NewP5 Owner. Saying Hello!

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I'd suggest a Seafoam treatment (or similar) to flush any sludge out of your engine.

You can prevent oil burning but it's really hard to try to fix once it's started. (it could mean a rebuild or new engine.)
If you don't want to risk an engine flush treatment, then at least change your oil every 3000 miles.

It's the best way to prevent seized oil rings.
 
:
2003 Mazda Protege5
I'm with pcb, I would highly recommend an engine flush. Especially if you're getting gas in your oil. Save those bearings! An engine flush has been added to the list of to-do for any used car I buy. Your engine had already made it longer than mine, but I still think it couldn't hurt.
 
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pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I'm with pcb, I would highly recommend an engine flush. Especially if you're getting gas in your oil. Save those bearings! An engine flush has been added to the list of to-do for any used car I buy. Your engine had already made it longer than mine, but I still think it couldn't hurt.
Maybe just a 1/3 of the recommended dose at a time so you're less inclined to release a big ole blood clot and give your car a stroke or heart attack.

Dissolve the sludge slowly.
 
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OK Guys. Very much in the process of swapping out all the fluids out of this car. Looks like the last servicing was done back in 2017 and based on the motor oil, I suspect that maintenance wasn't done since then.

So Far I did an oil change, coolant flush, brake fluid flush, power steering fluid change, and now I'm thinking about transmission fluid differential fluid/oil change.

Which leads to my question: Is it wise to swap out the Transmission Fluid (is there a difference between ST and AT fluids) at this point? My concern is if it's the dirty oil that's holding the transmission together,swapping it out with fresh ones will make the trans slip.

It is very possible that I'm confusing AT issues which doesn't apply to ST cars like this P5.

Thank you again for your sage advice.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Yeah, go ahead and change your gear oil.

Reusing old oil and having problems with new oil is an automatic transmission issue.

Make sure you've got gear oil for a MT.

 
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pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Some guys use Redline gear oil and swear by it.

If you have really cold winters, you may want to go with synchromesh oil to help stop grinding of the gears.
 

323

lolmsp lolms3
Moderator
I liked the Redline MT90 I used years ago. Though I can't say the Pennzoil Synchromesh is any worse in my shifting experience. Went with the latter the last time because I didn't have to order and wait for it.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I liked the Redline MT90 I used years ago. Though I can't say the Pennzoil Synchromesh is any worse in my shifting experience.
I only had issues in the winter when it was well below freezing out.

I would grind every gear for about 20 minutes until my transmission warmed up.
 

323

lolmsp lolms3
Moderator
I only had issues in the winter when it was well below freezing out.

I would grind every gear for about 20 minutes until my transmission warmed up.
Yeah you live in a place with a far colder climate than me lol. Feel like our coldest mornings are in the 20's. Cold nights, shoot I'm just at home and not going anywhere.
 
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pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Yeah, go ahead and change your gear oil.

Reusing old oil and having problems with new oil is an automatic transmission issue.

Make sure you've got gear oil for a MT.

If you haven't changed your gear oil yet, it's a good idea to remove the filler cap first, then remove the drain plug.

If you remove the drain bolt first then can't get the filler cap off, you've got a big problem.
 
I am waiting for the oil to come into the mail before starting on this. Got a 25 inch braker bar which hopefully should do the trick
 
I have been spraying pb buster at this bolt the past few days in anticipation to remove the bolt, also got myself a 25inch breaker bar since it looks like this was never been removed. Lets see if i can yank this off over the weekend without killing myself.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I have been spraying pb buster at this bolt thr past few days in anticipation to remove the bolt, also got myself a 25inch bar breaker since it looks like this was never been removed. Lets see if i can yank this off over the weekend without killing myself.
You should be fine.
Both of mine came off easily.
There's even oil at the backside of both of them that can help the threads stay clean of corrosion.


Make sure you tighten them back up properly.
A torque wrench is best.

If they're too loose, they might rattle-free and fall out.
If they're too tight, you could strip the threads or snap the head off the bolt.

Keep in mind that a 25" breaker bar gives you super-human strength. Lol
 
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