KLZE how to

DuRWooD

Member
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'02 MP5, '89 BMW 535i
Firstly, this is the way I did my swap. It may not have been the best soloution, but it's what made sence to me.

I used both the V6, and the P5 computers at the same time. I did this because much of the P5's functionality is controlled through the computer, and the P5's wiring harness is a pain to take apart.

I had a 94 MX3 sitting in my back shop that I originally bought as a rally car project, but decided the car was a little too girly (dunno). anyway, I took the engine out of this car, and tore the wiring all out of it. (Now I know the engine removal was unnecessary)

Parts Needed.

Engine: curved neck KLZE, straight neck would probably hit the brake booster. 200hp, 165 ft/lbs tq stock

Transmission: Stock protege with KL bellhousing. I used a 94 MX3 Tranny, as the gear ratios are closer, and I didn't have to tear apart the tranny.

Clutch and flywheel: you want an MX3 flywheel (lightweight) and and MX6 clutch kit (this will bolt onto MX3 flywheel). I had trouble getting the MX6 throwout bearing to work, so I used an MX3 one.

Radiator: You'll need to either run a V6 rad like me, or modify the stock one to work. I used an MX3 Rad, to fit it, I had my airconditioning drained, then removed the system. I also had to cut away the side supports for the old rad. To fit the V6 rad, I cut enough away for it to fit in, then made some mounts at the bottom, and basically zip tied it into place.


Wiring Harness, computer: Complete uncut engine harness from a KL vehicle. Again I used my 94 MX3 parts. The computer will have to be chipped to get rid of the EGR codes, and set the VRIS points correctly. Look up the probinator chip on Probetalk.com.

Engine mounts: All of the stock engine mounts bolt up to the tranny and engine. On the engine however, on the passenger side, the studs in the KL engine are too long, you need to take the ones out of the FS block and put them in the same spot on the KL. I recommend getting some very stiff AWR mounts as the V6 is a much smoother engine, and there's no bad vibes.


Engine Removal (Obviously not a complete step by step)
Drain fluids, unhook all connectors (marking them, you'll need to know a couple later, and you might change your mind).

Unbolt exhaust at the bottom, unhook shifter components from the engine, pull half shafts out of the transmission (hard to do, but you don't have to take them right out of the car, just free them from the tranny)

With your hoist supporting the engine, unbolt mounts. Lift (have a friend to watch the engine from one side, you on the other) I did it myself, and got a little scratch to prove it.

discard engine (rockon)
well, actually take the reverse sensor out of the transmission (it bolts into the new one, and is easier to connect to the P5 harness.

Prep new engine:
maintenance, put the flywheel/clutch on, mount the tranny, put the P5 slave cylinder on the new tranny, check to make sure the fork feels right (compare to the original) I had some trouble here, had to change throwout bearings.
Install mounts one by one, making sure that since these mounts bolt up to different spots than the original that the bolt holes on your new transmission are free of dirt. (this cost me half a day's work on a nice day when I cracked the bellhousing attaching one of the mounts, if this happens, take it to a welder, or if you're a better welder than me, fix it).
Also, replace P5 jackshaft with V6 jack shaft on the passenger side. Have it sitting there in the engine bay attached to the P5 half shaft.


Install wiring harness in engine bay (fit the new harness through the same hole as the P5 one goes though, just cut away the rubber grommet). Seal up the hole with something later.

Install the engine just like the old one came out. Making sure that as you lower the engine in, you orient the half shafts correctly, or they're a b**** later.

bolt it all up, if you're like me you've mangled a couple dealer specific bolts (specifically the shifter linkage), replace as necessary.

Connect all your engine sensors. Connect speed and reverse to P5 original wiring. Also connect the starter and oil sensor to the factory harness. As for the alternator, I used the V6 one which is internally regulated, also it connects to the factory wiring, but don't connect the small connector (they are the same). Run a fused (30A) wire from the battery to the thicker of the two wires coming from the small connector.

To wire the computer, it needs a couple of things, first, it needs constant, on, cranking, and run signals (If I remember correctly) and a ground.

As for the disty, if it is a newer KLZE, it will have the north american disty, which plugs right in to your harness. Older ones will have to look up the H.E.I. conversion, and run an external coil (probetalk), or swap over to an A-spec disty. There is a thick blue wire (~12 awg) that comes in from the harness at the computer, this goes to the disty, and needs to be supplied with a 30A fused ON power source. I tapped into the back of the fuse/joint box near the dead pedal on the driver's floor (the thick blue wire on the back of that is perfect)

You'll then need to hook up your throttle cable (it'll go in, just mount it on an angle so you get full movement with the pedal (verify this with a friend))

You then need to hook up the power steering, for this, the high pressure line bolts right to the V6 pump (use new crush washers) with a little mauvering. The return however is a pain. The easiest way is to take the return pipe off of the pump (careful not to damage it, it's ~$40 from Mazda). Then cut it off right at the elbow where it's a little thinner. Then take a dremel, and clean up the cut, and blow out any loose metal. Make sure nothing's going to get into the system here. Then what you want to do is take the stock return pipe (it's short) and get about 4' (might have been only 3' now that I think about it) of the same size hose. Then you want to lube it up, and force it over that suction pipe you cut up earlier. Throw a pipe clamp on there, and bolt it to the pump (I warn you this is a royal pain, very hard to reach area, lots of crap in the way)

Then hook up your fuel lines. I cut the plastic lines right where the V6's metal lines come off the back of the engine. Then I cut the barbs off of the V6's lines, and got a plastic to metal adaptor for the high pressure lines, and put some fuel hose and hose clamps over the return. Works, no leaks.

Hook up an intake, if you're using the MX3 computer, use a JE50 VAF (MX3 stock; these are sought after anyway, as they work with the Jap computer too)

rig up an exhaust adaptor to connect to the stock exhaust (make sure you've grabbed some down pipes from a junked V6 with the O2 sensors intact (they are $$$$$$$))

You're going to have to take out the fuel pump relay, and run a jumper across the leads so the fuel pump runs constant when the car is in the on position.

Make sure everything is connected (including coolant lines) fill your fluids, start it up.





Well, that's about it, That much wiring will get it going, I'll let you know more details about the wiring when I get it to a point where I'm completely satisfied electrically.

It's damn near 3 am so I'm sure I forgot a few things here and there, but If you have any questions let me know. This is obviously not a swap to be attempted by just anyone, but if you feel comfortable working on cars, there is no magic tricks, or anything overly complicated about it. Total cost so far since I already had the MX3, is about $1500 cdn.



Rock on (rockon)

DuRWooD
 
Badass but we pic ho's upinheeya I tell ya. lol.................when you can please.
 
Excellent write up and actually the work was way more feasible than i thought it would be.

I stand corrected. Good mod.
 
no ac, but has PS, from what I read.

If the engine ever blows in mine, I'd love to do this swap.
 
no ac, but has PS, from what I read.

If the engine ever blows in mine, I'd love to do this swap.

you and a few hundred other people......i'ld love to do this swap, but i'm planning to do a built 318 swap into my dakota after i get 'done' with my p5 soo....the truck will be my monster and the car will be the fun.....i might just go fi on the p5, plus we have inspections here so it couldn't fly
 
so in order for this to work as far as bolting in,,,,all you do is swap the passanger side threads,,


I know on the bg u have to swap crosmembers,,this isnt needed for the BJ?


i have a bj 01 that has no motor or trans so all info is appreciated.
 
I was just thinking about a swap to ZE on the P5 last week. I know 4cyl to 6 is possible on the Probes as I have done it before, was wondering about the harness on the P5 and computer issues more than anything.

Did you have to worry about the hubs for the v6 axles?
 
Bump.


Pics? please? Wife and I are talking about this, she does not think it will fit in the engine bay.
 
My motor in my 2002 p5 is going to blow up soon, it has a nasty knock. I was woundering about upgrading to a klze. I am in no position to do a motor swap though(do to lack of tools and knowledge). if i just buy a rear wrecked mx3 with a klze, what car shop would do a swap. I dont have unlimited funds but what would be an estimated cost of labour.
 
My motor in my 2002 p5 is going to blow up soon, it has a nasty knock. I was woundering about upgrading to a klze. I am in no position to do a motor swap though(do to lack of tools and knowledge). if i just buy a rear wrecked mx3 with a klze, what car shop would do a swap. I dont have unlimited funds but what would be an estimated cost of labour.

First off,

An engine swap is easy to do, dont be scared.

American Probes, Mx6's came with the KLDE engine, and the MX3 is a KL series, but a 1.8L v6.

The true KLZE engines are shipped over from Japan, Germany, etc. And they are pretty cheap for under 1K

I am interested in this, but I want to see some pictures. Though I have no doubt it will fit, and of course the big question is if a straight neck KLZE manifold will fit or not.

I would also like to see more info on the wiring, not half ass zip ties and electrical tape wiring, wiring that brings a 2003 model car to work with an engine out of say a 95-97 model car.

I am planning on this and currently looking for the right (and cheap) MX6 with a KL 2.5L and 5spd for donating what I need electrical and hardware wise, but this walk through does not answer alot of questions, did the exhaust from the V6 bolt up to the factory line running back, if you did 2 computers, why and how well does the dash work, why does your ac not work, etc, etc.

So, please return with some pictures and an update.....
 
Took me awhile but I managed to track this guy down.

He is a member of the toronto protege forum and lives in the great north.

I did see some pictures of the car, only 1 shows the actual engine, there is alot of room, but, BUT it looks like he fell victim to the "Millenium" ZE engine and not the real Straight neck ZE. The engine it appears he has looks to be a JDM, but that model is no different than an American KLDE engine. I am still not sure if the straight neck IM will fit in front of the brake booster until, I get to that point.

There seems to be next to nothing on this conversion, mechanically it bolts right in, electrical seems to be the issue and I will not jimmy rig the harness to work, I want it to work and look correct.

At this stage, buying an MX6 or 626 and using it as a donor car to put that motor/tranny in it and use the car for all of the other parts you need, would be the easiest thing to do, the electrical still is the problem but at least you dont have to mess with the MAP/VAF/ECU for the JDM KLZE.
 
I am also interested in the kl swap but need more info on the wiring and if the ac will fit. I live in texas so need ac and we have emissions here so need it to pass inspection. and will it work with auto?
 
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