Crankshaft Pulley help

I need serious help! I am by far any type of mechanic, but for a chick I have done pretty good taking care of my 02 Mazda Protege lx 2.0L. I have ran into 2 issues actually. The main concern here is my crankshaft pulley. It has a slight wobble! No biggie right, well now it has a noise with it. My alternator going bad brought the wobble to my attention. Then after getting stuck in the mud (accidentally) idiot rednecks cant drive their big ole pick ups without making a mess! My tranny making a noise scared me (mud in flywheel)! I know my car, every shake, shimmy, sound, and vibration. This was a new sound and a slightly different thrum I would say. I've slowly been rebuilding my 02, it had 70k on it when I bought it replaced timing belt 2019. Alternator last week. Have a new starter for it, and ac compressor, cause my clutch plate on mine broke, water pump seems fine no overheating issues, bearings in wheels are all going bad, those next! Door lock actuators etc. I love my car! So I'm concerned about this wobble and thrumming sound. As well as the vaccum leak it has to have because I have literally replaced every sensor this car has, as well as coil paks 3times, and spark plugs every other oil change. Air filter etc...cant find the leak, but when I had my dash apart (changing hvac speed control knob & radio) When I drove It was like I could hear the vaccum leak...that was my next question. So mainly do I need to worry about my crank, and does anyone have a clue as to where that stubborn vacuum leak is?
 
I've replaced over 1/2 of all the hoses, just cause it's over 15yrs old and got 170k on it. Still going...parts arent cheap when raising 3 girls on a single mom income! But I'm getting there.

Bend the accordion part of the intake snorkel when you remove it to inspect it.
Mine looked fine but when I bent the tube, a crack opened up that went half way around the tube.

I was getting fuel trim codes when mine was cracked.
 
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If I were you, I would replace the crankshaft pulley. (AKA. harmonic balancer.)

The pulley is actually two pieces, an inner and outer part that are glued together with rubber.
They have been know to separate and slip causing the toothed ring to go out of sync.
The crank sensor then gets bad data and the ECU shuts down the engine.

The outer circumference of the crank pulley can completely separate and come flying off the engine.

The area circled in red is rubber.
There is a missing tooth that let's the crank sensor and ECU know where the crankshaft is.



Screenshot_20210217-153511_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
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If I were you, I would replace the crankshaft pulley. (AKA. harmonic balancer.)

The pulley is actually two pieces, an inner and outer part that are glued together with rubber.
They have been know to separate and slip causing the toothed ring to go out of sync.
The crank sensor then gets bad data and the ECU shuts down the engine.

The outer circumference of the crank pulley can completely separate and come flying off the engine.

The area circled in red is rubber.
There is a missing tooth that let's the crank sensor and ECU know where the crankshaft is.
Thank you, one more for ya, so I know the wheel bearings on my car can/will cause bad gas mileage but will that pulley messing up do that as well? Cause once again I'm getting codes that I know are due to a vacuum leak, but my rough idle and not exactly a skip but jerk while stopped is worse since I replaced my alternator.
 
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Thank you, one more for ya, so I know the wheel bearings on my car can/will cause bad gas mileage but will that pulley messing up do that as well?

My car was humming/rumbling and buzzing up the cab when the bearing was bad.



The longer you let it go, the more seized the bearing can become in the hub.

Front bearing replacement can be a Huge PITA.


Any vibration in the car can damage other components.
Everything the crank pulley it connected to.

It's not about the gas mileage, its about potential damage.


Cause once again I'm getting codes that I know are due to a vacuum leak, but my rough idle and not exactly a skip but jerk while stopped is worse since I replaced my alternator.


Your car is relearning how to idle the car.

It takes about 100 miles of driving before the idle smoothes out after the battery is disconnected .
 
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My car was humming/rumbling and buzzing up the cab when the bearing was bad.



The longer you let it go, the more seized the bearing can become in the hub.

Front bearing replacement can be a Huge PITA.


Any vibration in the car can damage other components.
Everything the crank pulley it connected to.

It's not about the gas mileage, its about potential damage.





Your car is relearning how to idle the car.

It takes about 100 miles of driving before the idle smoothes out after tge battery is disconnected .
Thank you PCB (Panama city beach?) That would explain everything, cept the vacuum leak I cant find. Then again maybe once I change the tranny mount replace all 4 bearings now (replaced the original bad one) and my FDS brake caliper it's not working right. That will be just about everything major besides motor that I have replaced on it. I have learned so much from these threads and u-tube videos! And know more about my car than most of the mechanics around here! Thank you again. I'll holler back here if I have anymore questions
 
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Thank you PCB (Panama city beach?)
No, far from it.
I live in the Great White North-east rustbelt.

Screenshot_20210217-175740_Gallery.jpg




Those are my initials. Lol


That would explain everything, cept the vacuum leak I cant find. Then again maybe once I change the tranny mount replace all 4 bearings now (replaced the original bad one) and my FDS brake caliper it's not working right. That will be just about everything major besides motor that I have replaced on it. I have learned so much from these threads and u-tube videos! And know more about my car than most of the mechanics around here! Thank you again. I'll holler back here if I have anymore questions

You can spray carb cleaner around your intake and vacuum lines while your car is idling.

If the RPM increases, you've found your leak.




Thread 'Protege5 idling problem' https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/index.php?threads/protege5-idling-problem.123873742/
 
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No, far from it.
I live in the Great White North-east rustbelt.

View attachment 295477



Those are my initials. Lol




You can spray carb cleaner around your intake and vacuum lines while your car is idling.

If the RPM increases, you've found your leak.




Thread 'Protege5 idling problem' https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/index.php?threads/protege5-idling-problem.123873742/
Yeah seen that post tried it, my besties old man "mechanic" tried it, none found, gonna try the smoke test next. I think it's by the firewall.
 
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... When I drove It was like I could hear the vaccum leak...that was my next question. So mainly do I need to worry about my crank, and does anyone have a clue as to where that stubborn vacuum leak is?


Do you have any codes, or does your car have any driveability issues?
(Other than the recent idle issue.)

Start with your codes and work from there.
 
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Do you have any codes, or does your car have any driveability issues?
(Other than the recent idle issue.)

Start with your codes and work from there.
I've done that also. It throws a bank low code, misfire code, and o2/catalyst code. All sensors been changed, new plugs and packs, exhaust good. It was a thread on here that helped me test things like my exhaust, and watch listen and feel for the fluctuation in my rpms, finally realize it was a vacuum leak.
 
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Check the accordion piece of the intake tubing. Take it off and look. Cracks are hard to find with it on the car. Also scan under hood for any cracked hoses and/or dangling ones or something that a hose should be on but isn't.
 
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Check the accordion piece of the intake tubing. Take it off and look. Cracks are hard to find with it on the car. Also scan under hood for any cracked hoses and/or dangling ones or something that a hose should be on but isn't.
I will check it again. Because I did at the beginning, but since then I've changed motor mounts, and done other work that required jacking of the car, no loose hoses clean sensors regularly, plus they arent a year old.
 
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So here's another one for y'all. My timing housing, its plastic! On the top right corner (if I'm standing at my FPS looking at it) where the housing ties into the valve cover there is a spot where its broke and whoever changed the last valve cover gasket or maybe when it was put together that piece was smashed under my valve cover. Since then I've replaced the seal twice. Once when I did the timing and once more when the issues started. I used some gasket maker to make sure it was sealed well. But I'm think my plastic epoxy may be a better idea, and could that piece being broken be the issue?
 
Upvote 0
I need serious help! I am by far any type of mechanic, but for a chick I have done pretty good taking care of my 02 Mazda Protege lx 2.0L. I have ran into 2 issues actually. The main concern here is my crankshaft pulley. It has a slight wobble! No biggie right, well now it has a noise with it. My alternator going bad brought the wobble to my attention. Then after getting stuck in the mud (accidentally) idiot rednecks cant drive their big ole pick ups without making a mess! My tranny making a noise scared me (mud in flywheel)! I know my car, every shake, shimmy, sound, and vibration. This was a new sound and a slightly different thrum I would say. I've slowly been rebuilding my 02, it had 70k on it when I bought it replaced timing belt 2019. Alternator last week. Have a new starter for it, and ac compressor, cause my clutch plate on mine broke, water pump seems fine no overheating issues, bearings in wheels are all going bad, those next! Door lock actuators etc. I love my car! So I'm concerned about this wobble and thrumming sound. As well as the vaccum leak it has to have because I have literally replaced every sensor this car has, as well as coil paks 3times, and spark plugs every other oil change. Air filter etc...cant find the leak, but when I had my dash apart (changing hvac speed control knob & radio) When I drove It was like I could hear the vaccum leak...that was my next question. So mainly do I need to worry about my crank, and does anyone have a clue as to where that stubborn vacuum leak is?
I also intend to convert it to a manual in a couple years. My kids dont know how to drive a stick! It's what I was taught on! Got my license with and how I fell in love with Mazdas
 
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But I'm think my plastic epoxy may be a better idea, and could that piece being broken be the issue?

I doubt it.
The covers are just to keep dirt and water from contaminating the timing belt.
The timing belt is actually an external part of the engine.
Some guys have completely removed their timing belt covers.

Sealing it up is still a good idea though.
You don't want crap on your timing belt.
 
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I doubt it.
The covers are just to keep dirt and water from contaminating the timing belt.
The timing belt is actually an external part of the engine.
Some guys have completely removed their timing belt covers.

Sealing it up is still a good idea though.
You don't want crap on your timing belt.
Yeah especially when just last Saturday I got stuck in the mud at the beginning of my dirt road, trying to go to the store to get milk and smokes
 
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Bend the accordion part of the intake snorkel when you remove it to inspect it.
Mine looked fine but when I bent the tube, a crack opened up that went half way around the tube.

I was getting fuel trim codes when mine was cracked.
These are the codes it first gave me, 660 is gone now. And another one took its place. I'll run it again this evening. Got alot going on it's my day off today
 

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Check the accordion piece of the intake tubing. Take it off and look. Cracks are hard to find with it on the car. Also scan under hood for any cracked hoses and/or dangling ones or something that a hose should be on but isn't.
Drive thank you btw. I appreciate all the help I can get. As far as the hoses, I do have a question for u since u have an mp5, which are very similar under the hood to mine, on the firewall behind the alternator there in a hole that looks like a line should go, but I'm not seeing a hose for it. Or is it where my trim drains?
 
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