Plugging my oil squirters

47b7cf25b3127ccebfb2fad6256400000026108AYtGbRo1bNO

it looks so wet and sticky...kinda reminds me of.....


drools..
 
The FS motor is internally balanced. No idea why they chose it to be balanced it with the flywheel as it is usually for externally balanced motor, unless they did it by itself.

Funny how your pistons oil jet relief looks nothing like mine did. I wonder why it changed...
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=118613

Here's how you measure the balance of the pistons. Scale them with the wrist pins. This was the set of the Wiseco's straight out of the box as we verified their balance #'s. Lot better than other pistons I used on the FS.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=118614
 
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The FS motor is internally balanced. No idea why they chose it to be balanced it with the flywheel as it is usually for externally balanced motor, unless they did it by itself.

Funny how your pistons oil jet relief looks nothing like mine did. I wonder why it changed...
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=118613

Here's how you measure the balance of the pistons. Scale them with the wrist pins. This was the set of the Wiseco's straight out of the box as we verified their balance #'s. Lot better than other pistons I used on the FS.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=118614

All I know is mine work with my Arias :)
They did balance everything and this engine is beyond smooth up to the rev limit. I am happy (breakn)

+1 for great machine work (guitar)
 
The FS motor is internally balanced. No idea why they chose it to be balanced it with the flywheel as it is usually for externally balanced motor, unless they did it by itself.

Funny how your pistons oil jet relief looks nothing like mine did. I wonder why it changed...
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=118613

Here's how you measure the balance of the pistons. Scale them with the wrist pins. This was the set of the Wiseco's straight out of the box as we verified their balance #'s. Lot better than other pistons I used on the FS.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=118614
like every engine out there? they all are balanced to an extent, if it weren't for that harmonics will tear the engine to bits! the difference with having your s*** balanced and leaving it alone is tolerances... there's always going to be some variations on factory balancing because of cost/speed... getting it done OTOH means more effort could be spent on perfecting the balance

why do you think every serious engine builder out there gets their s*** blue printed and balanced? it's all these seemingly trivial things that adds power, longevity, and better high rpm tolerance to the engine
 
No s***, you misread what I was asking. If you don't balance everything to closer specs than oem you aren't a building a performance motor. Most these stock cranks have room for improvement as I have the balance sheets from my engine and a few others.

"If youre rebuilding an engine that is internally balanced, the flywheel and damper have no effect on engine balance and can be balanced separately. But with externally balanced engines, the flywheel and damper must be mounted on the crank prior to balancing."

Which is why I'm wondering which method they used with or without the damper and flywheel attached.

"Customers should be told what type of engine balance they have (internal or external), and warned about indexing the position of the flywheel if they have to remove it later for resurfacing. Owners of externally balanced engines should also be warned about installing different flywheels or harmonic dampers and how it can upset engine balance."
 
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here's a quick link I just found:

http://www.everything2.com/index.pl?node_id=1276402

short read, to the point and actually informative, so I ask this of you guys (particularly JDM_Sam, TheMan, Yashooa b/c you guys seem to know waytf more than me about rebuilds) What sort of precision should we be looking at for the FS?

Balancing Pistons: +- .5g? .1g?
Balancing Rods: +- .5g? .1g?
Balancing Crank: +- ?
Balancing, General: External balancing?
Deck Warpage (block): +- .1mm?
Deck Tolerance (head): +-.1mm?
Bore Tolerance: +-.5mm?
Head Tolerances (shims): Lower end of Workshop manual range? Upper end?
Valve balance (necessary?)
Spring Force/Balance (necessary?)
Bearing Tolerance: Lower/Upper end of Workshop manual range?

How precise is.... precise for this engine? What other things entail balancing/blueprinting that I have missed?
 
At least within 1 gram variance. .5 is even better.
Unless you are going to operate the machine just tell your machinist to get it spec'd for a performance build.

1st and 2nd ring gap depends on your setup

Piston to wall clearance depends on what the piston manufacturer recommends

The deck warpage use stock specs or just deck the block if you want but it alters the compression very slightly, same with milling the head.

You'll have to recut the journals to get it more precise since the bearings only come in 3 sizes.
Use the towards the tighter end on the oil bearing clearances. Too much bearing clearance creates problems because all the oil that's pumping in to fill the gap between the bearings lowers engine oil pressure. This excess oil is then thrown off the crank, creating windage, which robs power and generally decreases engine performance.

All the valvetrain just replace with upgraded stuff.
I set the valve clearances cold on the tighter end.

I'll be writing a builders guide to put up on www.*************.com soon for building a motor.
 
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Well, I will be doing most of the work (when I say "I", I mean that the work will be done outside of a performance shop, a bunch of friends are willing to help). I have access to some machining tools at school (I'm in the M.E. program)... lol, I'm even trying to convince the one Dr. to give me and a few others credit for co-op w/ his supervision... doesn't hurt, right?

Anyways, my baby brother is a mechanic, so tools aren't a concern. Balancing, well, I hope I know how to read a scale (after all the money I've invested in this G.D. degree). Blueprinting and balancing won't be a concern at all... as long as I know how precise each respective part should be.

Unfortunately, I can spout numbers off and solve equations all day long, but nowhere do they teach "reasonable" tolerances for any given application in school. The closest course they offer is Vibration Synthesis and Analysis and they only offer it every other year :( .

It seems like the only thing I'll have a concern with is the crank balancing. Don't know if we have any rotational analysis tools in any of the labs... probably would want a "professional" to do that one anyways.

Another thing I was wondering about was Cg for the piston heads. Do we want to offset the Cg to counteract the rotation? (meaning Cg is to the right of the wristpin, while rotating left?)

Perhaps I should start another thread. I've totally threadjacked this one. Sorry OP!

Updated:
New thread: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123693542

sorry again, MazdaSpeed626!
 
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OK, So the engine is back together and in the car....finally. As for the last oil squirter that i broke the tap off in....once it was upside down on the engine stand, i welded a bolt to the damn thing and yanked it out with a slide hammer.

Once i tapped all the holes, i used 2 different magnets to get the shavings out. Then i turned the block right side up on the stand and then blew compressed air into the oil filter outlet hole, which goes right to the oil squirter passages. So hopefully most of the shavings are out. I put locktite red on the bolts that i used to plug the holes.

I've been sick the past couple days with the flu and bronchitis soo i still have to put fluids in it. I'll prolly let it run with a crappy SAE 30w for like 20 minutes and then change it.

I'll let y'all know how it goes.
 
Soooooo, here is what has happened to my engine lately. I've got CP pistons and had been running them for a good while, melted one of them at the track on c16 and 21 lbs of boost with an unknowingly fried wideband....Much fun. After tearing the block down, turns out my pistons had broken 3 of the 4 oil squirters off....cool.

So after replacing the melted piston, i told the machinist(which is an extremely reputable shop here in town) i wanted the pistons filed down to make the oil squirters fit. He told me the reason they broke off was because they weren't positioned correctly....So i told him, fine, i'll let you assemble the entire bottom end and then you can position the oil squirters perfectly.

Well....long story short i took off my oil pan to fix a leak and found 2 broken oil squirters......that was a bad day indeed.

Needless to say i'm not putting new squirters in, so i've already removed all of the squirters(which was a huge b****) and am tapping the holes and plugging them. My question is what is the best way to clean out the shavings from the tap?

BTW, i've already pulled the engine and its on the stand, but still fully assembled minus the oil pan and sandwich plate.
Use some grease on the end of drill and tap, it helps getting the shavings out and from falling in deeper.
 
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