Need Stiffer Rear Coils

@AnthonyVerde

did you have rubbing issues in the front with the 16" wheels and the 65 height A/T tires BEFORE you added the strut-spacers up front??

Thanks!

I added the spacers before installing the tires — I imagine there would be some rubbing at stock height as I get slight rubbing (at full lock) with the spacers.
 
I added the spacers before installing the tires — I imagine there would be some rubbing at stock height as I get slight rubbing (at full lock) with the spacers.

How tall are your spacers? ie 1" ? 2" ? etc..

ps got one side on.. not compressed the CX7 spring appears to be closer to 1" taller... I cannot tell 'stiffness difference' just by looking/pushing on them...

springs.jpg
 
@AnthonyVerde

- done
- looks like a cat in heat / my wife the night I met her in the club (LOL!)
- but of course I fully expect the springs to settle
- definitely don't have negative camber now lol..
- haven't driven it yet, so we'll see how the settle affects the camber

springs2.jpg
springs3.jpg
springs4.jpg
 
Last edited:
Didn't notice any difference in the rear after the springs other than everything sitting a bit higher — probably a good 2 inches. And yeah, just a direct spring swap using existing Mazda5 mounts. I eventually upgraded the rear shocks to KYB gas-a-just (for Mazda5) just because the stock ones finally let go. Feels much better now. I bought the 30mm front spacers off eBay (some seller in Russia). They sit on top of the strut — pretty easy install.

And thanks regarding the center caps! Yeah, they're Ford/Mazda — specifically from the B-series pickup. Had to drill and tap some holes in the wheels to screw them in as they don't snap to the hub in any way. Pretty happy with them as I don't have money right now for some decent alloy wheels.

30mm... got it! thanks!
 
30mm... got it! thanks!
@AnthonyVerde

- done
- looks like a cat in heat / my wife the night I met her in the club (LOL!)
- but of course I fully expect the springs to settle
- definitely don't have negative camber now lol..
- haven't driven it yet, so we'll see how the settle affects the camber

View attachment 299726View attachment 299727View attachment 299728
Hahah, love it!

After I did my rear springs, my wife said our 5 looked like those accessible wheel chair vans.

Did you release the e-brake after lowering the van down in that picture? The springs will settle over time for sure, but the strut spacers up front will help reduce the raked look, too.
 
This is why I’m happy I found those lowering springs on sale. Didn’t want that super bumped look in the back.
 
Bump to the old thread.
2008 Mazda 5, I notice that the rear coils sometimes max out on dips.
I also hear some noise from behind, I think that are the trailing arms bushings, this car is old.

Would it be better to just replace coils with new OEM coils and do the bushings at the same time?
Or would it be better to install the H&R coils mentioned previously?
 
Bump to the old thread.
2008 Mazda 5, I notice that the rear coils sometimes max out on dips.
I also hear some noise from behind, I think that are the trailing arms bushings, this car is old.

Would it be better to just replace coils with new OEM coils and do the bushings at the same time?
Or would it be better to install the H&R coils mentioned previously?

We ended up junking the M5 for $200... the tire-eating rear camber issue was never solved... we went with a Lexus GX460 and a Toyota Sienna
 
On my previous '06 MZ5, both rear coils had rusted enough so that the lower coil actually broke off and was in multiple pieces trapped in the rear lower spring bushing. That definitely was noticeable in the rear ride height, and big bumps with the bike rack or other things would cause it to hit the bump stops pretty easily. I'd suggest just getting some new springs, the rubber mounts (since these degrade and compress over time too). Additionally, I like to slide a length of fuel injection hose around the top and bottom coils with grease on the inside to help prevent future rust and to add just a touch more ride height (essentially the compressed thickness of the hose on top and bottom) without affecting the spring rate itself. I just recently did this on my '12 MZ5 when replacing the shocks since there was a little bit of corrosion on the springs. It can make them a little bit of a tight fit in the lower mounts, but you can still get it all back together.
 
Bump to the old thread.
2008 Mazda 5, I notice that the rear coils sometimes max out on dips.
I also hear some noise from behind, I think that are the trailing arms bushings, this car is old.

Would it be better to just replace coils with new OEM coils and do the bushings at the same time?
Or would it be better to install the H&R coils mentioned previously?

Take a look at the OE coils and see what their condition is. If they aren’t rusted/broken as mentioned by topFC3Sman noted then the springs themselves are likely fine. I’m still happy with the lowering springs, but outside of a sale I might opt to just do inflatable helper bags inside the springs to help keep them from bottoming out.
 
Back