Dealer/Shop 4 post lifting points

So I've seen the pics from the service manual that highlights the single front and rear pump jack jacking points, as well as the 4 spots along the pinch weld where the factory scissor jack is used.
When rotating tires at home, I've lifted the front at the lower control arm mounting point, and at the rear under the trailing arm (see pics).

I also noticed for oval slots along the main frame,,front and rear, with cut outs in the under body panels for them. My wife's previous car had these holes, and I bought pucs to fit them, and they worked on the 9, not perfectly as the press up on the under panels, but lifted ok (see pic of rear oval hole and the puc I used).

My question is, are these acceptable lifting locations? And where does the dealer lift with a 4 post lift?
I'm about the get my tires replaced, and am worried they will use the pinch weld jacking points as those seem obvious, but I'm, afraid they will get crushed, and looks like its never been lifted at the welds before, even for the mazda certified inspection.
 

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You mean 2 post lift? I don't think there are any special lift points except the scissors jack locations. I can relate to your concern as my previous car had very weak pinch weld. But I can say the pinch welds on this car are quite stout as I've used a jack to lift the entire side of the car multiple times without any issue at all.

When I rotate my tires, I usually lift the entire front half of the car via the subframe. Then jack stands at the scissors jack points, and lift the rear half via the diff. Zero issues at all. Hope this helps.
 
Ok, thanks, that's good to know. Yes, sorry, I meant 2 post lift, 4 point contact/support, as you would find at typical dealer/service shop. I'm still curious about those oval puck slot locations, why would those be there front and rear, and then even have a cut out in under carriage panels.
 
I think the oval slots for for the lashing chains on the car carrier that brought the cars from Japan. They're tie-down points, not jack-up points.
 
Well got my tires mounted and they used the emergency jacking pinch weld locations, the lift had round metal adjustable contact pads with rubber on the top. I placed doubled up duct tap at the spots beforehand to prevent scratching paint, cause rust will soon follow. No damage, no crushing after the change over.

I have used those oval slots as jacking points, so I think they will be ok and I like them better for a single tire removal as 1 jack at one location of a pinch weld concerns me. All 4 evenly being used and straight up like at the tire shop obviously is ok though.
 
According to the manual these are the lift points: the cross members, or rear diff if you have AWD. The Pinch welds inside the provided locations are also suitable according to the second illustration.
I would advise against the ovals as those don't appear to be viable lifting points. The welds are tested and designed to hold the weight. You could buy a set of pinch weld pucks to better distribute the weight if you're worried about them being crushed.
CX9 lift points.png

CX9 lift points 2.jpg
 
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" You would buy a set of pinch weld pucks to better distribute the weight if you're worried about them being crushed. "

That's what I use; works great. When I next need to buy one I'll get the magnetic one that sticks in place while I position the jack.
 
" You would buy a set of pinch weld pucks to better distribute the weight if you're worried about them being crushed. "

That's what I use; works great. When I next need to buy one I'll get the magnetic one that sticks in place while I position the jack.
Yeah I need to get a set of 4. But with so many types and pinch weld sizes I've just been to lazy to go out with calipers and measure the weld thickness. I also want to get a set of quickjacks. But seeing the price I keep holding out for my "next house" to install a real 2 post lift.
 
When I rotate my tires, I usually lift the entire front half of the car via the subframe. Then jack stands at the scissors jack points, and lift the rear half via the diff. Zero issues at all. Hope this helps.
Does this mean you can get the car off all four wheels at the same time?
 
I mentioned in my original post, I was aware of the Mazda approved jacking locations, I used the search function :).

Also, I do have pucs with the groove in them to help avoid crushing the pinch welds, so will supply these to the shop next time. I was more interested in what people are aware of the dealer doing? Maybe they use the pucs or something similar at all 4 pinch welds when servicing our cars at the dealer? Also, was curious about the oval hole locations and if they could be used for jacking as I have done on my other cars (they were known jacking locations, when using a puc as pictured in my original email. I can see them being tie downs as mentioned, but would like to confirm jacking. If other cars state to use them as such, I suppose our car should be no different. The unibody looks stout at these spots.
 
I mentioned in my original post, I was aware of the Mazda approved jacking locations, I used the search function :).
Also, I do have pucs with the groove in them to help avoid crushing the pinch welds, so will supply these to the shop next time.
I was more interested in what people are aware of the dealer doing? Maybe they use the pucs or something similar at all 4 pinch welds when servicing our cars at the dealer?
Also, was curious about the oval hole locations and if they could be used for jacking as I have done on my other cars (they were known jacking locations, when using a puc as pictured in my original email.
I can see them being tie downs as mentioned, but would like to confirm jacking. If other cars state to use them as such, I suppose our car should be no different. The unibody looks stout at these spots.

I tried finding anything in the manual about those oval points, I couldn't find anything. But I agree with you, I've seen those being used on other cars certainly, I just couldn't find any hard data for the CX9.
When I witnessed mine going in the air it was in the bay and the service bay techs swung the arms of the lift under it and had it up in the air within 2 minutes. I doubt most, if any, shops will ever look in the manual at jack points, just go straight to what's been done for years, the pinch welds. When the Dart and 300 came out, it was a huge problem for the first few years because the pinch welds were buried on those cars and techs just put the arms under the car and would end up crushing the rocker moldings. Even the new Vettes have different lift points and several reports of Chevy service bays dropping Corvettes. If techs don't look in the service manual for lifting points on a completely new car design for a sports car, you can be there is next to 0% chance a Mazda tech will look at that manual for a crossover lift points. Just my .02
 
Thanks for checking on those oval holes.
Exactly as you said, on my 05 Corvette when the C6 1st came out, had mine in for a recall, they lifted it and cracked the rocker at the front that wraps around underneath, and then on my wifes previous car to the CX-9, her Pontiac G8 GT, there is no spot either on the rockers without plastic rockers wrapped under it. So Ive been used to using the plastic pucs that fit into those holes for lifting vehicles for some time now, so will continue to experiment on the CX-9.
I really don't think brand or class of car had anything to do with it these days, but not sure what the issue is with dealers service anymore, that's why I to do as much as I can myself,
Hell the biggest Porsche dealer in Cleveland cracked my jack mounts when lifting my Cayenne for service, and bricked a body control module when programming it and is making me pay for it stating its not their fault. Haven't had to take the CX9 to the dealer yet.......so we will see.
 
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