luck
 
Are sr20 bearings and 4age main studs an upgrade over stock ?

The studs are always an upgrade over stock :)

the sr20 rod bearings I chose because ACL makes them in their race series materials, resulting in less friction. Skyline RB25DETT rod bearings will also fit, they are the same parts just packs of 4 vs 6. They have oil grooves in the bearing surface because skylines use internally lubricated rods much like your crankshaft. Whether this will cause problems I have no real idea because the protege is splash lubricated.

So, an upgrade? Maybe...
 








Pulled her out into the driveway today, base chassis is nearly complete, I can start tacking in the braces now.
 


New coils I will be using compared to yellowspeeds, 3.5 pounds per corner for an ~80% reduction in weight over stock.



Picked up an aluminum crank pulley and a waterpump pulley.



What real fitment is, not that stance stuff....




Mazdaspeed Protege wing I'm building for someone.


























Had to sit in the mold for about 6 hours total, still needs to be built up in several area's. End weight will be Aprox 3 pounds
 
Pull-rod type suspension? If I'm thinking those are A-arms, they look sort of like what we have on our SAE car at UofM Dearborn.

If I'm completely wrong, carry on :D

Other than the alternator, will there be anything else to draw power from the battery? Power steering, A/C? Perhaps you can have a look at Brian MP5T's cooling setup to reduce load on the engine further...
 
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Pull-rod type suspension? If I'm thinking those are A-arms, they look sort of like what we have on our SAE car at UofM Dearborn.

If I'm completely wrong, carry on :D

Other than the alternator, will there be anything else to draw power from the battery? Power steering, A/C? Perhaps you can have a look at Brian MP5T's cooling setup to reduce load on the engine further...

Push rod (sorry read wrong), to the bellcranks located inboard and independent suspension all around 4 corners. No a/c, no power steering, no power brakes, no stereo (probably), electric heater/blower out of a cessna, rad fans still undecided on size and single vs twin.
 
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Sorry if I missed it, but what kind of alloy are you using for tubing?

Pull-rod type suspension? If I'm thinking those are A-arms, they look sort of like what we have on our SAE car at UofM Dearborn.

If I'm completely wrong, carry on :D

Other than the alternator, will there be anything else to draw power from the battery? Power steering, A/C? Perhaps you can have a look at Brian MP5T's cooling setup to reduce load on the engine further...

You are on a formula SAE team? If so, are you going to Michigan?
 
Sorry if I missed it, but what kind of alloy are you using for tubing?

1020 DOM Carbon Steel, I was torn over 4130 chromoly or 1020, in the end I chose 1020 as this is my first car build and I don't have the welding expertise that 4130 requires to not embrittle on the hard node welds. People always say chromoly is so much more expensive and to just use DOM, but it would have only been 90$ more for the entire chassis to go with the chromoly over the DOM. But I save alot of time by not having to heat treat the chassis and constantly worry about it cracking in daily use.
 
i found this thread looking for fuel economy mods.

this build is one of the most insane ive read in a while. ik am now going to follow just to see what happens.
 
1020 DOM Carbon Steel, I was torn over 4130 chromoly or 1020, in the end I chose 1020 as this is my first car build and I don't have the welding expertise that 4130 requires to not embrittle on the hard node welds. People always say chromoly is so much more expensive and to just use DOM, but it would have only been 90$ more for the entire chassis to go with the chromoly over the DOM. But I save alot of time by not having to heat treat the chassis and constantly worry about it cracking in daily use.

Good call, so long as you feel more comfortable with the project.

Yes. MIS this Wed through Sun. :)

Too bad I didn't catch your post earlier, would have come by and said Hi :) I was with Ryerson in case you noticed us, we didn't do too well as our car had a lot of small issues, we did relatively well in design judging though.
 
Okies, I continued shaping and sanding/smoothing/building up area's on the mold.

I primered her 5 times sanding between each coat, waxed her 10 times and pva'd.

Seat with be 2 layers of main kevlar sandwich between 3 layers of carbon tow and 2 layers of twill. Twill reinforcements on the more shapely area's of my backside and hips.

Next post I'll have it finished up in twill and clearcoated, cheers!































 
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