2014~2021 Going to war with Mazda re: rear brakes

I’ve had no issues its driven daily on a sales route and is the turbo. I have put on 40k miles since new December 2018. I’ve replaced spark plugs as part of the schedule pm. Spark plugs are now available at auto parts store NGK as opposed to the exclusive dealership and the brakes just because I had a shudder when stopping from 50 mph. I do 5k mile oil change using Quaker state full synthetic along with either wix or purolator one filter. I use regular gas from Costco or Valero and sometimes Sams club. i have experimented with premium but noticed no difference to justify 40 cent price difference mpg stays the same 27 overall. On highway I average 34.
 
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‘17 CX9 & ‘19 3 GT
I’ve had no issues its driven daily on a sales route and is the turbo. I have put on 40k miles since new December 2018. I’ve replaced spark plugs as part of the schedule pm. Spark plugs are now available at auto parts store NGK as opposed to the exclusive dealership and the brakes just because I had a shudder when stopping from 50 mph. I do 5k mile oil change using Quaker state full synthetic along with either wix or purolator one filter. I use regular gas from Costco or Valero and sometimes Sams club. i have experimented with premium but noticed no difference to justify 40 cent price difference mpg stays the same 27 overall. On highway I average 34.
Good to know and thanks for the feedback! Seems like a reliable MY so I shouldn’t be too concerned abt esp the diff bet mine and the 2018 I was looking at is only a year
 
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Ottawa, Ontario
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17 Mazda 6 GT
First 4 pics are pics of the undercarriage of my 2017 Mazda 6.
20,000 kms (12,000 miles):
The other 3 pics are from my 18 year old Pathfinder with 330,000 kms (200,000 miles).
I'll leave it at that.
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sm1ke

Work In Progress..
Moderator
Contributor
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Canada
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'18 CX-9 Signature
IMO, I'd change out pads and rotors, then change my driving habits a bit.. I'd suggest a little hard braking before parking it every once in a while, say once every two weeks.

This is just a suggestion based on what I've read about rusty brakes in general. My reasoning behind this suggestion is that the hard braking would remove any patina/rust that might build up between the pad and rotor contact surfaces, and level out any "high spots" on the rotor. Admittedly I'm not sure if there is any merit to that reasoning, but it's something I would try if I were having this issue with my brake pads and rotors.
 
Wow has that pathfinder been rust proofed ? It looks kind of oily on the photos, but I have rarely seen an 18 year old car in the region this rust free. Congrats ! :)

Also, not a lot of people know this but keeping a car in the garage is often actually worst for rust than keeping it outside. Especially if it is a garage that is not heated but warm enough from being attached to the house to sit around the thawing point. The concrete soaks up the moisture and remain damp and the higher temperature activates the salt. Cold temperature from sitting outside actually slows down the corrosion process. If you garage is heated and allows the car and concrete to dry quickly then it is less of an issue.

I am not saying that is what happened definitely for your car since I don't know if your pathfinder was also garage kept but just something to keep that in mind. They have been spraying salt on the road like crazy in Ottawa these last winters because of the high up and down in temperature, that doesn't help. I recommend getting your car rustproofed. Corrosion free is supposed to be great and Holiday Auto in Ottawa offer the service (as well as Canadian Tire, but I don't like CT). Krown is good too but can swell the rubber seals if the shop doesn't do a good job with protecting first. This won't do anything for brake rust but will help the rest of the car.
 
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Ottawa, Ontario
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17 Mazda 6 GT
Well, I got the chance to really get under the car today, as I changed out my summer tires and rims for my winter boots.
I spent the majority of the day at each corner when a wheel was off and the car was in the air to liberally apply a layer of undercoating. I spread the stuff on and in every nook and cranny I could get to, whether it was rusty or not. The majority of the rust was actually on suspension parts (control arms, links, etc), and not on the actual unibody undercarriage. That part was still clean. I was pleasantly surprised about that.
Maybe Mazda just uses crappy metal on their suspension components. I don't know. Even though they appear to be painted (black) the rust just seems to eat right through.
I'm much less stressed now, so I guess that's a good thing. I still need new rear rotors, but on closer inspection today, the pads on all four corners are wearing evenly, and have a fair bit of life left.
That's reassuring as well.
I guess I'll know next April whether my efforts have paid off.

As for the Pathfinder: I bought it in 2003 when it was a year old.
It had been a dealer loaner, and apparently was undercoated.
I oil sprayed it once early in it's life, but have run it in every winter since I bought it.
The body is rusting fairly badly now, but mechanically, it's still solid.
The only thing not working now is my A/C. That finally crapped out this summer.
No complaints on this vehicle. I beat the crap out of it.
It has been bullet proof. It's the best generation Pathfinder that Nissan made.
Subsequent generations are garbage.

Cheers all.
 

HardRightEdg

US 2020 CX-5 Touring AWD Soul Red
I'm reminded of my 2006 Accord V6 where the front rotors started going bad at 20k miles. And that was with a high percentage of open road driving in the Illinois flatlands. The county where I lived for most of that time did not have a single stoplight, to give you some idea. Honda had class action suits relating to brakes on other recent models, but not that one. I pled my case to a dealer, not the one I bought it from because I had moved, to no avail.

I asked him if about his experience with aftermarket rotors. All I got was a shrug and, "I can do that if you want." I went with the aftermarkets which were something like $40 apiece cheaper if memory serves. I don't have the service records anymore but I do know I got a whole lot more than 20k miles on that aftermarket set.

Long story short, there can be exceptions to the conventional wisdom that OEM is better than aftermarket, tires aside. The question before the court is whether anybody who experienced poor OEM wear on pads and/or rotors got more life out of aftermarket sets.

Here's one thread on the matter: