Normal CX-5 engine noise? Just noticed yesterday

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2019 Cx-5 sport
Hey all, 2019 CX-5 sport with 2,300 miles on it, bought brand new 2 years ago.

Just noticed this ticking noise while driving through parking lot, and thought,
is that my CX-5 making that noise? Got home, checked yesterday and today and
the noise is still there. I don't remember this noise when I bought the vehicle, a loud ticking and rattling sound.

Will be taking it to local dealer Monday, but I've taken it for other noises over the past couple of years and both lead mechanics that I've talked to say 'they all do that' and maybe I just never noticed this noise before..?

Thanks for any info.
Joe
 

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Solution
Ok, update, went back to dealer, talked to sales lady that sold me the cx5...Told her about the ticking noise and was wondering if she'd let me listen to a new cx5 with hood up. She said no problem. She started up a 2021 sport and I had mine a few feet away...My cx5 was warmed up, the 2021 sport was a cold start.

We both thought my cx5 was a little louder, but the new 2021 ticking was coming from the same area as mine. So, guess, it's just the noisy fuel injectors like several mentioned above.

Thanks for all the help and information.
The fluid capacities in owner’s manual for Mazda CX-5 are mostly inaccurate as those are “approximate” quantities. The manual says 4.8 quarts on engine oil replacement with oil filter for 2.5L. But it actually needs 5.2 ~ 5.3 quarts to reach the Full / Max mark on dipstick. Front transfer case is correct at 0.45 quart. The rear differential requires ~0.75 quart but the manual says 0.45 / 0.37 quarts on gen-1 / gen-2 CX-5 respectively. The actual capacity of the rear differential is 66% larger than given capacity on specs!

Yes these inconsistencies on “approximate” fluid capacity by Mazda caught me by surprise too, as the CX-5 is my first Mazda and I’ve never experienced something like this from other cars I’ve owned.

Giving a range instead of a single value on torque specs in Mazda’s workshop manuals is another “different-from-everybody-else” thing bothers me.


Yes, anything is possible even if it’s as simple as an oil change by the car dealer nowadays.


5.4 ~ 5.5 quarts.


Yes, do that to verify the ticking noise by comparison.
I think your numbers to get to the MAX line on the 2.5 NA are too high. 5qts gets me right to the top marker (maybe a smidge over) on my Mazda 6
 
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I think your numbers to get to the MAX line on the 2.5 NA are too high. 5qts gets me right to the top marker (maybe a smidge over) on my Mazda 6
If you search the forum 99% say 5 quarts get them to about ⅛ ~ ¼ below the Full / Max mark of the dipstick on 2.5L. It really depends on how long you drain the old oil, and how level the CX-5 is while draining the oil. There’re plenty of oil can’t be drained out from the oil pan if the CX-5 is perfectly leveled. If you use a pair of standard ramps to make the front raised high, more oil will be drained out from the drain hole located on the back side of the oil pan.

I myself have done oil change 8 times on my 2016 CX-5 2.5L, it always needs 5.2 ~ 5.25 quarts to make the oil level reaching the Full mark. I use a pair of self-made 2-layer 2X10’s to raise the front for about 3”.

6576E55F-195B-4E56-9EEF-AFD666F9E158.jpeg
 
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The night I got my car from the dealer, the oil was at the full mark. And for my first oil change I put in 5 quarts and over time kept adding oil little by little to get to that full mark. And for me it takes 5 quarts and 425cc. My ramps raise the front of my car about 5 inches. And yes if the car is level not as much oil comes out. And if one uses a quick drain not as much oil comes out.
 
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yrwei52 .. is that pressure treated wood ? or just regular pine...

I was thinking about buying a set of ramps from amazon for $40..
for next time need to change oil...
but those wood ramps look good and 1/3 the price... ( just a bit of labor )
 
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yrwei52 .. is that pressure treated wood ? or just regular pine...

I was thinking about buying a set of ramps from amazon for $40..
for next time need to change oil...
but those wood ramps look good and 1/3 the price... ( just a bit of labor )
It’s regular pine but those 2X10’s, or all construction materials, are getting really expensive nowadays.

I use these self-made ramps not for saving money, but mainly for minimum rise to my BMW which has longitudinal mounted I6 engine and standard high ramps will affect complete oil drain.
 
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yrwei52 .. is that pressure treated wood ? or just regular pine...

I was thinking about buying a set of ramps from amazon for $40..
for next time need to change oil...
but those wood ramps look good and 1/3 the price... ( just a bit of labor )
I have some of those plastic ramps and while I like the amount of clearance I think the 2x10s might work and might be easier to drive up.

I hate it when one ramp scoots but the other side makes it up the incline.
 
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I have some of those plastic ramps and while I like the amount of clearance I think the 2x10s might work and might be easier to drive up.

I hate it when one ramp scoots but the other side makes it up the incline.
And many years ago a friend of mine used a pair of cheap but USA made K-Mart metal ramps to change the oil for his big old American GM 350 V8. Unfortunately the ramps just collapsed in front of me once the the car was driven onto the ramps! Since then I have trouble to trust those ramps, metal or plastic.
 
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Ok, update, went back to dealer, talked to sales lady that sold me the cx5...Told her about the ticking noise and was wondering if she'd let me listen to a new cx5 with hood up. She said no problem. She started up a 2021 sport and I had mine a few feet away...My cx5 was warmed up, the 2021 sport was a cold start.

We both thought my cx5 was a little louder, but the new 2021 ticking was coming from the same area as mine. So, guess, it's just the noisy fuel injectors like several mentioned above.

Thanks for all the help and information.
 
Upvote 0
Solution
Ok, update, went back to dealer, talked to sales lady that sold me the cx5...Told her about the ticking noise and was wondering if she'd let me listen to a new cx5 with hood up. She said no problem. She started up a 2021 sport and I had mine a few feet away...My cx5 was warmed up, the 2021 sport was a cold start.

We both thought my cx5 was a little louder, but the new 2021 ticking was coming from the same area as mine. So, guess, it's just the noisy fuel injectors like several mentioned above.

Thanks for all the help and information.
And thanks for the update.
 
Upvote 0
If you search the forum 99% say 5 quarts get them to about ⅛ ~ ¼ below the Full / Max mark of the dipstick on 2.5L. It really depends on how long you drain the old oil, and how level the CX-5 is while draining the oil. There’re plenty of oil can’t be drained out from the oil pan if the CX-5 is perfectly leveled. If you use a pair of standard ramps to make the front raised high, more oil will be drained out from the drain hole located on the back side of the oil pan.

I myself have done oil change 8 times on my 2016 CX-5 2.5L, it always needs 5.2 ~ 5.25 quarts to make the oil level reaching the Full mark. I use a pair of self-made 2-layer 2X10’s to raise the front for about 3”.

View attachment 297104
Like the diy ramp idea.

Was confused til saw this thread / post.

Dealership CPO inspection paperwork says 5 qts oil put in prior to sale. Oil level was slightly over the full mark.

However when I changed oil, it took all 5 quarts to go just 1/8 inch above the minimum mark. Had to add extra and still puzzled that the manual says 4.8 quarts when it took about approx. 5.2 quarts.

If the math is that off, makes you wonder what else is off and how off the engine tolerances might be.

The engine/ fuel injection ticking still sounds really loud.
Going to test drive a new CX5 to compare & listen to engine.
The old VW owned injectors never sounded this loud.

Sent sample to Blackstone. Waiting for results.

Plan to take in for warranty service before February CPO bumper to bumper expires.
 
Upvote 0
Like the diy ramp idea.

Was confused til saw this thread / post.

Dealership CPO inspection paperwork says 5 qts oil put in prior to sale. Oil level was slightly over the full mark.

However when I changed oil, it took all 5 quarts to go just 1/8 inch above the minimum mark. Had to add extra and still puzzled that the manual says 4.8 quarts when it took about approx. 5.2 quarts.

If the math is that off, makes you wonder what else is off and how off the engine tolerances might be.

The engine/ fuel injection ticking still sounds really loud.
Going to test drive a new CX5 to compare & listen to engine.
The old VW owned injectors never sounded this loud.

Sent sample to Blackstone. Waiting for results.

Plan to take in for warranty service before February CPO bumper to bumper expires.
That makes no sense. From the MIN to MAX marks is 1qt (actually L). My Mazda6 has the same 2.5L that also calls for 4.8qts in the manual, and a 5 qt jug puts it 1/8" above the MAX mark on the dipstick. If you were starting 1/8" above MIN after 5qts, adding 0.2 qts (about 6oz) wouldn't have put you anywhere near the MAX marker
 
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That makes no sense. From the MIN to MAX marks is 1qt (actually L). My Mazda6 has the same 2.5L that also calls for 4.8qts in the manual, and a 5 qt jug puts it 1/8" above the MAX mark on the dipstick. If you were starting 1/8" above MIN after 5qts, adding 0.2 qts (about 6oz) wouldn't have put you anywhere near the MAX marker
Updated :

Well then somethings wrong. I didn't get a tape out and measure it exactly... it might have been 1/4 inch but it definitely was no-where near the full mark & I'm guessing I put about 5.2 quarts in but it might have been 5.4 .

but the engine definitely takes more than 5 quarts. I filled the filter, and let the jug drain upside down while eating dinner...and it took every last drop and still didn't reach the full mark. Unless Castrol is cheating the consumer of oil (The jug was sealed). or the engine is way frigged up.

I don't know how you could have filled it above full with just 5 quarts unless everything didn't drain.

Never had this problem with a Ford. it always took the exact amount of oil that was in the manual.

Next oil change, I'll measure everything as something tells me I'll need it for the warranty.

As an aside, I did warm the car up and let it drain for an almost an hour while I went to Advance and then Napa to find /get a wrench to fit that small filter.

Update: trying to figure out the oil levels...per a Mazda 6 forum it appears the Mazda dipsticks difference between the min and max marks may be 1/2 quart. Not sure but will have to measure this next oil change.
 
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My Mazda6 has the same 2.5L that also calls for 4.8qts in the manual, and a 5 qt jug puts it 1/8" above the MAX mark on the dipstick.
There’s no way you put in 5 quarts in your 2.5L and the oil level is ⅛” ABOVE the full mark of the dipstick, UNLESS the 2.5L in your Mazda6 uses smaller oil pan due to space issue; or you use Fumoto drain valve which can’t drain the oil completely.

The 4.8 quarts stated in CX-5 owner’s manual for the 2.5L oil capacity simply is inaccurate. The same inaccurate fluid capacities happen to the 2.0L and rear differential.
 
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Updated :

Well then somethings wrong. I didn't get a tape out and measure it exactly... it might have been 1/4 inch but it definitely was no-where near the full mark & I'm guessing I put about 5.2 quarts in but it might have been 5.4 .
Yes, you’re correct.


but the engine definitely takes more than 5 quarts. I filled the filter, and let the jug drain upside down while eating dinner...and it took every last drop and still didn't reach the full mark. Unless Castrol is cheating the consumer of oil (The jug was sealed). or the engine is way frigged up.
Yes, yes!


I don't know how you could have filled it above full with just 5 quarts unless everything didn't drain.
Me either. Unless ⋯ See possible scenario in my previous post.


Never had this problem with a Ford. it always took the exact amount of oil that was in the manual.
I have the exact experience like you. Mazda is the first vehicle I have owned where the specs on fluid capacities are inaccurate and inconsistent, although some would have argued that fluid capacities in owner’s manual for Mazda CX-5 are “approximate” quantities as stated.

The manual says 4.8 quarts on engine oil replacement with oil filter for 2.5L. But it actually needs 5.25 quarts to reach the Full / Max mark on dipstick. For 2.0L it says 4.4 quarts but it needs 4.8 quarts. Front transfer case is correct at 0.45 quart. The rear differential requires ~0.75 quart but the manual says 0.45 / 0.37 quarts on gen-1 / gen-2 CX-5 respectively.

I can’t agree with those inconsistencies as “approximate” quantities. The actual capacity of the rear differential is 66% larger than given capacity on specs, and in Mazda’s standard it’s “approximate” quantity?


Update: trying to figure out the oil levels...per a Mazda 6 forum it appears the Mazda dipsticks difference between the min and max marks may be 1/2 quart. Not sure but will have to measure this next oil change.
The CX-5 owner’s manual does say it requires 1L (1.057 quarts) to bring the oil level up from Min/Add to Max/Full mark on the dipstick.
 
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Updated :

Well then somethings wrong. I didn't get a tape out and measure it exactly... it might have been 1/4 inch but it definitely was no-where near the full mark & I'm guessing I put about 5.2 quarts in but it might have been 5.4 .

but the engine definitely takes more than 5 quarts. I filled the filter, and let the jug drain upside down while eating dinner...and it took every last drop and still didn't reach the full mark. Unless Castrol is cheating the consumer of oil (The jug was sealed). or the engine is way frigged up.

I don't know how you could have filled it above full with just 5 quarts unless everything didn't drain.

Never had this problem with a Ford. it always took the exact amount of oil that was in the manual.

Next oil change, I'll measure everything as something tells me I'll need it for the warranty.

As an aside, I did warm the car up and let it drain for an almost an hour while I went to Advance and then Napa to find /get a wrench to fit that small filter.

Update: trying to figure out the oil levels...per a Mazda 6 forum it appears the Mazda dipsticks difference between the min and max marks may be 1/2 quart. Not sure but will have to measure this next oil change.

This is a "well-discussed" issue here. As others have stated, the listed capacity for the engine oil is an approximation. It says that in the manual. It also says that the engine oil level is normal if it is between the MIN and MAX marks on the dipstick. This goes hand in hand with the listed capacity being an approximation - some want the oil level right at the MAX mark, others are fine with the oil level in the normal range (which may be up to 1L less than the MAX mark).

Additionally, engine oil change procedure can vary among those who do the oil changes. For example, you let the oil drain out of the engine for an hour. Some let the oil drain overnight. I let the oil drain for maybe 10-15 mins max. As mentioned, use of a Fumoto oil drain valve can also make a difference. Mazda doesn't specify how long you should let the oil drain for, so IMO, the use of an approximation makes sense here because of variables like these.

I wouldn't say that the engine oil level capacity as stated in the manual is wrong, or inaccurate. It is simply an approximation. If you DIY, the most important thing is to be consistent with your procedure and keep track of how much oil you need to reach the oil level you're comfortable with.


Anyway, it sounds like the OP's issue was just normal fuel injector noise. Has anyone with a 2.5 NA tried using 5W-30 oil instead of 0W-20 to see if that makes any difference in noise levels?
 
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If the math is that off, makes you wonder what else is off and how off the engine tolerances might be.mmm
I have exactly the same thought on this “approximate” quantity on fluid capacity issue from Mazda when I was changing the oil for the first time on my CX-5.

Another issue I encountered from Mazda is they use a range for all torque value in the manual instead a single value used by everybody else. To me, this’s just the Mazda way trying too hard to be different from everybody else.


The engine/ fuel injection ticking still sounds really loud.
Going to test drive a new CX5 to compare & listen to engine.
The old VW owned injectors never sounded this loud.
Does your 2.5L have cylinder deactivation (2018 CX-5 or newer)? If you do, your ticking noise could be the valve tapping noise caused by failing switchable hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) used by CD. There’re several TSBs been issues for this problem.

2018 CX-5 GT Ticking

CX-5 engine rattle
 
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I have exactly the same thought on this “approximate” quantity on fluid capacity issue from Mazda when I was changing the oil for the first time on my CX-5.

Another issue I encountered from Mazda is they use a range for all torque value in the manual instead a single value used by everybody else. To me, this’s just the Mazda way trying too hard to be different from everybody else.



Does your 2.5L have cylinder deactivation (2018 CX-5 or newer)? If you do, your ticking noise could be the valve tapping noise caused by failing switchable hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) used by CD. There’re several TSBs been issues for this problem.

2018 CX-5 GT Ticking

CX-5 engine rattle
Thanks yrwei.

going to have dealer check this out.
 
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This is a "well-discussed" issue here. As others have stated, the listed capacity for the engine oil is an approximation. It says that in the manual. It also says that the engine oil level is normal if it is between the MIN and MAX marks on the dipstick. This goes hand in hand with the listed capacity being an approximation - some want the oil level right at the MAX mark, others are fine with the oil level in the normal range (which may be up to 1L less than the MAX mark).

Additionally, engine oil change procedure can vary among those who do the oil changes. For example, you let the oil drain out of the engine for an hour. Some let the oil drain overnight. I let the oil drain for maybe 10-15 mins max. As mentioned, use of a Fumoto oil drain valve can also make a difference. Mazda doesn't specify how long you should let the oil drain for, so IMO, the use of an approximation makes sense here because of variables like these.

I wouldn't say that the engine oil level capacity as stated in the manual is wrong, or inaccurate. It is simply an approximation. If you DIY, the most important thing is to be consistent with your procedure and keep track of how much oil you need to reach the oil level you're comfortable with.


Anyway, it sounds like the OP's issue was just normal fuel injector noise. Has anyone with a 2.5 NA tried using 5W-30 oil instead of 0W-20 to see if that makes any difference in noise levels?
So why this’s a "well-discussed" issue? Because each time a new comer who want to DIY and get confused by these capacity specs from Mazda. Everybody else when they put an oil capacity for oil change, you use the said amount, and the oil level is right at the Full mark of the dipstick. But for Mazda, there’re too many ifs and buts, just can’t give you an accurate amount on these fluid capacities. Just ask is there any DIYers who is willing put in the said amount 4.8 quarts in his / her 2.5L for oil change?

The 66% variant on rear differential capacity is the best “approximate” amount Mazda can provide? That’s a joke!

Not to mention if one DIYer wants to change the gear lube in front transfer case and rear differential on the CX-5, thinking of getting one bottle of very expensive SG1 is enough based on the specs, then just found out he needed a second bottle and got stuck.
 
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There’s no way you put in 5 quarts in your 2.5L and the oil level is ⅛” ABOVE the full mark of the dipstick, UNLESS the 2.5L in your Mazda6 uses smaller oil pan due to space issue; or you use Fumoto drain valve which can’t drain the oil completely.

The 4.8 quarts stated in CX-5 owner’s manual for the 2.5L oil capacity simply is inaccurate. The same inaccurate fluid capacities happen to the 2.0L and rear differential.
I just went out and checked and it's more like 1/4" over the full line. I work at a dealer and was standing right there when the tech raised the 6 up on the lift, drained the oil (I even took a sample to get tested), and refilled from the Idemitsu 5qt jug I supplied. I wonder if maybe gas is getting into the oil and raising the level? It does smell a bit like gas
 
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