Fresh Sweet Donuts Everywhere! (work log)

Been kind of troubleshooting an issue on and off for the past few months. Usually in hot weather, the car would drive itself when letting off the throttle, like the car had cruise control...? Haha. It wouldn't speed up or anything, just maintain speed. It ended up being the cheapo TPS I installed back in May of 2018. I know, why did I even install an ebay TPS? It's what I had on hand and wanted the car operational. Hey, it did last a while so I guess I'll give it that. Damian hooked me up with a couple throttle bodies he had on hand. Cleaned one of them and installed it last Wednesday but didn't get a chance to go for a ride with it until today. I know it's only been one short trip but the car does seem like it's back to normal. Let off the gas and engine braking happens immediately.

Thanks @Dpwhitehead1 !

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Heard a weird noise one day going from neutral to first. Like if you had a bunch of washers and bolts in your hands and jiggled it. Crawled under and found the shift linkage bushings are done. Ordered some a couple weeks ago and finally got to it. Have the shift linkage removed so I can work on it when I have spare time.

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Referring to the picture above, I was only able to install the longer bolt of the two included. I was unaware the shorter one is for the bottom of the shifter to the shift linkage which doesn't work for me because I have a TWM short shifter and it uses a skinnier bolt. TWM came with their own bushings and they've worked well over the past decade. I'm positive the shorter bolt and bushings are made for the OEM shifter if my memory serves me right. If anyone is interested in purchasing that piece from me, shoot me a message.

Drilled out the pressed bolt a bit and then used a flathead and a hammer to get the thinner side of the head off.

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Success!

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Photo didn't focus properly but of course I couldn't just have stuck the bushings in. You can see a metal nub inside that I had to file off. It wouldn't allow the new bushing to slide in otherwise.

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All done. I thought the kit would replace the square head bolt and bushings too, identical to the long bolt shown in the product but it didn't. That's my mistake for assuming things. Just spoke to Scott from Exile Autoworx and placed another order for one of the longer bolts and bushings :)

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All in all I'm happy it went pretty smoothly and it did replace the bushings that were causing all the noise.
 
It gets rid of all the slop for sure when you're not using squishy bushings. Thanks for the compliment! I just enjoy taking pics and haven't used the camera in a long time. I understand the basics of exposing a photo but by no means a professional photographer 😂
 
Those bushings work great, my shifter and linkage are identical and have held up for many miles.

Always great pictures in your posts, what sort of camera do you use?
 
Not too much going on here. Been driving the car at least once a week and it's been behaving properly (knock on wood) ever since I replaced the throttle body. Thanks again @Dpwhitehead1 ! That bad TPS was triggering all sorts of other codes which hasn't came back yet. Hope it stays that way. I did end up reverting my passenger motor mount back to an OEM style one and used old AWR inserts I had from before. It got rid of a lot of the noise and vibrations that were being transferred into the cabin which I was getting pretty tired of. Doesn't seem to have created a lot of engine slop either so it seems like a win win for me. Other than that, I have an oil change coming up on the MSP and just been working on maintaining the rest of the fleet and house chores.

Oh, and I made a meme :)😂

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Looks great clowd. What kind of engine mounts would you recommend that are still streetable and not rattling the whole dash/interior?
 
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Klop8262 said:
Looks great clowd. What kind of engine mounts would you recommend that are still streetable and not rattling the whole dash/interior?
Click to expand...

Based on my experience, the ideal setup for daily is either:

1. Solid front motor mount (Hydra or AWR Racing sells one) and inserts (AWR Racing) on driver and passenger side mounts. Rear motor mount definitely not a solid rear motor mount, but filled with 3M window weld or just OEM replacement.
2. Fill all the mounts with 3M window weld.

Option 2 is the most cost effective but will need the car to be down while the stuff dries unless you fill a new/spare set. AWR Racing sells inserts for the passenger and driver side ones which will work as long as your current mounts aren't torn already. Based on my experience, a solid front motor mount doesn't really transmit too much vibes to the cabin. Seems like a solid rear mount transfers the most vibes and a solid passenger mount comes in second. If you dug into the past of my thread, you'll see I've already reverted the old mount first and now the passenger side one lol.
 
Agreed on mounts, I'm giving solid Awr mounts another go however as Awr just started offering a refurbishing service where you pay a bit for them to repowder cost your mount and change bushings to one of your choice. They now offer a softer 62 durometer and after sending a trashed passenger side mount in for the service I am hopeful.

But I think the ideal setup as you mentioned is solid but soft duro front, maybe soft rear and then filled for the trans and pass side mount. I'm going to try 62d side and trans mount and then filled front and rear.

Mount Refurbishment - AWR Store

store.awrracing.com store.awrracing.com
 
I saw that they offered that but I wasn't willing to chance how much softer 62 duro will be compared to the 70 duro I ran. Especially when I knew what filled mounts and inserts felt like compared to solid mounts. That made my choice easy. I'm interested in hearing of your experience though!
 
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