Oil squirter delete?

The oil pump sucks, if you're pulling the motor do it right and get the doc b oil pump, it is the only real fix you can do awr oil pan is just a band aid. Do it right the first time while its pulled apart or pull it apart again your choice. I want even take turns at high rpms due to this issue. Any other car can be a quart low and be fine, the protege can be full of oil and be starved of oil. It's a granny car not a race car
 
AWR pan did not save me, jus' sayin'

+1 on this...one of my customes MSP's spun bearings on a fully built motor complete with AWR oilpan...his particular reason was from the oil pickup spacer that was installed with it--it rubbed/vibrated on the bottom of the pan for so long, the oil pump sucked up pieces of the pickup screen...this = oil pump failure

Kept my oil squirters in my own engine build, replaced them with new ones
 
I concur with you. If I can put my 2 cents in, they are this. The problem is that both sides are right in some regards but both miss the root problem witch is VOLUME the 2.0L oil pump lacks it! It is adequate in stock or light builds. However, it cannot keep up with the higher builds witch apply far greater presser on the rods and mains, as well as higher temperatures. I do recommend the extra capacity oil pan and the doc b oil pump. The reason the oil pump helps us so much is the tighter tolerance not allowing oil to pass by the gears, stops cavitations thus increasing the volume (ever so little) we need all we can get as well as increased presser . Buy leaving the squirters in they use quite a bit of the precious little volume. Buy removing / plugging them it makes all of the oil from the oil pump go to the crank, rods, and head. If it were a presser problem, the remote pressure control would fix the problem but as we know, it only helps. What we need is a high presser / high volume pump witch has fixed this problem in hundreds of other engines. Or in a dream world a dry sump with a remote pump. The after market Forged pistons and rods can handle the heat and the pins are oiled buy the drain from the oil control rings. In stock or light builds the cast pistons need the cooling NOW let it be known I am not trying to poop in ANY ones cheerios just giving my 2 cents (all right maybe 3.5 cents lol)
 
I concur with you. If I can put my 2 cents in, they are this. The problem is that both sides are right in some regards but both miss the root problem witch is VOLUME the 2.0L oil pump lacks it! It is adequate in stock or light builds. However, it cannot keep up with the higher builds witch apply far greater presser on the rods and mains, as well as higher temperatures. I do recommend the extra capacity oil pan and the doc b oil pump. The reason the oil pump helps us so much is the tighter tolerance not allowing oil to pass by the gears, stops cavitations thus increasing the volume (ever so little) we need all we can get as well as increased presser . Buy leaving the squirters in they use quite a bit of the precious little volume. Buy removing / plugging them it makes all of the oil from the oil pump go to the crank, rods, and head. If it were a presser problem, the remote pressure control would fix the problem but as we know, it only helps. What we need is a high presser / high volume pump witch has fixed this problem in hundreds of other engines. Or in a dream world a dry sump with a remote pump. The after market Forged pistons and rods can handle the heat and the pins are oiled buy the drain from the oil control rings. In stock or light builds the cast pistons need the cooling NOW let it be known I am not trying to poop in ANY ones cheerios just giving my 2 cents (all right maybe 3.5 cents lol)
I know I know its 2021...9 years later at 3:09am BUTTT just to confirm,, If I'm doing a full engine rebuild, its recommended to get new oil squirters, an AWR oil pan AND the Doc B oil pump instead of removing the oil squirters right?

Is this the same as the Doc B oil pump?
https://*************.com/mazdaspee...page=product_info&cPath=1_2_4&products_id=485

I'm new to the MSP scene so I want to get everything right before I go ahead and pull it apart

Thanks in advance
 
Do not delete your oil squirters. They are there to cool the pistons and lubricate the wrist pins. Kind of important, especially on a turbo engine.

You can get the AWR pan or Speed circuit sells a proper baffle for the stock pan.

Your oil pump link did not work but I think you're referring to the Boundry pump. The boundry pump will fix the stock protege pumps shortcomings and bolts on like stock.

If you go the docb route.. you will need to run oil lines, remote filter and external oil pressure regulator. This can get interesting if you already have minimal engine bay space.
 
I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I was under the impression that the doc B oil pump system was a straight bolt on oil pump. I’m assuming it’s not? Do you by chance have any links to doing the doc B conversion? maybe on the forums or on a website where I can purchase it?

Again, thanks in advance
 
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