NewP5 Owner. Saying Hello!

Hello everyone!

Just recently purchased a 2k3 ST Protege 5 with about 196k on it. (New Clutch at 140k and timing belt was replaced at 120k) It has seen better days and will require some repairs to improve ride quality. Mainly purchased this car as a way to teach the Mrs. how to drive a standard transmission and I always wanted one when I was a teenager- win win for everyone.

This will give me something to do while sheltering in place.

Any tips, advice and other Protege5 related information is appreciated

Will be researching past threads on repairs. So far what this car needs..

New Solenoid,
One of the Side Skirts is missing
A little rust on the A pillar
Wind Noise coming from the front windshield,
One of the fog lights doesn't work (other is cracked)
Dents + scuff
New Tires
Rims needs to be de-rust
I'm sure I'll find more things to do as time goes on.

A good cleaning.
 
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Gidday! The blue is such a nice colour on these cars!

Looks likes yours is the very late model with the leather interior and different taillights, score!

The best part about these cars is that parts are fairly cheap and readily available so it shouldn't be too hard to find the parts you need.

Good luck and don't be afraid to post any questions!
 
Your wife might find this thread helpful.


 
The best part about these cars is that parts are fairly cheap and readily available so it shouldn't be too hard to find the parts you need.

A wrecker (even an online wrecker) can be your best bet for things like the side skirt.

(I believe that there are two colors of blue available, in case you don't want to paint it.)


As far as tires go, if you're intending to keep it stock, 205/50 R 16's fit fine with no issues.
There are a lot more choices and prices in that size.

(They are a tiny bit bigger and your speedometer will under-read by about 3%)


Another thing to note is that the screws on our car are not Phillips, they are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard).
A Phillips screwdriver will strip the screw heads if they are tight. (like if you take apart your IAC to clean it.)



You might want to consider replacing your fuel filter.


 
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Thanks!

I want to keep everything as stock as possible so I can get the most life out of the car.

Yes, if I can avoid painting I would. There is a p5 at my local pick n pull so I might take a trip and see what I can salvage
 
Keep a close eye on your oil level.

Our FS engine likes to burn oil if it hasn't been properly maintained.

I'd suggest a Seafoam treatment (or similar) to flush any sludge out of your engine.

You can prevent oil burning but it's really hard to try to fix once it's started. (it could mean a rebuild or new engine.)

Our oil rings get seized causing oil burning.







 
... It has seen better days and will require some repairs to improve ride quality.

If you are considering new struts to improve ride quality, I'd suggest quick struts.
They come complete with new coils and are way easier to replace.
No special tools required.

Your springs may be original and sagging after 20 years.

They aren't too much money.



 
Depending on where you are located, I've got a non-running black P5 in rough condition and a ton of parts to pick from from my recent MSP5 conversion. PM me if you have any specific parts you're looking for.
 
We are on opposite sides of the country unfortunately. Hello from California! I plan to take a trip to my local pick n pull after changing out all the fluids. will keep you guys updated!
 
Question of great P5 Owners.

Part of my weekend (hopefully this weekend) will be dedicated to changing out all fluids.

is there a particular brand the the p5 tends to like? Otherwise I have had good experiences with Mobile1 brand (although Kirkland motor oil is a great bang for the buck)
 
I've always used mobile 1 for my P5. More recently I have used Redline for the gearbox, but on the manual that's a very rare fluid change. Be sure to use brand new brake/clutch fluid if you flush that (which I would recommend unless it's been done recently).

Also a notable simple upgrade are the stainless brake and clutch lines from stoptech. They are simple to install and if you're flushing the brakes, it's the best time to do it.
 
...Our oil rings get seized causing oil burning.

Not exactly an engine specific problem. Happens on all vehicles and the cause is most often infrequent oil changes.

Also, on a high mileage, uncared for engine, to do a flush can be a double edge sword; it might clean some of the sludge but can also move it from where it was harmlessly hanging around to clog an oil passage. I've seen engines spin bearings following a flush. Of course, YMMV.
 
This is a thread from the guy that figured out the problem.
Our engine seems excessively bad for oil burning.
It seems like half of us here are burning oil.
Some are burning a quart every 150 miles.

At that point I think it's worth the risk to try and flush the engine and free up the oil rings.

 
Updates: Bought a new set of tires.
Washed and clay bar the hood Will try to finish the roof and then apply a healthy amount of Nu-Finish Car polish when everything is done

Questions:
I went to my local Mazda dealership asking for Air Filters and an Oil Filter. and just any fluids they have for the car.

They gave me a Mazda Air Filter "B595-13-z40-9u and I don't think it's the right one.

It fits the spot just fine but it's way to thick for the cover the close. Just want to confirm my suspicion is correct.

I should've checked when I was there. They gave me Automatic Transmission Fluid when I have the MT. Dumb question but- is it the same oil for both automatic and standard?

Lastly- I'm curious to see what can be done to repair/refresh these rims. Not sure if that's possible but wanted to check in with you guys. All 4 wheels are like this.

Thank you for your help everyone!
 

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New tires are always a great thing :)

Dealerships can be hit or miss, AT and MT oils are very different beasts so I wouldn't use the AT fluid unless you get 100% confirmation it'll work

ChrisFix has a great video about repairing and repainting wheels!

 
One other thing to keep in mind is to not overfill your gas tank.

When the pump handle shuts off, don't put more than about 25¢ worth in.

Liquid gas tends to run backward down the vent line causing all kinds of problems and codes.
 
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