Protege5 (AT) Light / Check engine light both on...Help
- Thread starter DIYGUY321
- Start date
Specific codes would be best. Lots of people here willing to help but no one would suggest just throwing $$ at generalizations. Also, when was the last tune up? plugs, coils, fuel pump and filter? hows the tranny fluid look? This could narrow things down along with the codes
Was reading up on someone's thread. They mentioned cleaning the MAF & MAP SENSORS with some MAF cleaner. Says it helped the problem. Was going to try that before I spend $160 on each. It's got a rough idle and the AT was coming on the first and second day, when first started and running. It would kick hard into 2nd. Then be fine after it warmed up and the light, goes off on it's own. Check engine light still on though.
From my experience, P0106 only comes on when driving hard. If I drive my P5 like a grandpa and don't rev it out, it won't come on.
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Those look like air leak codes....like the accordion rubber intake tube is cracked or vacuum line cracked or off where it should be plugged onto. Neither of those codes speak to AT light IMO. Hard shifting might be fluid level, fluid age, valve body or filter issues or possibly torque converter issue. Start with easy stuff, pull accordion piece off and look for cracks. They can be hard to find on the car. Check all under hood vacuum lines and condition. Try to spot something out of place. Check trans fluid level and if clearish or burnt looking. If you don't know if or when fluid has been changed then change it or have it changed. Go from there..................
I have an aftermarket Injen intake, could that be causing my P0106?
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
probably not. I have the crc intake from vendor here that boxes in the filter above the cai hole instead of having filter down low behind fog light. i will get occasional 171 in winter when air is colder/ denser but when humid and warm it is fine. 106 seems more vacuum line or egr tube according to fsm shown above.
There are separate codes for the pre-cat, O2 sensors, PCR solenoid valve, and the purge solenoid valve.
I'm thinking replacing your fuel filter would be a good idea.
It's a bit of a chore to do the job but it's not too much money.
Thread 'How To Change Your Fuel Filter (lots of pics)' https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/ind...ange-your-fuel-filter-lots-of-pics.123829616/
I'm thinking replacing your fuel filter would be a good idea.
It's a bit of a chore to do the job but it's not too much money.
Thread 'How To Change Your Fuel Filter (lots of pics)' https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/ind...ange-your-fuel-filter-lots-of-pics.123829616/
Id say start with the tune up and fluid and filter for both engine and trans. Cleaning the maf and check that all the couplers are tight and not cracked. Carb cleaner sprayed around vacuum hoses will identify and leaks as the idle will change when it gets sucked in. Be wary of flushing the tranny. Especially if its never been changed as you can make the problem way worse. Just a fluid and filter change should help if not rid you of any issues.
