(Solved) CX-5 won't shift out of park and won't start

Greetings everyone, new owner of 2018 CX-5 Grand Touring that needs some work.
I have been starting it to move it around and had no issues till the other day when I turned it off, tried to start it, but it wouldn't. Also, the shifter is stuck in park. Right now, I have the 'keyless system malfunction' and the push button flashes in amber.

- The car battery is charged at ~ 12.6,
- The stop light switch works fine; I checked resistance and lights.
- I replaced they keyfob battery.
- I overrode the shift lock and moved the shifter to Neutral, still won't start.

I'm trying to rule these out:
- Shift-lock solenoid
- Not P position switch
- Brake switch
- Start stop unit
- PCM

My first question is, is the 'Keyless system malfunction' a generic message when it can't start or is it possible that there is a communication issue?

keylessMalfunction.jpg


Any info would be appreciated, thank you!
 
Did you try holding the fob right next to the start button? Does the start button change from amber to green when you do it. If not then there's probably something wrong with the fob.
Did you get two fobs when you bought the car?

It won't start out of Park.
 
Did you try holding the fob right next to the start button? Does the start button change from amber to green when you do it. If not then there's probably something wrong with the fob.
Did you get two fobs when you bought the car?

It won't start out of Park.
I did that but the light does not change. The only time it changes to green is when I disconnect the battery and reconnect it. But even then, once I press on the start button, it starts to blink in amber.

I got one keyfob only and can unlock and lock the doors.
 
Try pushing the shifter up into the Park position with your hand and hold it there. See if the start button turns to green.
Is the vehicle still under factory warranty?
If so get it to the dealer and let them figure out what's wrong.
 
Where are you getting 12.6V? Is that right across the battery terminals? That is a very minimal reading. It’s quite possible that your battery is discharged or bad. I would try fully charging it first, but if that doesn’t work, I’d have it load tested. Even if you charge it and show 12.8 or 13.2 or whatever, if it doesn’t turn the car over well, have it load tested. I don’t know why it would stick in park, but a bad battery can cause all kinds of weird things in computer dependent cars.
 
Try pushing the shifter up into the Park position with your hand and hold it there. See if the start button turns to green.
Is the vehicle still under factory warranty?
If so get it to the dealer and let them figure out what's wrong.
It's already in the park position.
No warranty, unfortunately.
 
Where are you getting 12.6V? Is that right across the battery terminals? That is a very minimal reading. It’s quite possible that your battery is discharged or bad. I would try fully charging it first, but if that doesn’t work, I’d have it load tested. Even if you charge it and show 12.8 or 13.2 or whatever, if it doesn’t turn the car over well, have it load tested. I don’t know why it would stick in park, but a bad battery can cause all kinds of weird things in computer dependent cars.
Yes, across the battery terminals. I charged it and it read 13v, but did didn't measure it under load. I will try that.
 
Yes, across the battery terminals. I charged it and it read 13v, but did didn't measure it under load. I will try that.
I’ve seen more problems with this in the last few years than I can count, mostly on motorcycles, but also on these computers with wheels. I think a lot of batteries these days are poorly made too, just my opinion. They can show voltage, but don’t have any real amperage to start the car. Also, you probably know that right after you take it off the charger you will be seeing a surface charge that isn’t very accurate. Hopefully it’s the battery. Easy fix.
 
I’ve seen more problems with this in the last few years than I can count, mostly on motorcycles, but also on these computers with wheels. I think a lot of batteries these days are poorly made too, just my opinion. They can show voltage, but don’t have any real amperage to start the car. Also, you probably know that right after you take it off the charger you will be seeing a surface charge that isn’t very accurate. Hopefully it’s the battery. Easy fix.
I will definitely look into this and post back tomorrow. Thank you!
 
I did that but the light does not change. The only time it changes to green is when I disconnect the battery and reconnect it. But even then, once I press on the start button, it starts to blink in amber.

I got one keyfob only and can unlock and lock the doors.

Good luck with your issue and please keep us posted.

These cars come with two fobs and so should yours!

If I were you I would get another fob and have it setup to work with your CX ASAP. Imagine what you would have to go through if you lost your one and only fob or is it was damaged and didn't work!
 
Or, I could be totally full of it. 🤓
I did have my suspicion with the battery, but I charged it, checked it under load, and even swapped it. The voltage does not drop, and the issue persists. I need to figure out if the keyfob is working.
 
Good luck with your issue and please keep us posted.

These cars come with two fobs and so should yours!

If I were you I would get another fob and have it setup to work with your CX ASAP. Imagine what you would have to go through if you lost your one and only fob or is it was damaged and didn't work!
I bought it used and it only came with one keyfob, unfortunately. I will get a second key for sure, just trying to figure out if the one I have is/isn't working.
 
I checked/measured the relays. They are all good and there are no signs of corrosion.

Does anyone have the PCM wiring/pin-out? I found one but for 2016, and I'm not sure if they are the same. I need to test if the computer receives the signal when the start button is pushed.
 
Does your dashboard lightup ? I had a similar issue with an old Chrysler 300M. The car was in park and it didn t want to shift with key inside and it wouldn t start even though everything lights up perfectly and no faulty error. After about an hour of trying to figure things out, seems like the car was stuck in the wrong gear/neutral. Not sure it makes sense for you so thats why the car wouldn t shift from park and neither start.

I got it solved by shifting into neutral, then insert the key turn the engine on, and shift into park and everything went back to normal.

I would try something like this, not sure is going to work cause it wasn t a push start button but its worth trying.
 
Does your dashboard lightup ? I had a similar issue with an old Chrysler 300M. The car was in park and it didn t want to shift with key inside and it wouldn t start even though everything lights up perfectly and no faulty error. After about an hour of trying to figure things out, seems like the car was stuck in the wrong gear/neutral. Not sure it makes sense for you so thats why the car wouldn t shift from park and neither start.

I got it solved by shifting into neutral, then insert the key turn the engine on, and shift into park and everything went back to normal.

I would try something like this, not sure is going to work cause it wasn t a push start button but its worth trying.
Thank you for the info!

The dash lights up and I don't get any errors except for the keyless system malfunction, as shown in the picture. I did try to move the shifter and ran it through P, R, N, D by overriding it. I even tried to start it in Neutral and tried all possible combinations, including what you suggested, still same issue. If the anti-shift switch was faulty, at least it should start in Neutral.

Thank you again!
 
I have crossed off a couple of more items from the list. Now I am left with the PCM, push/stop module, immobilizer and keyfob.

When the start button is pushed, the PCM should receive the signal and check a couple of things before energizing the starter relay; 1) the shifter is in P or N, and 2) the brake pedal is depressed. This is assuming the there is no issue with communication between the immobilizer and the keyfob. When I push the button, I verified that the starter relay does not get any signal, so I need to make sure the PCM is receiving power before I can rule out anything else.
 
No specific mention about testing fuses so I'll ask if you checked everything in both fuse boxes.
 
Thank you for the info!

The dash lights up and I don't get any errors except for the keyless system malfunction, as shown in the picture. I did try to move the shifter and ran it through P, R, N, D by overriding it. I even tried to start it in Neutral and tried all possible combinations, including what you suggested, still same issue. If the anti-shift switch was faulty, at least it should start in Neutral.

Thank you again!
One more thing. Did you had the key with you inside the car when you tried to override the shifting? Maybe because it senses the key, the shifter will not be overidden.

I am just throwing weird idea there but maybe try to open the car and let the key outside of the car range, shift the car in neutral, then bring the key in and try to start it it neutral. Probably not going to work but is worth trying.
 
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