Malfunction Codes after Battery Replacement? 2016 CX-5

Alright folks, some good news. I paid 140 to have it fixed at the dealer and got a somewhat breakdown on how to fix it. First bit of good news you did nothing wrong aside from possibly having the ignition cycle on and off within 20 seconds of the battery, a low battery, or an ignition cycle without the room fuse installed. So this results in DTCs that cannot be cleared from memory.

So the to perform a reset,
Remove the room fuse
Changing the miles to kilometers and the Temperature Celsius to farenheit.
Then holding the trip button for 5 seconds
reinstalling the room fuse and then clearing the DTCS with what I am assuming is a OBD scanner.
(Disclaimer: This is what the tech wrote in the summary, I have no idea if this is the whole process. Honestly do this at your own risk.)

I hope this helps someone. I was freaking out thinking I broke a confuser(Computer).
 
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According to the Owners manual, it protects the overhead light in the car. Insane to me that it is apart of a process to reset the car in some fashion. I wrote to Mazda corporate how ridiculous it is that I may have to go to a dealership next time I want to change my darn battery.
 
I'm glad I read this while I still have my OEM battery. I think I'll rig a battery saver.
 
Don*t keep pressing the TPMS button or it will lock you out and only the dealer can reset it. It will initialise after a period of running. You only get two presses before lockout.

The EPB can lose its memory after battery replacement. Put it into maintenance mode then reset it.

There is a number of procedures to follow after battery replacement but I haven*t got time to post them now.
Please post official Mazda procedure for battery replacement if you have time.

I replaced the battery without a memory saver, and I had no issues at all other than opened and closed the driver side power window for a reset. I do have revised rear disk calipers installed by the TSB.
 
First bit of good news you did nothing wrong aside from possibly having the ignition cycle on and off within 20 seconds of the battery, a low battery, or an ignition cycle without the room fuse installed. So this results in DTCs that cannot be cleared from memory.
So does this mean that NOT removing the Room Fuse would prevent your situation from happening?
 
Alright folks, some good news. I paid 140 to have it fixed at the dealer and got a somewhat breakdown on how to fix it. First bit of good news you did nothing wrong aside from possibly having the ignition cycle on and off within 20 seconds of the battery, a low battery, or an ignition cycle without the room fuse installed. So this results in DTCs that cannot be cleared from memory.

So the to perform a reset,
Remove the room fuse
Changing the miles to kilometers and the Temperature Celsius to farenheit.
Then holding the trip button for 5 seconds
reinstalling the room fuse and then clearing the DTCS with what I am assuming is a OBD scanner.
(Disclaimer: This is what the tech wrote in the summary, I have no idea if this is the whole process. Honestly do this at your own risk.)

I hope this helps someone. I was freaking out thinking I broke a confuser(Computer).
Finally had a chance to give this a shot. Unfortunately no dice. When you pull the room fuse it kills the radio/display so you can't change the miles to kilometers and the temperature Celsius to Fahrenheit. I did try this in different ways like changing them first and then pulling the room fuse and clearing the codes, but to no avail. The home solution search continues...

Regardless, thanks to VobraZero
 
Finally had a chance to give this a shot. Unfortunately no dice. When you pull the room fuse it kills the radio/display so you can't change the miles to kilometers and the temperature Celsius to Fahrenheit. I did try this in different ways like changing them first and then pulling the room fuse and clearing the codes, but to no avail. The home solution search continues...

Regardless, thanks to VobraZero
I'm sorry to hear that man, that is what my technician wrote. I best you could do is insist that you know what it is and have them simply reset it and charge you no diagnostic fee. I had a feeling it has some things exempted from it. Honestly it should be in the damn owners manual on how to change the battery. From what I gathered turning the car on too soon after putting the new battery in doesn't let the car reset properly.
@concept I really have no clue to be honest, I wouldn't wanna speculate on angry pixies and confusers. (Electrics and computers) I wish Mazda would just give us a definite answer.
 
No worries man...I may give it a few more tries in different orders. If I have any luck I'll be sure to report it. I doubt that the 3 (you, me, the OP) will be the last to have this issue. About the time when 2016 owners start replacing their batteries...
 
I had Sams replace the battery in my early 2016, no problems. I do not think they used a minder...
 
My 2014 3 with the ultra capacitor has a "special" deep-cycle battery that has a terminal block (if I recall correctly) mounted to it and costs >$500 to have replaced at the dealership. Owner's manuals will almost never tell the owner how to correctly replace a battery. I think there is too much of a liability risk. It's like telling you how to change your manual transmission fluid and having to get under your car - too much risk for the manufacturer.
 
My 2014 3 with the ultra capacitor has a "special" deep-cycle battery that has a terminal block (if I recall correctly) mounted to it and costs >$500 to have replaced at the dealership. Owner's manuals will almost never tell the owner how to correctly replace a battery. I think there is too much of a liability risk. It's like telling you how to change your manual transmission fluid and having to get under your car - too much risk for the manufacturer.
Yours must be an AGM battery and you can find an after-market AGM battery for much cheaper price nowadays.

BTW, the second time I swapped the battery on my CX-5 yesterday, still nothing went wrong, and no malfunction code after battery replacement. The only thing lost is the value on trip odometers, and I did the easy driver side power window reset as instructed by the owner’s manual.

Edit: Sorry, Mazda vehicles with i-ELOOP and/or i-stop do not have AGM battery but just a special flooded Panasonic battery from factory. The Mazda OEM replacement Q85 battery for those with i-ELOOP in the US and i-stop in other regions is a standard flooded battery.

AGM battery

Many say installing a new Q85 battery requires re-programming by the Mazda dealer.
 
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Yours must be an AGM battery and you can find an after-market AGM battery for much cheaper price nowadays.

BTW, the second time I swapped the battery on my CX-5 yesterday, still nothing went wrong, and no malfunction code after battery replacement. The only thing lost is the value on trip odometers, and I did the easy driver side power window reset as instructed by the owner’s manual.

I checked the internet for quite a while and could not find more than one person's story about successfully replacing the OEM battery with a deep cycle AGM, like a Yellow top. Hopefully when it is due to be replaced again (in another 3 or 4 years), there will be more successful home-replacement stories out there. Then I'll do it, myself.
 
Finally had a chance to give this a shot. Unfortunately no dice. When you pull the room fuse it kills the radio/display so you can't change the miles to kilometers and the temperature Celsius to Fahrenheit. I did try this in different ways like changing them first and then pulling the room fuse and clearing the codes, but to no avail. The home solution search continues...

Regardless, thanks to VobraZero
Literally had the same issues today after changing my battery. Even the service guy at the dealer thought it was odd. Turns out the problem is a bad instrument cluster and yes it’s an expensive fix 😣
 
Literally had the same issues today after changing my battery. Even the service guy at the dealer thought it was odd. Turns out the problem is a bad instrument cluster and yes it’s an expensive fix 😣
same with me, it was the instrument cluster, to the tune of $600 US. Sounds like it should a a known issue at Mazda, but I'm sure they won't make good on the repair. Oh well, my next car definitely won't be a Mazda.
 
same with me, it was the instrument cluster, to the tune of $600 US. Sounds like it should a a known issue at Mazda, but I'm sure they won't make good on the repair. Oh well, my next car definitely won't be a Mazda.
Yeah that sounds about right for the part. Reading the whole thread it does concern me how some things seem unnecessarily complicated. I don’t know how much of it has to do with the increasing computerized parts and how much it has to do with others things.
 
Literally had the same issues today after changing my battery. Even the service guy at the dealer thought it was odd. Turns out the problem is a bad instrument cluster and yes it’s an expensive fix 😣
Thanks for the report! Did you change the battery by yourself or the dealer did it? Have you figured it out or told by the dealer that how to prevent this happening when we’re changing the battery?
 
same with me, it was the instrument cluster, to the tune of $600 US. Sounds like it should a a known issue at Mazda, but I'm sure they won't make good on the repair. Oh well, my next car definitely won't be a Mazda.
Thanks for the update of your resolution since you originally posted the problem back to August 2019. Same question, have you figured out or told by the dealer that how to prevent this expensive repair happening while we’re changing the battery by ourself? Or is it just a coincident that instrument cluster somehow was damaged while you’re changing the battery?
 
Thanks for the report! Did you change the battery by yourself or the dealer did it? Have you figured it out or told by the dealer that how to prevent this happening when we’re changing the battery?
Honestly I went to autozone and they changed it. I didn’t think that would be an issue and i was on my way to work. After the lights came on I called Mazda. At first they too thought the computer just needed to be cleared out because the parking brake was working. We had a lengthy conversation and I did ask him if changing the battery damaged the sensor and he said no. The process to fix it is kind of very involved
 
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