Made an oopsie. Piston popped out.

Today I decided to do front/rear pads and rotors in my wife’s 2016 Mazda CX-5. Well I didn’t research the job well enough beforehand so didn’t know about the maintenance mode you need to set in order to retract the rear pistons.

So before I figured out how to properly do this job a rear piston popped out along with a piece that threads into the caliper. (Fluid poured everywhere) I threaded that piece back in and put the piston back in and finished the install. The boot did rip because I thought these were twist in at one point.

So the car is all together but I can’t get the air out of this caliper. Is it possible the threaded part isn’t seated right or the torn boot is causing this? Or do I just need to bleed this better. I’ve already used almost 32oz of fluid trying to get the air out...which isn’t right.

Car drives fine other than the spongy brakes.

thanks and lesson learned
 
A caliper rebuild kit would work, if you can find one. Probably easier and about the same cost to just buy a new caliper. Replace the brake hose while you’re under there. Yeah, we all miss the old days when cars were serviceable without all sorts of acrobatics and machinations.
 
These 2016 awd calipers aren’t readily available. Tried the local parts shops and searched google. Sounds like I may have to take it to the dealership. I’ll have them check over the caliper and flush the lines.
 
These 2016 awd calipers aren’t readily available. Tried the local parts shops and searched google. Sounds like I may have to take it to the dealership. I’ll have them check over the caliper and flush the lines.
Don’t feel too bad about getting new and revised rear brake calipers. You should get both sides of rear caliper for safety reason as the original calipers have some manufacture issues which will cause rear brake dragging or even total lock-up. Yes only revised OEM rear brake calipers are available at this time.

TSB R052/16C: Noise from REAR BRAKE/Trace of Rear Brake Dragging

Rear calipers

Need CX-5 help with rear brake change

2016 CX-5 Brake Caliper Problems
 
Last edited:
Drove it to the dealership and brakes felt solid. Didn’t noticed anything wrong with them. Should’ve just asked for an inspection sticker.
 
Today I decided to do front/rear pads and rotors in my wife’s 2016 Mazda CX-5. Well I didn’t research the job well enough beforehand so didn’t know about the maintenance mode you need to set in order to retract the rear pistons.

So before I figured out how to properly do this job a rear piston popped out along with a piece that threads into the caliper. (Fluid poured everywhere) I threaded that piece back in and put the piston back in and finished the install. The boot did rip because I thought these were twist in at one point.

So the car is all together but I can’t get the air out of this caliper. Is it possible the threaded part isn’t seated right or the torn boot is causing this? Or do I just need to bleed this better. I’ve already used almost 32oz of fluid trying to get the air out...which isn’t right.

Car drives fine other than the spongy brakes.

thanks and lesson learned
Hi,

I read your post and I'm in same position as you are. I actually engaged brake service mode but the piston did not fully get pushed in so I disengaged service mode and now my piston is out all the way. My brake light on dash and red and EPB light is blinking yellow.

I'm getting piston compressor in by mail tomorrow so I'm going to try to push the piston back in. Did you have to twist clockwise or do you just push piston without turning? I cant get the car back on EPB service mode. Will i damage the piston if my car is not in brake service mode?

Did you have the lights on like mine? If so, did the lights get turned off automatically after you compressed piston?

Hope to hear your feedback before I start the compression. Thanks in advance
 
Last edited:
... now my piston is out all the way. ....
It sounds like with your vehicle the piston didn't detach from the caliper, and no fluid spilled. If so, that's not the same thing that happened to the op of this thread, and you might be able use a combination of GENTLE pushing and turning the piston to reengage the threads. However, you must not use excessive force if it doesn't want to move under reasonable pressure. And also stop pushing/turning immediately if it feels like the piston has reengaged the threads, and retry maintenance mode again. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap before you try this, in order to alleviate fluid pressure.
 
Hi,

I read your post and I'm in same position as you are. I actually engaged brake service mode but the piston did not fully get pushed in so I disengaged service mode and now my piston is out all the way. My brake light on dash and red and EPB light is blinking yellow.

I'm getting piston compressor in by mail tomorrow so I'm going to try to push the piston back in. Did you have to twist clockwise or do you just push piston without turning? I cant get the car back on EPB service mode. Will i damage the piston if my car is not in brake service mode?

Did you have the lights on like mine? If so, did the lights get turned off automatically after you compressed piston?

Hope to hear your feedback before I start the compression. Thanks in advance
If you have a 2016 CX-5, see the TSB R052/16C in post #4 above. You’d be better off to get a new and revised OEM rear disk calipers for safety reason. They’re not that expensive anyway.

2016 CX-5
Part NamePart NumberQ’tyMSRPSale Price
CALIPER (R)KAY0-26-61XA1$178.51$127.44
CALIPER (L)KAY0-26-71XA1$181.13$129.31
GASKET9956-21-0004$2.78$2.09
SEAL KIT, MOTORKAY0-26-44Z2$15.10$11.33
PAD SUB SET,KAY0-26-48Z1$80.78$58.64
PLATE, DISCK011-26-251B /
K011-26-251C
2$99.95$72.55
 
If you have a 2016 CX-5, see the TSB R052/16C in post #4 above. You’d be better off to get a new and revised OEM rear disk calipers for safety reason. ....
Yes, definitely the best choice if the cost is not an issue, and this individual feels comfortable doing caliper replacement.
 
Back