Oil question

ColoradoDriver

2014 CX-5 Touring AWD - 132k miles
Contributor
:
Denver, CO
Haven't decided yet if I'm going to give the Mazda Moly or Idemitsu oil a try since they are way more expensive.

Suppose I keep buying a 5 quart jug at Walmart, what's the difference between the regular oil and the ones that say extended mileage or high mileage, or similar? I saw some that were same brand as I've been using (Castrol Edge) but seem to be marketed toward 75k+ mile cars.
 
In my opinion the latest SN plus oils are very similar so you can go with any major brand and run it with no worries.

I have been looking at the Havoline Pro DS which is s excellent oil at a great price. The price is even better if you get the Smart Change box. Walmart sells it for $19.97 for six quarts. Chevron makes Havoline.
 
Haven't decided yet if I'm going to give the Mazda Moly or Idemitsu oil a try since they are way more expensive.

Suppose I keep buying a 5 quart jug at Walmart, what's the difference between the regular oil and the ones that say extended mileage or high mileage, or similar? I saw some that were same brand as I've been using (Castrol Edge) but seem to be marketed toward 75k+ mile cars.
I agree with Puyapim that you can go with any major brand SN/+ oils and run it with no worries.

More serious question for you is if you want to try 5W-30 oil instead watery 0W-20 oil as your engine is burning some oil. I would if I were you.

5W-30 oil is recommended by Mazda everywhere in the world but the US for CX-5 . So use it with no worries.
 
I agree with Puyapim that you can go with any major brand SN/+ oils and run it with no worries.

More serious question for you is if you want to try 5W-30 oil instead watery 0W-20 oil as your engine is burning some oil. I would if I were you.

5W-30 oil is recommended by Mazda everywhere in the world but the US for CX-5 . So use it with no worries.



I missed the part where he said his engine was burning oil.

Watery is a odd term to describe oil. You misinterpret the meaning of 0w.
 
I missed the part where he said his engine was burning oil.

Watery is a odd term to describe oil. You misinterpret the meaning of 0w.
Many people on this board have been describing 0W-20 oil, including Mazda moly, feels like water. It's the first time for me to use this thin 0W-20 oil and I use Mazda moly. It does feel like water and watery is a right term for me to describe it.
 
The main difference between the regular and high mileage oils is the add pack. The high mileage oils will usually have a slightly stronger additive package and they will also contain seal conditioners, which will cause the oil seals to swell a bit to help prevent leaks. You could use either 0w-20 or 5w-30 if you feel like it, especially now in the summer months. Nothing wrong with either of them. A lot of folks think that the only reason 0w-20 is used is to to help with fuel economy numbers, which may have some truth to it. I still use 0w-20.
 
A lot of people used to describe 5w30 as thin too.

In the end its a 20 grade oil and is sufficient. We have the choice of running whatever we want in our engines.
 
If the car is not under warranty and if I was not in Arizona, I would try 0w20 winter and 5w30 in summer.
5W30 is good choice and widely available too. Its what they use in cx5 in Europe for example.
 
Yes I have been burning oil. Trying a 7.5k interval this go around, had to add a quart around 5.5k. Which frankly just makes me want to go back down to a 5k interval.

Have been deciding if I should try 5w30 instead to see of I don't lose as much, or if I stick with 0w20 if I should try the Mazda Moly.

I think now I am leaning towards just giving the 5w30 a try.
 
Haven't decided yet if I'm going to give the Mazda Moly or Idemitsu oil a try since they are way more expensive.

Suppose I keep buying a 5 quart jug at Walmart, what's the difference between the regular oil and the ones that say extended mileage or high mileage, or similar? I saw some that were same brand as I've been using (Castrol Edge) but seem to be marketed toward 75k+ mile cars.

I buy Mobil 1 EP because it's proven in turbo GDI motors, and that's what I have. It's also pretty good with fuel dilution etc., and should do solid in your 2.5 n/a motor, as well. Further, it's easy to buy and available most places.
 
If the car is not under warranty and if I was not in Arizona, I would try 0w20 winter and 5w30 in summer.
5W30 is good choice and widely available too. Its what they use in cx5 in Europe for example.
Heres oil specs from a UK gen-2 CX-5 owners manual. We can see 5W-30 oil is recommended in many areas. Thicker oil usually will reduce oil consumption.

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My cx-5 just went out of warranty so I can see it getting a 0w-30 oil change in the future.The initial factory fill was watery in my opinion and I'm still concerned about timing chain wear later on if 0w-20 is continued.I like the idea of a 0w oil for better pumpability in real cold weather.
All engines are going to use a little oil no matter how minute.There's oil burned off the cylinder walls during combustion and oil vapors from the crankcase scavenged off thru PCV and burned after being routed to the intake manifold.I don't see being a quart down at 6-7,000 miles using a thin oil as being bad.Better a little oil usage than oil leaks.As mentioned above ,a switch to a heavier oil may improve consumption.
Even a different brand of 0w-20 seems to be thicker than mazda oil.
 
All engines are going to use a little oil no matter how minute.

I was concerned because when I added the quart, dipstick level was not much higher than the low dot. I looked up my service notes and realized I misremembered, this was closer to 6k miles on the interval that I added the quart. Not 5, or 5.5k.

Alternatively, thinking of just keeping with the 0w20 and going back to a 5k mile interval.

Edit: Here was the dipstick at 6k miles since last change (5 qts. of Castrol Edge 0w20 on 9/29).

Maybe it's always done this since I only started doing my own services last year, and only really noticed that I only drained a bit over 4 quarts last oil change (because I probably wasn't paying enough attention on the previous change to think about measuring what was drained). But this seems a bit concerning to me, hence why I am trying to figure out the best route for oil for me.

ea5f79063a86e2b53d45c464b780774f.jpg
 
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Id personally do a 5000 interval next time to see if you really have oil being consumed. If so, try a different brand or a high mileage formula on the next interval to see if consumption slows. If that doesnt do it, a higher weight would slow it. Thankfully yours isnt bad. I dont see that fouling spark plugs or anything with how slow the oil burning might be.
 
I*d personally do a 5000 interval next time to see if you really have oil being consumed. If so, try a different brand or a high mileage formula on the next interval to see if consumption slows. If that doesn*t do it, a higher weight would slow it. Thankfully yours isn*t bad. I don*t see that fouling spark plugs or anything with how slow the oil burning might be.

Will give it a shot, thanks!
 
I was concerned because when I added the quart, dipstick level was not much higher than the low dot. I looked up my service notes and realized I misremembered, this was closer to 6k miles on the interval that I added the quart. Not 5, or 5.5k.

Alternatively, thinking of just keeping with the 0w20 and going back to a 5k mile interval.

Edit: Here was the dipstick at 6k miles since last change (5 qts. of Castrol Edge 0w20 on 9/29).

Maybe it's always done this since I only started doing my own services last year, and only really noticed that I only drained a bit over 4 quarts last oil change (because I probably wasn't paying enough attention on the previous change to think about measuring what was drained). But this seems a bit concerning to me, hence why I am trying to figure out the best route for oil for me.

ea5f79063a86e2b53d45c464b780774f.jpg

Wow. Way low. My old 2.5, at around 7500mi, would be between the two dots, closer to the top one. This is with new filter, and 5 quarts, on the oil changes.
 
Wow. Way low. My old 2.5, at around 7500mi, would be between the two dots, closer to the top one. This is with new filter, and 5 quarts, on the oil changes.
Yeah, I'm going to keep tracking going forward to see what happens in my next changes.
 
I buy Mobil 1 EP because it's proven in turbo GDI motors, and that's what I have. It's also pretty good with fuel dilution etc., and should do solid in your 2.5 n/a motor, as well. Further, it's easy to buy and available most places.

That's good to know.

Due to where I live, I do zero in-town/short mile trips, but am still concerned about dilution...and carbon build-up. I know Hondas seem to be the worse, but saw a TSB that Mazda put out about dilution as well. I also read where some manufacturers are putting a High Water Mark on the dipstick..."if the oil level reaches < Here >, change it." It's pretty pathetic.

But GDI is tough to avoid these days.
 
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That's good to know.

Due to where I live, I do zero in-town/short mile trips, but am still concerned about dilution...and carbon build-up. I know Hondas seem to be the worse, but saw a TSB that Mazda put out about dilution as well. I also read where some manufacturers are putting a High Water Mark on the dipstick..."if the oil level reaches < Here >, change it." It's pretty pathetic.

But GDI is tough to avoid these days.
Mazda did exactly the same thing by replacing the oil level dipstick with a revised one featuring additional high-water X mark above the Full mark, during the time trying to resolve the oil rising issue on its SkyActiv-D CX-5 diesels. Owners have to change the oil when oil level reaches to the X mark, although this oil dilution issue is caused by DPF regeneration.

I almost feel like Mazda put higher Full mark than normal on dipstick to our 2.5L like the high-water mark hence specified 4.8-quart refill and factory oil fill can only reach to ~ below the Full mark.
 
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